There is a metric bolt (17mm I beleive) that you use to pry the flywheel off with. Hold it with a good strap wrench.

 

Ahhhh...that is why the inside of the flywheel is threaded. THanks cagie. Regards, Chef

 

Don't you just thread the puller into the flywheel then hit it with a hammer?
On the 450 I had to use an old oil filter bolt with another bolt inside to actually push the flywheel off. It was a pain but finally popped off with some drama.

 

Don't you just thread the puller into the flywheel then hit it with a hammer?

Uhn, no... the flywheel is threaded and is pressed onto the crankshaft. You thread a "bolt" and push it off the shaft. You risk mangling the key if you hit it with a hammer or try to twist it off.

I suppose you could use a three fingered puller with a bolt smaller than the threaded flywheel. The jaws would have to hook behind the flywheel for the right leverage... seems like someone else here had used one of those to get the flywheel off...

 

I tried the wheel puller with 1/4 inch threaded rod thru the holes that were 180 degress apart with a nut behind and an OEM wheel puller. I couldn't get enof leverage on it but I wasn't using a strap wrench to keep the wheel from turning. Was my first try but I'm going to harbor freight tomorrow to pick up a strap wrench and the hardware store to get a 16mm bolt to try the (somewhat bastardized) Honda way. I think the standard M16 bolt is 1.5 pitch. If not I'll order one off of ebay. Wish me luck. Regards, Chef

 

I also need to get my flywheel off, as I am about to remove the stator to have it rewound. I haven't had the cover off yet, I was hoping it could be done without some special $100+ Honda tool.

 

Hey Desperado, are you having it rewound for any special reason? You know like boosted amperage output or something.

 

It completely failed, no output at all. I'm having it rewound by a company called Tim Parrot Enterprises. They seem to have a good reputation. I also found what I hope is a good used regulator/rectifier. I don't know if mine is bad or not, as there seems to be no accurate way to test them. That is also a part than can be partially bad, still working, but not the way it should. I did not inquire about extra output, that would be nice, but probably not possible. I'll ask them anyway.

 

Oh sorry, I didn't know yours was bad. Extra output would be really nice!
If they can get extra output please let us know. I, for one can use all the lecetricity the Rebel can give.
I've also heard the later rectifier/regulator (is it '02 and up?) is set to a higher point than previous model for the added draw from the H4 headlight.

 

Tim Parrot rebuilds stators to better than factory specs because he uses top quality materials. Good move on getting one from him. And he's much cheaper than even a crappy new Chinese made stator (read Ricks stators here). Oh, did I mention you shouldn't buy stators or R/R from Rick?

 

Most stators go bad from shorting to ground in my experience with boat motors and a few bikes. Sometimes you'll get an open. If you use the troubleshooting chart "sticky'd" to the top of the wrenching forum you can troubleshoot one with a multi meter. That chart has saved me a lot of time troubleshooting problems by process of elimination. BTW I'm going to the hardware store tomorrow to get a 16mm bolt to do the flywheel removal. According to the ebay guys ad they are 16mmx1.5 pitch bolts. I think I can get a grade 8 bolt that will work with an impact wrench a whole lot cheaper than the 10 bucks advertised. Regards, Chef

 

The '01's and up have the newer regulators. The voltage is up to something like 14.5 volts or so, instead of 13.5 volts. There is no issue with putting a newer regulator on an older bike, actually would be better. It doesn't put out any more amperage, just raises the voltage a bit.

 

Still, a few extra watts out of the Rebel system sure doesn't hurt!

 

You don't need to pull the flywheel to access the stator it is mounted to the side cover. When you remove the side cover you will see it.

 

Got my 16mm bolt today. Will rig up a strap wrench tomorrow and give it a whirl. Regards, Chef

 

Got it pulled!

I decided to give it a go today and instead of going out and buying a strap wrench I used a cargo strap and some of that packing foam wrap for a non slip grip. I also de-burred and greased the bolt end to keep from galling the crankshaft end. It worked like a charm. I know in the picture the foam and strap looks like it is slippng off. At this point the flywheel was already loose when I decided to take a picture for this thread. Regards, Chef

 

I decided to give it a go today and instead of going out and buying a strap wrench I used a cargo strap and some of that packing foam wrap for a non slip grip. I also de-burred and greased the bolt end to keep from galling the crankshaft end. It worked like a charm. I know in the picture the foam and strap looks like it is slippng off. At this point the flywheel was already loose when I decided to take a picture for this thread. Regards, Chef

This is basically what I tried (no foam, and I looped the strap through the cinch and hooked it to the frame) -- I still couldn't get it to budge. (a picture is attached, it's right before I put the hook visible around the frame at the bottom and gave it a whirl)

I've been looking everywhere for how I can get that stupid flywheel bolt off, but every time I search for removing a flywheel it's workarounds for not using a flywheel puller (which I have!). Youtube has been less helpful than usual.

I saw the complete disassembly of a flywheel here: We demonstrate the proper way to remove a flywheel from a 2001 Honda CBR929RR Fireblade - YouTube -- which I thought would be helpful. Did he just leave the thing in gear? I'm worried that my '86 won't have a transmission left if I do that.

I went to Home Depot got some parts. I put two small screws through the flywheel's holes in the back, and a (closet part?) bar across the two screws, after drilling that out a bit, and it was wedged against the highway bar. The metal bar failed, so I'll take that back out tomorrow, but I'm really starting to wonder here - how does everyone else get theirs off? (another picture is attached)

(yes, I know it's a really old thread but it's so close to what I'm needing to do I figured it'd be better to just attach to this one)

 

16 mm

Well thanks for taking the time for the picture Chef. Back when I had the oil seal mishap I pulled mine with a 3 jaw puller and an oil filter strap around the jaws and the flywheel. The center of the puller resting on the bolt that holds the flywheel, of course loosened and backed out a 1/4" to 1/2" to let the flywheel free, but not take off like a bat.

Did your's poped off like a bat using the 16mm bolt?

I wanted to ask you what is the pitch on that 16 mm bolt.

It would be handy to just throw it in the saddlebag, 'cuz you never know when or where you are going to need it, and of course is alot more compact than a 3 jaw.

TIA

 

I used a M16x1.5 bolt. There is an eBay seller that has them but I think with shipping they are around $10. I thought about using an impact wrench but first tried my heavy duty socket bar. The wheel just eased off the shaft without any drama. It couldn't have been any easier. Regards, Chef

 

Thank you sir!

 

Glad to help Twister. BTW, I think you could get away with a much shorter bolt if you are gonna carry one in your road bag. A 50mm or 2" long bolt would be plenty to get the wheel off. I just happened to have that long bolt in my bolt box. I've got a sack full of shorter ones if you need one and your local hardware can't get it for you. Shoot me a PM and pay postage and its yours. Regards, Chef

 

I will be removing the flywheel this weekend . Be using a strap wrench and a bolt/socket.
My question; on the flywheel, to remove it. I will turn the bolt/socket counter-clock wise, Yes?

 

Bump, bump

Just want to make sure

 

Yes, lefty loosy, righty tighty...

 

I got a question...?
On the 250 does the tool have right handed threads then as it turns in it pulls the flywheel off as it bottoms out in the crank?
Then to reinstall you let the original bolt push it back on the crank?

 

On 86 250 it is right hand bolt and from looking at other listed tools so is the later model, right turn to remove the flywheel. I used a soft brass hammer to seat the flywheel back on and finished tightening with the flywheel bolt and washer with blue loctite. Be careful not to bang too hard on the crankshaft end, you can bugger up the internal bearings. Regards, Chef

 

I'm currently doing a lower end rebuild on my 86. To pull the alternator I tried using a jaw puller, and simply couldn't get the D@$! thing off (operator error entirely plausible mind you). Broke down and bought the 15 dollar Honda certified puller. (Exactly what you have just in a nifty Honda package!) and within 5 minutes stripped and mushroom headed the bolt/puller. I continued with my engine removal, the whole engine is out. Now the real question! How do I get the puller out?

 

The vid should be entitled "we demonstrate the improper way" . . .

You don't use the puller-bolt to "Jack" the flywheel free. You draw the bolt down tight then strike the head straight on like a nail with a hammer to shock the flywheel free. You then tighten up the bolt again. In most instances the flywheel will almost literally fall free. If not and the bolt gets tight re-shock. I recommend against using loc-tight in most instances as it only serves to make the job more difficult next time.

 

You don't use the puller-bolt to "Jack" the flywheel free. You draw the bolt down tight then strike the head straight on like a nail with a hammer to shock the flywheel free. You then tighten up the bolt again. In most instances the flywheel will almost literally fall free. If not and the bolt gets tight re-shock. I recommend against using loc-tight in most instances as it only serves to make the job more difficult next time.

I couldn't have said it better! You need to give the bolt a hit with a hammer. Not the best tool for the job, but it will serve it's purpose, and that is to give it a good shock. It's the impact that will break it loose.

 

I think that's further in than I watched. I'm just at the part of getting the nut off but I can't seem to hold the flywheel right enough. I tried bolts and a cheap bar last night.

Just bent the bar up.

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