Dang, crazy you had such a hard time getting that thing off. Good to see you got it though. :thumb:

 

Alright, so the seal finally came in. (so did a few other things)

I've still gotta wait though. Unfortunately my flywheel's back parts (clutch plate? something? the thing that had pins in it) is damaged beyond repair so I had to order replacements for that, but I chose eBay rather than Bike Bandit for it, so I should hopefully have things going on Wednesday.

It's back in my garage, rather than my friend's garage, so she has that space back. I haven't really touched it since bringing it home though. I'm hoping to pull the seal tomorrow and get to cleaning my oil screen, tomorrow.

 

I'm looking forward to the video of you riding a few victory laps on that thing!

 

too bad I can't do a victory wheelie, lol. Maybe if I stood on the rear pegs?

 

Youtube has numerous videos of Rebel wheelies. Maybe put a few miles on it first though, before starting your next repair thread.:whistling:

 

Yeah I've seen those, lots of modded bikes doing it though...

it'd be a good way to check the locktite!

 

The Rebel can do a wheelie but it's not going to do one popping the clutch and relying on just power from the motor to get the wheel off the ground. It's going to take a lot of rider input. You'll have to get your weight as far back on the bike as possible and yank up on the bars while you pop the clutch. But it's not made for that kind of treatment and there is a good chance you'll break something on the bike, plus your body if you don't know what you're doing.

 

Oh I'm not actually gonna do one. I'll leave that to someone else!

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It looked to me from the videos that it can be done by winding it out to 6K or so before letting off on the clutch. Something I forgot to do before I replaced the clutch on mine. Maybe next time. :whistling:

 

You could do the clutch replacement any time after you do your wheelie..:lol2:
No need to wait.

 

Soooo slight problem here. Apparently the 3 jaw puller damaged the threads inside the crankshaft. I went to Home Depot for a tap, but they didn't have the right size. I tried to "make" one with a bolt (10mmx 1.25)so it's at least the right size.

Tomorrow I'm hoping to run out to Mid State Bolt and Screw and get a REAL tap for it, hopefully I can repair these threads!

It was hard enough to get the flywheel off, now I can't get the new one on! lol

 

About the only thing you haven't run into so far is a swarm of rabid locusts hiding somewhere in that thing. I really hope to see the video of you riding that thing soon!:banghead:

 

I'd get out the electric flyswatter in that case! hahaha I have the tool for that job!!

 

Glad to hear that you stay prepared. Don't let your guard down!

 

The Blues Brothers - Jake's Excuses - YouTube

 

lol sparkman ---

Anyways last night I had a brief moment of victory - I used a 10mm x 1.25 tap to get my threads sorted out (I hope) and was able to torque down my flywheel bolt.

Then I saw that the plate that goes behind my flywheel was still on the floor by my foot.

:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
Will I ever cease to cause more problems for myself? The threading issue was caused by the 3 jaw puller, and this was caused by my negligence.
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

Working most of the day today, then home to take it all apart. I'm gonna get it on video.

Also I'm going to try and remember to pick up a chisel in case the normal way of removing flywheels doesn't work on this one. It went on kinda hard. I had to use the rubber mallet to get it seated, and it still wobbled.

I'm also picking up a 6 pack. Woooo

 

Ouch.. Sounds like your crank taper is distorted. it should just slip into place with no wobble.
If it has a noticable wobble, you may well have clearance issues of the rotor to the stator of your alternator. there is a very small airgap between the magnets in the flywheel and the poles of the stator.
You should trial fit the sidecover and turn the engine over gently by hand (take the plugs out) to make sure there is no rubbing.

 

Thanks for the warning! It's not wobbling with the bolt in place btw

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Well the good news is that it should come off again real easy this time.. Even moreso if the taper is not perfect. You will probably still need your puller, but a couple of raps with the hammer should loosen it.

 

Spray it with penetrating oil and let it set for a while and then (if you didn't glue it on . . . :whistling you should get to see how it was supposed to go.

 

You mean I *wasn't* supposed to slather the crank with JB Weld before I put it back on?

I tried threading the puller in it last night and it didn't wanna go. The '85 didn't have different threads than the '86 did it? I sure hope not...

Tonight will tell!

 

Puller I bought says its good for ALL rebels, and then some.

 

If you're using the puller from the last go round odds are it's wrecked.

 

Good to know! I might have to clean up the threads on mine. I'm using a "trimmed" puller, lol. Stripped threads on a flywheel puller - my fix | Charlie's Broken Bike Charlie's Broken Bike

So the threads are new on the part that I'm using anyways. That was some SOFT metal. Compared to the flywheel anyways. I doubt the dremel will cut through it with the ease that the die cutter did.

 

You may be able to resurrect your puller, but with all the beating and bashing and heat, that soft metal is probably distorted all over.