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Here's another link with parts diagram...
1986 Honda CMX250C A LEFT CRANKCASE COVER | Ron Ayers

Sorry, cant help you with the PDF... i had to go out and buy a manual, couldnt find one for download.

Just to add a little more to the conversation:
Completed the starter clutch rebuild last night. Not too terribly complicated but a couple of key things worth noting.
I didn't have either the flywheel holder or 'rotor puller' as they call it. I assumed I would be able to put the bike in gear and have my girlfriend hold the rear brake while I loosen the Flywheel bolt, but not so much.

Not sure if the clutch on her bike is just weak, or if the clutch on the 250 just cant really hold that much power, but the clutch just slipped when I tried this. I wound up just using a pneumatic impact to remove it, piece of cake... When time to bolt it back and torque it down I used a large rubber strap wrench around the flywheel to hold it and had my girlfriend pull the Tq wrench till it clicked. Kind of a pain, but it worked.

On the flywheel removal... It appears as though if you had the proper size bolt you could just thread it into the flywheel and push it off of the crankshaft. Unfortunately however I didnt have an assortment of large bolts to play with, so I rented one of the 3 pronged jaw pullers from Auto Zone. I put the flywheel bolt back into the crankshaft and threaded it down with just about a 1/8" gap, then used the bolt head for the jaw puller to press against. This worked for removing the flywheel but I was amazed at how much pressure it took to break it loose.

When I got things tore down I was quite surprised at what I had found... the springs were badly worn as I had expected, after all the bike is nearly 30 years old. BUT... one of the spring caps had actually had the cap end break off... so the spring itself was protruding through the cap and pushing on the roller... needless to say this roller wasn't engaging properly....
Anyway... just a little more info for what its worth...
 
Having the correct tools is a must when removing the fly wheel, a three prong puller can very easily warp the fly wheel rendering in useless. If the transmission is placed in gear with the brakes locked to remove the fly wheel bolt (or the clutch nut for that matter) the transmission can easily be busted. If you think not just ask those who have done it -- like me.
 
No argument about the right tool for the job... but I have done a lot of these in the past on much bigger engines and never had a problem with the brakes / clutch / transmission being able to hold the crankshaft while you apply 43 ftlbs of tq... And unfortunately none of the parts stores had the tools to buy / rent. (I tried)

But, I guess that's the difference in a transmission which handles 135ftlbs of tq and this little 250. I'm glad the clutch slipped and I didn't break something.

Just out of curiosity, what did you break?
 
Jutah, please don't get me wrong I am in no way putting you down nor the way the bike was disassembled. I am only trying to prevent some of our beloved newbies from braking their bike beyond their capability of repairing it.
To answer your question of what did I brake, I broke one of the clutch dogs, and I am not the only forum member that has done this.
 
No worries at all old school... I didn't take offense...
I read the forums to learn from others mistakes so as not to make my own, and to gain knowledge from others who have been there... Also to share stuff I find.
And I'll be the first to admit I don't know 'everything'.

I was pretty shocked that the clutch couldn't hold against me trying to break that bolt loose though, it will probably be the next thing I dig into.

I'm pretty surprised the dogs are breaking, would not have expected that!

Here's the tear down from my big cruiser, when I built a race engine for it and had the gears 'race cut' :)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb277/Ravenalx/Richs bike and mods/DSC06867.jpg

 
Hi everyone,
Just had a quick question for anyone who might know the answer.
I was riding my Honda Rebel 250 yesterday after an oil change going about 55-60ish when i noticed it started loosing power. i did not throttle down but the bike was loosing power at an increasing rate. When i pulled to the side of the rode and tried to take off again nothing happened. I can put the bike in first gear release the clutch and the bike acts like it is still in neutral. The bike does not lurch forward and die it just ideals. so i am thinking that the clutch is not engaging. Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you for your help.
 
Welcome to the forum gozaj, when the clutch starts going out the engine will rev but the bike will loose speed and this is most noticeable in the higher gears first. Make sure you have the proper clutch adjustment, the clutch lever should pull back about 1/2 inch before any resistance is felt.
 
Sorry, starter clutch issue. 1999 250 starter spins, but doesn't engage the engine, makes a grinding noise. I have ordered the three springs, and may need to order more parts once I break it down, but I'm lacking step by step instructions. I thought I was replying on the first page of the thread where a PDF file is mentioned. My bad, and thanks!
 
Due to copyright restrictions, we can't post a lot of that type info on the open forum. If someone has that info they may be able to share it. Having a copy of the Honda service manual is a good investment as it will pay for itself the first time you need it. I do not recommend the Haynes manual for any rebel after the 1987 model as they didn't upgrade for the slight changes between the first (1985-87) and second (1996-2016) generation rebel 250s.

That said, here is a diagram of the starter clutch : https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053e036f870021c54be0312/starting-clutch

You can find diagrams of the entire bike there.
 
Anyone have any more info on replacing a 1986 450 starter clutch? Have Clymers which doesn't show much, any help is appreciated bought a new starter clutch (yes a new one still existed), springs, rollers and caps. Want to tackle the rebuild in the next month.
 
The 450 requires a complete engine teardown to get at the starter clutch; hence there is a lot to it. It involves taking the top off your engine and splitting the crankcases.
 
I have no problem with putting in the work, its why I bought the bike. First project and I wanted to tear it down. Just looking for any extra info I can before tackling it. Have the Service Manual which has some info and Clymers which has limited info. Thanks for the reply!
 
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