Attached a pic of the mockup, the green is the main support bars from round stock, there will be flat stock providing bracing for the skin where needed.

 

opcorn: Can't wait to see your progress!

 

Remember you'll need air flow to the engine for cooling.

 

me tooooooooooooo

 

if you want this protection, why don't you get a car.

 

The point is streamlining for aerodynamics. It will offer better mileage and higher top speed if its done well.

 

Exactly my point BuickGuy. I want to do more with less. Craig had a Stock Honda Helix 250 that he converted to drive 70mph into a 30mph headwind and still got 68mpg. My rebel already gets 75/80mpg [not quite so much at 70mph] All I have to do is try to find a way to duct the dirty air coming up behind the front tire. to cool the engine, being partly sucked up by vacuum from the rotational air of the back tire venting into the pocket of air behind the streamliner fairing to pop the drag bubble unless I use a full length tail where I will bleed it out of the skin evenly [effectively making the layering of skin its own vents to create a suction effect pulling the bike forward in the wind [if even by a completely negligible amount it is a aerodynamically clean disbursement method.

In the winter I would like to be able to suck some of the heated vent air into the cabin to heat it similar to how a car heater works, but the engine is the heater core and there is no oil.

In the summer I would like to experiment with different ways to cool the cabin off. Including making it a convertible or addingvents into the cabin as well allowing them to escape into the cabin with the engine air. The exhaust is vented outside the cabin assembly. I also want to install a catalytic converter core to my exhaust to reduce pipe emissions and laminate the air flow exiting the vehicle, but that might not be until later.

I want to cover the initial prototype in plastic to see and easily change the aerodynamic effects the body has on the air mass. The final build will either be aluminum flashing or a fiberglass covered extruded insulation frame [the insulation would help maintain cabin temperature, The aluminum flashing can be covered with spray foam on the inside to provide the same insulation. So it really depends on taste.

As for paint I was thinking one of those Super Mario world Banzai Bills with Glass bead reflective paint over the entire thing to optimize visibility to other drivers.(if you can use the moon's reflection to "glow in the dark" to cagers, why not right?)

Banzai Bill:

 

I went ahead and mocked up the paint because why not right? I was thinking matte black chalkboard paint [already tested on my car, worked awesome] for the banzai bill and gloss rattle can for the rest. Clear coat and add reflective bead coating. Voila! schweet and visible streamlined road vehicle that can carry enough equipment to camp and eat good food [fast food gives me rank gas, which I guess in theory could be pumped into the air intake to aid in combustion, but it's not worth the smell.]

 

Here is a quick view at night of the streamliner fairing to demonstrate visibility in the rear view mirror. The white part is the part coated with reflective glass beads. Although, I could paint the reflective part white to add to the visibility.

 

I think i've seen photos of something very similar already in use over in England.

 

yep, but with a rebel heart that I know will run forever

 

I'm very excited to see what you're cooking up here.

 

What about side winds or a passing big rig??? Please try not to get hurt!

 

Here is the original blog detailing Craig building the "Last Vetter Fairing"
Last Vetter Fairing


I am going to compensate for side winds by adding weight lower to the ground and shaping the body to effectively push some of the wind under the body.

Craig found that side winds were reduced when there was increased weight lower to the ground. If you have a few hours to kill and you have even the slightest interest in this stuff I would highly recommend reading through the 60 pages or so that he has written up as they detail his attempts at streamlining. I have learned from his experience and am going to use it when building my fairing.

When I finish, you can bet your britches that I will be at the next fuel economy challenge repping the Honda Rebel Forum! I don't plan on taking first [there are diesels in this competition...ooh what I wouldn't do for a diesel bike. *TimTaylorGrunt]

 

Good luck with your design; I hope all goes well.

 

Cool! I hope you succeed.

 

I just read this article, which explained in detail how a guy got 200+ mpg on his 125cc motorcycle. Hopefully it'll give you some good ideas, and if not, it's still a pretty good read

 

Adding any kind of weight as pure ballast down low will be self-defeating for a motor vehicle. Getting the unavoidable weight down low is a laudable goal.
Getting your total height down low will also go a long way toward reducing the effects of crosswinds.
The front end geometry of most stock bikes will self correct for side gusts of wind by steering the front end away from the gust resulting in a lean into wind.

 

It looks pretty narrow at the bottom, and the feet are positioned way forward. I wonder how comfortable/safe it is to drop a foot at a red light?

 

Different angle. Cool article!