Okay, new plan. A telescoping rod that fits on the end of my wrench and has sections about .07 inches long (measured from center of bolt). For every pound of torque I need, I'll pull out a section. So if I need 7 pounds of torque, I pull out seven sections, it takes me to (0.07*7) 0.49 inches. THEN I stand on the end of it, so my center of gravity is at the edge. So the force applied would be 168 pounds, 0.49 inches away from the center of the bolt. So the force moment would be (168lbs * 0.49in * 1/12 ft/in) 6.86 footpounds. This is pretty close, and if I need that extra push, I'll bounce a bit on my toes, or wear my work boots for added weight.

This will be known as the 'Telescoping Daniels Wrench**'. Of course it's weight specific, so if there isn't a model fit for you yet, buy the next size up and either wear some ankle weights, or have a friend stand on it with you.

**Patent pending

 

nice man....lol

 

Found a cheap torque wrench today, so the 'Telescoping Daniels Wrench' will have to be put on hold. If you reserved one you'll be getting your money back, and you'll be the first to hear about them when they go into production!

 

I never go cheap on a torque wrench. The better models can be recalibrated. And if you bought one that "clicks" when the torque spec is reached, don't click it more than twice for each fastener. Also DO NOT give it that extra little umph after it clicks, because then you just took it past the torque spec.

Just a little info.

 

I have two torque wrenches, and plan to get a third. No matter how good they are, torque wrenches aren't accurate over a wide range. It's best to have one for the low end of the range, and another for the high end. I wouldn't expect one that is accurate for the axle bolt to be reliable for the finer stuff. JMHO.

 

Well, when I say cheap, I mean factory clearance stuff. I can't wait to play with it! I definitely plan on getting more. I agree with fridg.

 

Yep, I agree with fridg too. Now I just have to get one that torques below 15 ft/lbs.

 

Remember...."We are not making a Swiss watch here!"

Even a fairly cheap torque wrench is accurate enough for everything on the Honda Rebel......if you torque to the middle of the tolerence range you'll be within the accuracy of a functioning torque wrench.

Yes, in some applications (not on Honda Rebel) your are required by law to have a claibrated torque wrench with high accuracy..........

I have owned and used the same two sears craftsman beam type torque wrenches for over 40 years...........used them on everything............lots of projects and repairs etc........

Never had a bolt or nut come loose..........never had a bolt or stud strip or break.........never has a failure of any kind associated with incorrect torque........

Not to say there is anything wrong with expensive tools........expensive tool are realy nice...........buy the best you can afford........I have never been sorry for buying a good tool, in the long run..........spend the money up fornt and you only cry once..........buy crap and you'll cry again and again....

But for the home mechanic, a really expensive torque wrench isn't a necessity..Just MHO..

Cookie

 

I have one of the heavier duty rdaniels2 torque wrenches. It came with my Honda Rebel and has a sliding handle that adjusts allowing me to apply my full weight to it. I vary my weight depending upon just how many Bananas I have on hand, but 168 Lbs is easy enough to achieve when I am hungry. This makes the 6" mark on the wrench good up to about 84 foot/pounds of torque.

 

... don't want to be pedantic here, but torque is force times distance, so the units should be in.lb or lb.in or in-lb or lb-in etc., not in/lb, which impies inch divided by lb.

... I managed to find inexpensive torque wrenchs for small torque (e.g., for the valve cover etc - a "click" type) and for large (e.g., rear axle nuts - one where the rod bends to indicate deflection) ... together costing south of $100 ... try ASmazon or Google

 

You are correct sir........some even call them pound feet, or pound inches....putting the force first. (but we know that multiplication is commutative)

Cookie

 

I completely agree with you, Philip. My professors would tear me up if I used the wrong unit notation. Keep in mind everyone, in/lb is read inches per pound. Like mi/h is miles per hour.

Proper units lead to accurate dimension analysis, and much less confusion. It bothers me as much as poor grammar.

 

Hey Cagie!

I just wanted to take some time to seriously thank you. A week ago i tried to perform my 600 mile valve adjustment off of the service manual and got so lost i ended up doing more damage than good.

But after walking away from it for a couple of day and then finding this post i can't thank you enough for your easy to follow instructions and mainly your photos. They were so happy and as of today i can say my Abby (2006 Black Honda Rebel 250) is back on the road and sounding better than ever. I can't tell you how helpful your knowledge on the location of the notch on the end of the camshaft was to make sure i knew i was working on the right valves. That's were i went wrong on my first attempt.

If you ever find yourself in Madison, Al you will always have a couch to sleep on and cold one waiting for you at my place.

Semper Fi!
Sam Vega

 

These valves should be adjusted cold also.

 

Did my valve clearance adjustments for the 450 for the first time since owning the bike. Put 1.5K miles on it without having ever touched the valves. The exhaust valves were tight, couldn't even fit a 0.003 in there. Adjust to .005. The intakes were not too bad so didn't really need to adjust much.

Man, did that make a difference. Along with my chain tension adjustment, my 450 seems to have a whole lot more pick up and no more funny backfire noises on deceleration.

 

I just adjusted my valves using this as a refresher (been forever since the last time I have done it). Great post. I am a little concerned that I didn't have any spare nuts or bolts left over so I'm not sure I did it right.

 

Good instructions thanks. My tablet wont let me search the forum but Google will bring up the thread i need. Yall do a great job helping folks like me.

 

Just got done doing my valve adjustment... Very straight forward and simple... Amazed that shops charge what they do for things like this.

 

hi steph

if the 450 is anything like the 250 then the engine and trany use the same oil. the engine oil works both components.

 

Ok I got a ? About this first why is it needful to adjust the valves? And is this something difficult for a very novice m/c wrencher?? Also how do you know if they need adjusted?

 

Ok I got a ? About this first why is it needful to adjust the valves?

The valve lash (clearance between the tappet and valve stem) is needed to allow for full seating on the valves. If the valves don't seat fully, there is leakage of compression, resulting in poor running. Continued operation with poorly seated valves can burn the valve faces and seats.
Normal wear can erode down the seats and faces, causing the lash to be too close.

Sort of like Angina in the human heart, poorly seated valves is a serious matter

And is this something difficult for a very novice m/c wrencher??

It is not difficult but it does require a somewhat light touch.
The saddle and tank is removed, the ignition coils swung out of the way, the valve cover removed and the clearance check, adjusted as needed.
Over torquing the valve cover bolts can and will break them.

Also how do you know if they need adjusted?

The book says to check the clearance at the 600 mile break in service then at 4000 miles and every 400o miles after that. (8K, 12K, 16k, 20k, etc.)

You check them by taking off the valve cover (described above), turning the crank to the timing mark and using a feeler gauge between the tappet and valve stem. If they are too tight or too loose, adjust them in to specification. There is a lock nut and and square tip screw on the tappet. Loosen the lock nut and turn the square tip until the valve is in spec. Hold the quare tip from moving and tighten the lock nut. Check clearance again after tightening the lock nut to make sure it didn't disturb the clearance.
The valve cover gasket is resilient and reusable and should last through many valve checks/adjustments.

 

thanks buickguy not sure I'm comfortable doing that but definitly gonna price shops to find one cheap enough to do it unless someone on here is in Vegas and knows how to do it and I would be happy to pay them this way I can watch and learn

 

BG sums it up well.

You can do it :thumb:

I have done all my work on my bike, save coating the gas tank. Saved me a lot of ca$h (that I"ve added to what I've spent on accessories :lol2. I consider myself intelligent and mechanically inclined, but I do not work on my cars :eek2: I drive Honda's and have had the same auto mechanic for 20 years (2 cars) and we have a great relationship, so no need really.

I would highly recommend getting a Honda or Clymers service manual, a torque wrench, doing your research, using good quality, proper tools, and taking your time. You will find it very rewarding to maintain your bike and the Rebel is a very user friendly bike.

I get out to Vegas 2-3 times a year. Actually just got back, stayed at the Green Valley Ranch in Henderson, nice place!

 

Check back in the first few pages. Zeprider's video is very information.

 

If you set the Rebel up on a swingarm stand or similar, you can check valve clearances quickly without being concerned about the timing marks on the crankshaft by taking advantage of the Rebel's overhead camshaft and 360 degree crankshaft arrangement.

Pull the sparkplugs so the engine will turn over easily, and put the bike in 5th gear so you can use the rear wheel to roll the engine over.


If you don't have a stand, it is not entirely necessary, you can still roll the bike back and forth in your workspace as needed to rotate the engine. Just pull in the clutch to roll the bike backward without turning the engine. Always roll the bike forward to turn over the engine.

Once you have the valve cover off, roll the engine over until the left exhaust valve starts to open (rocker arm goes down) . then roll it very slowly until the rocker arm is all the way down. Don't worry if it starts back up again, that's good enough.
At this point the left exhaust valve is fully open. Now check the clearance on the right exhaust valve. It is in the middle of the cam "base circle" and your clearance check and adjustment if needed will be correct.

repeat the procedure for the left exhaust valve, and then do the intakes in exactly the same way.

 

Ok. I took the tank off (drained the fuel into a fuel carrier). I have the sparkplugs out & the valve cover off the top. Bike is i 5th gear. Question - left exhaust valve - is that the one in the bottom left looking from sitting on the bike?

So when the bottom left one is at the very bottom I check clearances on the bottom right one??? Do I have that right?

I really appreciate the help.
Thanks

============================

 

Yep, that's Zeprider's video, also available at http://www.aboutdean.com/images/subject/rebel/reb_valve.wmv

 

Ok I'm going to attempt this as soon as I get time to let it sit and a torque wrench just watched the video and looks simple enough I even have a square wrench that will fit that adjust bolt so will update how it goes and how she runs after I'm done

 

I haven't visited in awhile. Its valve adjustment time so i thought i would refresh my memory. The forum never disapoints .