Getting that blasted carb out

Open air box, pull out air filter, fight that blasted seal and work that big tube into the air box. Push carb back towards air box enough to clear bolts. You did remove that darn bracket attached to the battery box, right? Turn the carb slowly towards the battery side of the bike. Slowly wiggle it out, ya, that is the way, easy, patience, a few choice bad words. . .and I can now remove mine in under 20 minutes. No, I do not have to explain why I got so good at that job.....:whistling:

 

I would like to thank the OP for this thread. I just got the carb off of my bike with very little trouble.

Also props to maggimia56http://www.hondarebelforum.com/members/maggimia56-15195.html for the extra info pertinent to second gen Rebels.

 

:lol2: so, did it take many choice words?

 

ah, okay, that's all I needed. God I love this site. It's more helpful than the entire rest of the Internet.

Maybe some day we could add those red circle to the already posted pictures to make it easier for everyone to see. Most of the time you can spot the parts, but it wouldn't hurt.

One last, slightly off topic question; I'm gonna remove the carburetor because I've encountered the notorious problem Honda rebels have; a gunked up carburetor. I'm gonna soak all the metal parts in the stuff folks recommended (don't remember the name right now) Judging from the strong cautionary warnings everyone gave me saying only soak up the metal parts, not the rubber parts, it sounds like pretty strong stuff. I'm guessing that the rubber parts aren't hard to clean; tooth brush and if necessary dish soap soaking will do the job I think. What should I put the liquid that'll clean the metal up in? Will a plastic tub do it? Or will it eat through that? Perhaps the sink?...

 

You can use some needle nose vice grips to break it loose or you can use a Dremel to cut a slot in the head and use a regular screwdriver or you can drill it and use an EZ out.

 

Pretty sure the site that hosted the pics either folded or started charging for what used to be free. Either way, they ae gone. Might be a YouTube video, but haven't checked.

BigJ founded this forum but hasn't visited in many years.

 

Oh wow ok well I'll check YouTube for a video. Hope you are feeling a bit better after the accident.

 

I'm doing well, thank you.

 

Champion, I'm doin a twin carb now an scratchin the noggin, but this is a great help.
I think I can keep the two connected and be able to pull down as one unit...
Cheers heaps )

 

You should be able to pull them as a unit and not separate them.

 

Yes you can remove both carbs together is tight but doable

 

Thanks guys, yeah it all came out as one unit - surprisingly easy with a little wd40...

I had a look at the step by step of carb disassembly - extremely helpful, but it seems my carbs are fairly dissimilar, even though they are the same brand... So now I wonder if the pull down process is the same - sorry but I'm still havin trouble getting images up...

 

Choke is stuck...

I can't remove the brass piece under the spring. It is stuck in the carburetor. It looks like a piece of the rubber that secures the choke to the carburetor is stuck in there within. I don't want to give it a hard tug, any suggestions? :banghead:

 

Try some penetrating oil and let it soak over night.

 

Thanks for the response Mojo. I did finally get the choke to detach, but it turns out the rubber threads broke off (the part that holds spring and brass piece)...s@&$!!! Does anyone know what the piece is called? I wouldn't know how to search for the piece to buy another one, and without it the choke will not stay attached to carburetor. I hope this makes sense.

 

Here's the parts drawing.
Part 18.

018 CAP, CABLE SEALING
16148-KB1-921 001 $12.98

 

Hey BuickGuy, where do you retrieve all those great schematics?

Thanks.

 

Thanks for the response. I was able to get it from Partzilla for $8.57+$1.75 shipping.

 

What about newer models that have a solid piece bolted to the engine instead of a hose? I am having trouble getting it back far enough to come off the bolts.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App

 

Thanks so much mag! Yea I ran my tank empty (new bike, getting used to it) already have an in-line filter on so I don't have to do this again.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App

 

Got it off, cleaned and back on. As far as I can tell I got it fixed, fairly certain the main jet was clogged because it would stall out at 45-55 and now it will go through 60 with no fuss.

 

It was actually pretty smooth. I had read the about pushing the rubber into the airbox so with just some wiggling it was out in under 5 minutes.

It helped having the correct tools handy.

 

This stuff needs little yellow arrows so folks like me, with no experience know which ones are being removed.

 

Before you start, follow the instruction in the link below to remove the seats and then the gas tank.

Next you will need to loosen the 10mm nuts on the idle and the throttle cables. See below.

Next remove the idle and throttle cable from the cable guide. See below.

This seems to be the only step I can't quite figure out. It might be a dumb question, but where are the 10mm nuts on the idle and the throttle cables? I just don't wanna screw it up. And, in advance, I don't know the actual terms for the parts, just remember that everyone started somewhere.

Following the wire cables that surround the rounded part, it looks like somewhere between where the wires ends and the rubber tubes begin. I'm thinking it's the first nuts you'll encounter along that path. Will loosing those expose all that threading (or the screw-looking parts without a head in case that's wrong) shown in the second picture?

 

They are the nut on the cable adjustment.

 

They're the rascels at the very tip of the guy's finger. You loosten them so you can slide the cable shields out of the bracket. Then you twist the cable around so you can slide the barrel ends out of the throttle actuator or whatever that weird pulley like thingamajig-bob is called.

 

so loosing those bottom two nuts will allow the threaded portion to slide more out of the rubber tubs and all that noise above 'em, which gives you the slack you need to pop the ends outta the, cable guide, or the rounded part, right?

------10th post------
Now I'm a "cool newbie"