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FAQ: Valve Adjustment

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141K views 237 replies 72 participants last post by  SoakedKarma  
I looked through search for awhile, and found nothing. I probably used the wrong terms. I've done it twice so far, using Clymer's directions. The first time was a success, The second less so. I couldn't get a gap to measure in any position.
 
Okay, I'm about to do this again. I did it once about 500 miles after the Dealer did my "warranty" adjustment, and again just a couple hundred miles ago. I used Clymer's instructions both times. The first time was slow because it was my first time, but everything went the way the book said it would. The second time, I couldn't get a gap on any of the valves, so I put the two I had loosened as close as I could get them to match the other two. It runs and sounds good, but I'm really afraid of burning my valves. I have everything open, including a cold beer. I'm going in!
 
I just adjusted again, based on Cagie's concise instructions, and Tom O.'s fine pix. Everything went just as smooth as could be. Three of my valves needed to be loosened up just a hair. I will sleep much better tonight. It took me longer to get the last pillion seat screw into place than it did to do the adjustment.:p
 
I have two torque wrenches, and plan to get a third. No matter how good they are, torque wrenches aren't accurate over a wide range. It's best to have one for the low end of the range, and another for the high end. I wouldn't expect one that is accurate for the axle bolt to be reliable for the finer stuff. JMHO.
 
Sometimes I think they tell you to remove things because they do several operations at once when writing the manuals. Also because there are close clearances between some things. I always remove the gas tank to adjust valve lash or remove the carburetor. Not everyone does according to what I read here.