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Need Help, Flywheel Removal 86 CMX250

52K views 199 replies 23 participants last post by  charlieinflint  
#1 ·
I am trying to remove the flywheel from the 86 250 project motor because the starter clutch needs attention. I have 2 different wheel pullers but they won't fit properly, I am having to rig up some 1/4 inch all thread rod to go thru the holes in the bottom of the wheel. I'm assuming the wheel is a slip on with a key...is this correct? I was trying to put some heat on the shaft but I'm afraid I'm going to melt the plastic around the magnets. Anyone got any advice on this? I have the manual and it isn't any help it just suggests a honda flywheel removal tool which I don't have. I'm surprised but my Clymers manual doesn't have any info at all that I can find. Regards, Chef
 
#69 ·
Until you get the glue to loosten I doubt any knocking or thrashing is going to do any good. You're talking about super-superglue if it's red thread locker and epoxy if it's J&B and in a taper fit. Too much beating and banging and you're going to be picking whole ball's off your drain plug.
 
#72 ·
But who wins? :confused: I'm really curious about the copious quantities of red locktite. I can think of a couple reasons anyone would use that.

"It was loose at one point, so let's put this stuff in there so that doesn't happen again."
"It doesn't really tighten like it used to, so let's just use some of this."
"If I can get these broken parts to hang together long enough to reassemble, I may be able to sell this fish and chips"
 
#73 ·
Alright I torched it for a while. Write a bit of smoke was coming up so it was time for a try
View attachment 16569
After backing it out, I was happy to see I still had threads on the puller.
View attachment 16577

But I found out what the smoke was from...the missing magnet



So I'm gonna get it hotter and try again. Meanwhile, I'm glad duckster's flywheel is headed my way!
Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#74 ·
The quicker you can heat the hub, the better. You want to expand the flywheel before the crankshaft expands.
 
#76 ·
just sayin' uniform heat on the flywheel and the crankshaft doesn't help as much as shock heat on the flywheel before the crank has a chance to get hot and expand. you're looking for the differential expansion.
 
#77 ·
Alright, I tried it with just heating the outer 'round-the-shaft bit of the flywheel, and then tried with some more general heat, and none of it was successful so far.

The only success I've had is melting the plastic casing of the magnets. They're nasty.

I don't have a cutting torch...but I was planning on removing the magnets tomorrow and taking the dremel to it. If I can cut into it just a little bit, maybe it'll loosen up?

I'm pretty far outta my element at this point. I'm used to repairs going just a little wrong, not way out in left field.
 
#79 ·
Yep, and I can't seem to find his email from when I bought the thing... I was gonna give him a call, lol. The only reason why I bought it was that it was cheap and that I knew it could go fast - it was in the impound lot for evading police, lol.



So, my next thoughts involve a pry bar to go from the other end of the flywheel. It looks like it's further out than it used to be, but at this point I don't know.

But I've been reading around here and around the rest of the internet, and here's some other stuff I think I'm gonna give a go(not sure if this quoting from other threads is gonna work...)

My flywheel was extremely difficult to remove. If you haven't already, try rapping on the back side of the flywheel with a piece of wood between the hammer and flywheel. When mine finally let go, it flew about 18 inches because of the amount of force. Think it may have stripped some of the threads on the puller.
Also this:

I used a cheater bar on the strap while I used a breaker bar on the puller. Don't do as I did as far as removing the flywheel bolt, It will make the flywheel, well.. Fly! Instead loosen it a good 1/8" to 1/4" and put the center of the puller on top of it, so it will "catch" and stop the flywheel and your clutch parts don't end up everywhere! (like mine)
Image

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I'm not so much caring about my flywheel flying, since it's melted and all, but the pictures of the pullers OEM/2 Ton 2 or 3 jaw puller (27011) | Jaw Attachment Puller | AutoZone.com or OEM/2 or 3 jaw gear puller (27078) | Jaw Attachment Puller | AutoZone.com that were linked seem to be the next step.

Otherwise I think I'll pull the engine and then knock it like you mentioned previously, flite. Or I might be able to rig something up with it still in there, and since that doesn't involve a trip to autozone, I'm cool with it. lol.
 
#80 ·
And this seems like it would be useful...

rebman, as Buick said, that hole is supposed to be there. No need to take it in as long as you don't mind a few hours of (relatively) easy work. Unless your bike is an '07, in which case you should call a dealer with your VIN. The '07s had a recall about this and they may fix it for you for free.

OTHERWISE, do a google search for "cmx250 service manual" and use the scribd (no relation) link. Follow pages 10-1 through 10-3 to remove the cover and fly wheel. The hardest part in all this is getting that flywheel off. I highly recommend using Autozone's loan-a-tool service for this. Tell them you want the "5-ton jaw puller" Great Neck/10 in. jaw 5 Ton puller (2707:cool: | Jaw Attachment Puller | AutoZone.com, you'll have to leave like a $50 fully refundable deposit. You need the 5-ton, the 3-ton is too small, I had to go back and swap them. Also, if you don't already have one, buy a rubber strap wrench OEM/2 pcs. aluminum body strap wrench (25376) | Oil Filter Wrench | AutoZone.com Don't forget to buy the wrench, I wasted a good amount of time trying other things because I forgot it. You're going to use the strap wrench in place of the "flywheel holder" in the manual, and the jaw puller in place of the "rotor puller". You don't actually have to remove the stator, you can just let the case cover hang to side if you're careful about it. Even with the strap wrench holding the flywheel in place, you may still need a "leverage enhancer" to break that nut lose. You may need to wrap the strap wrench around the jaws of the puller to hold the jaws together on that step, as the back of the flywheel is curved and the jaws want to slip off. Remove the stator driven sprocket.

You will probably have a black seal come off the shaft behind the sprocket, note which direction it faces, because if I recall it will only go back in properly one way. That little guy is the source of all our trouble. Give it a cleaning and inspect it. It's probably in good shape and just popped out (rather than the seal is shot and tore out). Push it back on and into its hole. You should feel it snap in and then be unable to (easily) get it back out. Pick back up on page 10-8 to reinstall everything. As long as you didn't completely destroy the paper gasket when removing the case cover you won't need to replace it, a few tears are probably ok as long as it all fits back together when you put the case back on. The gasket is for vibration dampening/spacing, it's not there to seal oil in. Careful with the stator cables. Now's also a good time to clean the gunk off the front chain sprocket area. Mine had so much crud from the PO that cleaning my chain was useless because it just ran through more crud.

Next, think about why it happened to begin with. The usual suspects are air filter, full puke tube, and over filling oil (me). Check the air filter and puke tube, and if they are good and clear then it was probably oil. Of course, checking your oil now won't tell you that, you lost so much. Correct is 1.6 qts. I now put in about 1.5 qts, just to get it about midline of the cross hatch, just because I'm now so worried about over filling it. Also, correct oil checking is to run the bike a few minutes, cut it off, rest (don't screw it in) the gauge on the threads (after wiping it clean of course) and level the bike for like 30 seconds.

I guess I really should take pictures if I ever have to do this again.

dragon, you keep saying gasket. Your bf is right that it almost certainly isn't the gaskets, they aren't sealing any oil. I'm not sure about the starter driven seal, but it's worth a shot if you've already checked the stater driven seal, assuming of course that you didn't add an r and meant stater to begin with, in which case, yes, that seal =P

I hope that helped at least one of you guys.
 
#81 ·
I swear you are heating in the wrong place. You want to blow the torch in the hole where the jack bolt goes in for a bit and then on the boss around the hole and then hit it as hard and fast as you can with whatever wrench you have. Heat where you appear to be directing it is a waste of natural resources. You can't apply enough heat fast enough to get any descent differential expansion effect with anything less than an oxi/acetylene with a heater tip and it only lasts for seconds. What you are trying to do with the tools you have is get the glue to soften. It's a good question in my mind that the area you wanted to heat got hot enough with the dissipating effect of the crank shaft. Concentrate on the very center and work fast.
 
#83 ·
I was torching in the bolt hole for a while, that's what I tried the first time. How long would I need to hold the torch on?

I just got the 3 arm puller thing from Autozone and gave that a shot. Pulled it tight enough to bend the bolt that came with it before I gave up on it. I swear I thought the flywheel came out a bit.
 
#82 ·
Given the tools you have you might be as well off to go ahead and get the Jack bolt in place and get someone to direct heat to the very center hub and keep a stead preasure on the bolt till you feel it start to give and then really crank it down as hard as you can.
 
#84 ·
If you are getting movement I would go with heat on the center hub without worrying about down the bolt hole. It sounds conversely like you may have heated too long down there. You just wanted to warm it up a bit so it wasn't drawing off too much heat down the shaft. You heat long enough the shaft starts to expand you have done the opposite of what you want. Sorry I wasn't clearer.

Concentrate on getting heat to the very center of the hub and keeping as much pressure on whatever jacking device you can without it failing.
 
#85 ·
With all the metal on your drain plug and all the trouble you're having getting the flywheel off I have a feeling you're about to unveil some serious damage that the PO jerry rigged just good enough to get the bike sold.
 
#87 ·
When you heat one metal object inside another, they both expand in all directions, including against each other. The magic happens when the heat is strategically removed, allowing one to contract faster than the other. That breaks the bond.
 
#93 ·
Alright, I gave that another go. Didn't work. I pulled the magnets out though, so maybe I can breathe less fumes.

I'm gonna try with the 3 jaw puller in a bit. I'm thinking it might have damaged where the bolt screws into (stupid me) because I can't get the flywheel bolt (not the puller, the puller goes in fine) back in at this point.