Loosening the nuts will allow the cable to be removed from the bracket that holds them stationary. Once they are free of the bracket you can twist the cable pulley to get enough slack to slide the barrel ends out of the pulley.

 

If you get the gallon bucket of ChemDip it has a parts basket inside and you just soak the parts in the bucket.

 

One more thing before I go to bed and try this myself. I remember reading somewhere that the directions are the same for the newer generation bikes (mines a 2002) except there's one extra thing. Now for the life of me I can't seem to find this again. Know the post I'm talking about or know the difference yourself?

 

You need to remove the bracket that the side covers bolt to and the carb bolts to the manifold with 2 nuts instead of it being attached by a hose clamp like the 85-87 Rebels.

 

Next loosen the phillips screw on the hose clamps on the front and rear of the carb. See below.

You need to remove the bracket that the side covers bolt to and the carb bolts to the manifold with 2 nuts instead of it being attached by a hose clamp like the 85-87 Rebels.

So, at this step, the screws described are not on the hose clamp but on the manifold(?) and each have a nut and a bracket,(?) right?

Where is the manifold? Right near the Carburetor or in between the hose clamps and the carburetor? Perhaps a part of the carburetor? And I'm sure I could figure out which parts are brackets.

But the brackets have to be removed first, right? From the way their described, it seems like they'd be covering the screws and nuts.

So locate and remove the brackets on the manifold, --> remove nuts --> screws are now accessible and removable. Nothing more, right? Doesn't the Air filter come into play somewhere along the way?

And thank you for your help. I don't know if this seems a little tedious to you, but I appreciate it more than you know.

 

The manifold is number 6. The 2 nuts that have to be removed to get the carb off are the 2 that go through the number 5 gasket.

 

So, I've followed all the steps to get the carburetor removed. While it wiggles I can't get it out. The two nuts (parts 14) that attach the manifold to the carburetor screw onto parts 7. Those screw-like parts are holding the carburetor onto the bike. I can push the carburetor back a little but not enough to get the screws through the holes on the carburetor so remove it. What should I do?

 

The bracket that has to be removed is behind the carb, the side covers bolt to it. Other than the different manifold and this bracket the carb is removed just like in this thread.

 

Hay, sorry guys I haven't been back in a while. I got busy, forgot about things, remembering them from time to time, borrowed a tool from a friend at work (which took two weeks for the guy to remember to bring it to work) and tried and failed because I didn't have a tool to get the idle cables off, forgot again, kept forgetting to ask to borrow the tool at an earlier time than 10:00pm and all kinds of things like that.

Today though I got to work on it again and got as far as removing the nuts from the screws on the manifold. I got one off but couldn't get the other. The bracket that holds the idle / throttle cables blocked the other nut that I need to get off as you can see here;

http://s908.photobucket.com/user/nodomain/media/DSCF0382_zpscf8f071d.jpg.html?filters[user]=138982452&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

the part I'm pointing at is the bracket for anyone like me who doesn't know much. I went to remove the screws that hold it to the carburetor and only succeeded in starting to strip them. I can't get to the nut, also visible in the picture just behind the bracket and above and to the right of the rounded part. (again that's for those like me) But you can kinda see the slightly stripped screws, the cheap pieces of junk. I think I ought to replace them with good ones when I'm done. But any ideas on how to proceed?

 

If you're using a Phillips screwdriver that's part of the problem
these screws look like Phillips but are in fact JIS, with a different profile than a Philips, and using a Phillips with strip them quick
do you have the screwdriver from the factory tool fit? It will be JIS, and should work better
by the way, the link doesn't work, I get an error message

 

You need to go buy an IMPACT SCREWDRIVER if you're going to work on a motorcycle. Get yourself the proper tools then work goes easily, and you don't have to borrow them.

 

Duckster is right on. They don't cost much, and save a lot of stripped fasteners. Impact Screwdriver Set with Case

 

that's true, I got mine for less than $10, and I'm glad to have it
still, a JIS beats all billy hell out of a Phillips on a japanese bike, and works better than most would expect

 

another wall...

Well I bought me an impact screwdriver and used it. It worked on the first screw but only finished stripping the other screw as seen here;

aalthough you can't tell; the top screw is loosened for me but the other one is still as stuck as before and more stripped. what should I do now? I'm gguessing that I should take it to a mechanic to use their big fancy tool that is useful for removing stripped screws, right?

 

When you get it out, I'd replace all the carb screws with stainless allen head screws. That's what I do on the carbs I work on. No more stripped heads, and easy removal.

 

I strongly discourage using an ezy-out in this application. If it wouldn't respond to an impact driver the odds of breaking off the ezy-out, are too high for a novice in my opinion.

There are those no doubt who will not agree.

 

Use a dremel to cut a flat slot and then use the impact driver again with a flat blade. The impact driver should get it out if used properly.

In fact I'd like to have a shot at that stripped one with the impact driver.. I bet it would go.

 

I'm curious as to the need to remove that particular bracket. It's been a while since I took my carburetor out but I seem to recall that I was able to remove those cables without taking that off. If it can be done you will have a lot more success removing those screws if the carb is laying on a work bench than waving around like it is now.

Anybody know for sure?

 

Shen is right, that bracket doesn't need to be removed to remove the carb, the cables just need to be taken loose at that end.

 

I was taught years ago how to removed such a striped screw with a diamond faced (shape not material) chisel. Strike a divot straight into the side of the screw head then lay the point of the chisel into the divot at a right angel and tap the screw in the CCW direction.

 

that works most every time Gyro
however, rmoval of that bracket isn't necessary, as noted by Shen and Mojo, the cable can be removed and re atached without taking the bracket off

 

I Talked to a friend and got his help to remove the screw. he just took a chisle and chipped enough off the side of the screw to remove with a screwdriver. now I'm back at it and gonna see how it goes.

As for the bracket debate; I don't need to remove it to loosen the cabels. I had already done that before getting to it. I need to remove it so I could get to the nut behind the bracket. I couldn't reach it with the rachet.

 

Use an open end or box end wrench to remove the nut holding the carb to the intake manifold then you don't have to remove the cable bracket.

 

You need to open the air box and remove the filter then push the hose that connects the carb to the air box to the inside of the air box.

 

So I removed the air filter and tried to pust the giant hose that connects the carb to the air box. but the hose still doesn't have anymore give than it had before. Am I suppose to just force it?

 

Force the whole hose into the air box.