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I have NEVER lost a engine side cover bolt. tighten them to spec, and they will stay there till you want to remove them.

If the flywheel remover is looser after being struck on the end with a hammer, it should only take a couple or three repetitions of this snug up and strike cycle to have the flywheel pop off. you should not keep trying to make it tighter.. perhaps you are not shocking the end of it enough. You have to give it a very sharp rap.
I've been hitting it like I gotta drive a nail into oak. I'll hit it some more, and see what happens.

I don't know what kinda treatment this bike had before me, so it might be why I lose bolts everywhere. I lost one of my foot peg bolts on the expressway at one point. Not since I started using the blue goo though...

Just tried some more. Not moving. I'll take it back out and try some more I guess.
 

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My exerience has been different than Duckster's. After having several fasteners come loose, I use blue threadlocker on external fasteners. Haven't had any come loose since doing so. Don't use red threadlocker as it requires heat to break the bond.
 

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I've found red threadlocker elsewhere on this bike. I really hate some of the "repairs" that were done with it. It took me nearly a month to clean up the mess the previous owner had made with the electricals.

I took out the flywheel puller and put some penetrating oil on it. Hopefully letting it sit like that will help for a bit.

If not, I'll be cleaning it up and getting the torch out.
 

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I wonder if the PO actually did put red threadlocker on the end of the crankshaft to stick the taper... It should really come off quite easily if you put some good pressure on it and give it a crisp whack or 2 with a hammer.
 

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Do you think an air impact would work or would it do more damage than good.
 

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air impact Should not be necessary....It really should slip off easy if you have the puller bolt tightened up a bit and apply shock. and heat on the permanent magnet alternator rotor would tend to demagnetize it. You might try a heat gun on the hub of the rotor and try not to overheat the magnets too much. A little heat can't hurt and may loosen the taper if done while the puller is under some tension.
 

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Do you think an air impact would work or would it do more damage than good.
That's the next step. I think an air impact would, if it did any (not saying that it would), but if it did any damage, it'll probably do less damage than me missing the flywheel puller a few times over the next 25 or so that I hit it (I've hit it at least that many times).

Duckster said:
air impact Should not be necessary....It really should slip off easy if you have the puller bolt tightened up a bit and apply shock. and heat on the permanent magnet alternator rotor would tend to demagnetize it. You might try a heat gun on the hub of the rotor and try not to overheat the magnets too much. A little heat can't hurt and may loosen the taper if done while the puller is under some tension.
Yeah, it shouldn't need it, but "should" isn't happening here. Juggernaut just likes to go above and beyond ;) . I'll give it another go, since it's had a beer-run's worth of time to sit with the penetrating oil. I'll record it on video, just in case it helps anyone else. Who knows, maybe it'll come off this time!

I didn't know that the heat could demagnetize it. I'm already missing a magnet (probably should replace it, but it's been running just fine since I got it, which it's been missing that long or longer). I'll hold off on the heat, since I've got an air impact at my disposal. If that doesn't work then heat it is.
 

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High heat will demagnetize a magnet.. OF course rotors get reasonably hot when the engine runs so if you concentrated the heat on the hub where you need it the magnets may not get very hot.
 

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I've never heard of a taper stuck that hard. 35 ft pounds should have cracked it easily with a hammer blow or 2. There's something going on here, and you may be into destroying the rotor to find out what.
 

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I think we're going to be taking it to a shop. Don't know how much it is for them to turn a bolt for me, but I'll find out. The threads still look fine on the inside, thankfully.

Here's what happened afterwards: Honda Rebel Flywheel is Coming Off? We broke the flywheel puller.... - YouTube The flywheel puller's destruction.
I doubt you will find a FLBS shop that is more competent to deal with this than you, as this is totally off the wall and unless they have an old timer who has seen every thing or some genius who thinks outside the box you can "try everything and then some" with the aid of this forum for less per hr than they can.

I'm ready to wager your problem is red thread locker.

Get your hands on the hottest torch you can. Get a new jack bolt and slather it down with never seize. The trick here is to work quickly. If you wish you can pack wet rags around your magnets. Take the torch and blow heat into the center hole against the end of the crank shaft till the tips of the threads just start to glow a bit. Spin in that jack bolt till tight as fast as you can. If you have an air impact now is the time to use it. If the air impact keeps spinning do it like the vid and keep jacking till it pops free. If you are using a simple ratchet run it as tight as you can as quickly as you can. Give it a good pop with a heaver hammer like a 2# hand sledge or drill hammer, throw the ratchet back on and twist it tight grab your cheater and turn as fast as you can. If you feel like it pour some H2o on the flywheel when it comes off. If you work quickly enough you will not likely have enough heat transfer from the center to damage the magnets. If you do I bet the cost of a replacement flywheel will be less than what you will run up in shop fees.
 

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I doubt you will find a FLBS shop that is more competent to deal with this than you, as this is totally off the wall and unless they have an old timer who has seen every thing or some genius who thinks outside the box you can "try everything and then some" with the aid of this forum for less per hr than they can.

I'm ready to wager your problem is red thread locker.

Get your hands on the hottest torch you can. Get a new jack bolt and slather it down with never seize. The trick here is to work quickly. If you wish you can pack wet rags around your magnets. Take the torch and blow heat into the center hole against the end of the crank shaft till the tips of the threads just start to glow a bit. Spin in that jack bolt till tight as fast as you can. If you have an air impact now is the time to use it. If the air impact keeps spinning do it like the vid and keep jacking till it pops free. If you are using a simple ratchet run it as tight as you can as quickly as you can. Give it a good pop with a heaver hammer like a 2# hand sledge or drill hammer, throw the ratchet back on and twist it tight grab your cheater and turn as fast as you can. If you feel like it pour some H2o on the flywheel when it comes off. If you work quickly enough you will not likely have enough heat transfer from the center to damage the magnets. If you do I bet the cost of a replacement flywheel will be less than what you will run up in shop fees.
You might be right about that. Plus if I don't take it in then I don't have to be bikeless for a month.

The FLBS that I got the flywheel puller from probably has another one or two in stock. I'll just burn the crap outta the flywheel; I should really get another one anyway. I guess this is just motivation. I'll put the air impact on it, like you suggest. Might as well give it a try - what's the chance I damage the crank with this?
 

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I wouldn't "burn the crap out" of the flywheel. You just have to get the right amount of heat to the right place to get the thread locker to soften. Concentrate on getting heat to the end of the crankshaft as well as the flywheel.

From your previous experience it appears to me that the jack bolt is deliberately made of a softer steel so that it's threads strip before the flywheel's. Given that, I expect that it will mushroom or fail in some manner before it does irreparable damage.
 

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Did I miss the part in the video where you hit the snugged up puller with a hammer? It seems she was just trying to brute force the flywheel off.
Anyway, there's something strange going on there. It should take minimal torque on the puller to break the taper loose.
I have an extra flywheel you can have for cheap if you end up destroying yours.
 

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He was tapping it with a lighweight claw hammer. Here's another vote for a two pound hammer. Bigger face and less likely to miss the puller, plus a little more heft.
 

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All i've ever used is a normal claw hammer... 16 oz head I think. You have to give it a good sharp hit though. Just torquing the heck out of the puller will just break something.
 

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Did I miss the part in the video where you hit the snugged up puller with a hammer? It seems she was just trying to brute force the flywheel off.
Anyway, there's something strange going on there. It should take minimal torque on the puller to break the taper loose.
I have an extra flywheel you can have for cheap if you end up destroying yours.
Right before I started the camera again she gave it a few good whacks. It was "wait, I think I've got something," so I started it again. Then she tightened it and it got easier... It's supposed to have came off a long time before this, so we were in the "give it some extra elbow grease" zone.

Will adding a heavier hammer into the mix do anything? I'm not sure. I pounded on it a ton all through yesterday, harder, softer, really banging on it.

Not gonna be able to do much until I go get another flywheel puller.

Duckster, I'll PM you about the flywheel -- mine's crappy anyways. And then I won't have to worry about destroying it.
 

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All i've ever used is a normal claw hammer... 16 oz head I think. You have to give it a good sharp hit though. Just torquing the heck out of the puller will just break something.
ve got a ball-pein hammer in my kit that I think I inherited from my DDD (dear departed dad) that would run around 24 oz that is my go to for this sort of application. When that fails I go to the 2# . . . Yes, the heaver hammer may make a difference as the goal is to create a shock wave that runs along the mating surface just like the wave from a quake would run along a fault line. I'll give high odds that you have got a bunch of red thread locker in there. Thats why you need the heat. If not someone tried to fill in some galling with some metal epoxy like J & B [email protected] and didn't know to coat one of the mating surfaces with never seize so you can disassemble it later if needed. If that's the case you are up the creek. Only recourse is an old timer (or young guy you can't afford) with hands like the rock of Gibraltar, eyes like an eagle and the cleanest tipped cutting torch in the land. There would have been a day I'd have said "Piece of cake" but that was in "A time long ago and a place far away."
 
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