I'm wondering if the clutch plates froze up during its many years of storage. Does it slip in all gears or more in specific gears?

 

Interesting comment, but the comment below makes me think it is the synthetic oil. So I'll try straight mineral-based and see if that does the trick. thx, Woodinhills

 

Looks like the synthetic oil has clamed another rebel clutch . That is why I never use it on any of my bikes

 

Interesting. I have had 10 biles, big ones mostly, always used stnthetic, never a problem. But I will try your suggesti

 

Am I correct in assuming your other bikes have a wet clutch, like the Rebel's? Did you use motorcycle specific synthetic oil in the Rebel? Pretty sure you're going to have to replace the fiber clutch plates. Once that is done, suggest you use conventional oil, such as Shell Rotella 15W-40 or Castrol 10W-40 in the Rebel.

 

All of my other bikes, big and small, had wet clutches. I did use motorcycle specific 10/40. Why the oil IN THIS CASE messed up the clutch on what is supposed to be an easy and inexpensive machine is beyond my reasoning. I feel my wallet emptying already....

 

Maybe the PO put in the wrong oil or as Flitecontrol said, the plates froze together in storage. Or maybe the PO burned up the clutch. Either way it sounds like you'll need to dismantle the clutch and find out what happened. In general, synthethic oils with the proper rating for wet clutches should not be a problem. It seems from what I've read that just changing the oil after a problem has developed with the wrong oil is not sufficient to clean the clutch disks. You maybe able to fix this for the price of a gasket, some mineral spirits, and a few hours of your time.

 

Since the OP posted all the different sickles he's owned, I'm doubting he burned up the clutch. Maybe the P.O. did, or the storage did it in. Rotella 15W-40 for the win (it is T3 or T4 now?). I don't think replacing all the clutch plates will suck your wallet too dry … that is if you do the clutch yourself. Shouldn't be too difficult.

As for slipping the clutch, I hardly need any revving, and can have my clutch fully engaged by the time my rear tire arrives where my front tire was stopped. It is an adequate clutch when in good shape.

 

Could adjusting the clutch cable help slippage if the plates are worn? Even temporarily?

 

Normally slipping is caused by using the wrong oil. Hopefully you've never used anything with a viscosity below 10W/40. Most of those (except for motorcycle specific oils), contain modifiers which will make even a new clutch slip terribly.

You do need to adjust the clutch as it wears since it is a cable clutch & not hydraulic.