[MataRatos]

Do you think this relay will do the trick for led signals?

http://www.hella.com/MicroSite/soe/...roSite/soe/sites/default/files/downloads/Brief-Information_LED_flasher_unit.pdf

 

[mojorisn]

It will probably work but it's a 3 prong and stock is 2 prong. You can run a wire from the 3rd prong to the dash indicator though. That should correct the voltage cross feed that occurs when running LEDs on front and rear.

 

[MataRatos]

It will probably work but it's a 3 prong and stock is 2 prong. You can run a wire from the 3rd prong to the dash indicator though. That should correct the voltage cross feed that occurs when running LEDs on front and rear.

Yes, that's why I'm looking for a 3 prong. The thing is that in this thread, 1 prong is for signal switch, 1 for the indicator and another for power (?).
This relay says 1 is for switch, one for power, and the other for ground..? This is puzzling me...

EDIT: this one is a 4 prong

http://viewitem.eim.ebay.pt/BLINKGE...A-elektronisch-universal-6-V-4poliger-Flachsteckerfr-Zweirder/300849391489/item

Besides the other prongs I refered, the 4th is for the indicator light. Maybe this is more adequate...?
This is a 6V, have to look for a 12V.

 

[mojorisn]

The best person to talk to about this is Buickguy. He knows all there is to know about it. I can get by doing my own electrical work but it isn't my strong suit and I don't do a very good job of explaining things.

 

[Buickguy]

That three prong listed is grounded. Terminal 49 for positive, terminal 49a for load, terminal 31 for ground.
While it would work if you install a ground, you would still have to deal with the cross flash. I can't make out enough of the German to find out about that four prong.

The type of three prong used for a separate dash are the ones with terminals marked X, P and L. The OE flasher is mark X and L. X is positive in, L is out to the switch.
These types of flashers were very common on American cars up through the 1980s and in large trucks for a good while after that.
One three prong I know will work is FL3-RED LED Bulb Electronic Flasher | Flashers & Load Resistors | Car Bulb Installation Supplies | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

The only downside is it doesn't click when on. A relay or buzzer could be added for the sound but the dash light should warn you.

 

[N3XUD]

This is slightly off the LED topic, but I was wondering if there is just one bulb or two in the front turn signals. Mine the turn signals work properly but the running light that I believe is to be on at all times with the head light is not.

05 Rebel 250

 

[Buickguy]

The Rebel in OE trim does not have running lights. The bulb is a standard single filament 1156 for all four signals.
Running lights can be added by putting in a dual contact double filament socket and bulb, like used in the tail/brake light (1157) but it is a modification.
The Rebel 450 came with dual contact signals and 1157 bulbs up front but the Rebel 450 is an almost completely different cycle than the Rebel (250 implied).

 

[N3XUD]

Thank You

Thank you for your reply. That puts my mind at ease. I had thought that those lights were standard on all bikes.
05 Rebel 250

 

[Buickguy]

They are easily added if you wish. Even just incandescent.
Get two of the three wire signals. Replace the front signals with them.
The aftermarket come with a red wire, a black wire and a black with white trace wire.
Red is signal + , black is ground, and the black with white trace is the running light +.
The OE left signal + wire is orange. OE right + is light blue. Dark green is ground.

In the front junction box where all those connections are, there should be a lone brown wire with a female bullet connector attached to nothing. That brown wire is the tail light circuit. Make a Y adapter to plug both black with white strip wires in to that and you will have front signals/running lights that are incandescent.

I did that with mine back in '88 long before the LED changeover modification.

 

[Sparkman]

The Rebel in OE trim does not have running lights. The bulb is a standard single filament 1156 for all four signals.
Running lights can be added by putting in a dual contact double filament socket and bulb, like used in the tail/brake light (1157) but it is a modification.
The Rebel 450 came with dual contact signals and 1157 bulbs up front but the Rebel 450 is an almost completely different cycle than the Rebel (250 implied).

Buickguy please explain more. I would like to make my rear signals into running lights but don't want to get into too much slicing and dicing.

 

[Buickguy]

In the back, they are tail lights. Tail lights need to be red by federal regs and most state laws.
Other that that, its the same wiring process, just in the rear junction box. There isn't an open brown wire in the rear junction box, so its a matter of making an extension adapter that plugs in to the existing connectors.

 

[Sparkman]

In the back, they are tail lights. Tail lights need to be red by federal regs and most state laws.
Other that that, its the same wiring process, just in the rear junction box. There isn't an open brown wire in the rear junction box, so its a matter of making an extension adapter that plugs in to the existing connectors.

Thanks BG. I just ordered a Haynes manual from amazon. Will that help me find the wire I need? From what I understand from you is I need to extend the brown wire from the front to the rear. Do I need to replace the bulb sockets as well or just the bulbs? I'll wait till I get my book and ready for the project,then I'll bug the living daylight out of you.:lol2: After all, you are the electric guy!

 

[mojorisn]

You will have to replace the sockets with a 3 wire socket. The brown wire can be accessed in the rear junction box under the fender behind the license plate.

 

[Sparkman]

What wire or wires will I splice into and where can I get the sockets? I really appreciate your time and knowledge.

 

[Sparkman]

Sorry BG I just read your post #89. I think I get it now.

 

[Buickguy]

Don't splice in, make connector extensions that plug in to existing connectors.
Its much cleaner, lasts longer, and easily reversible.

You can get three wire signals aftermarket that look just like OE.
The thing about doing rear signals as tail lights is they to be red and there are no red lenses made for the Rebel signal. Clear lenses can be had and three wire signals with clear lenses can easily be had as well. Red bulbs are hard to come by but the inside of the clear lens can be painted with Transparent Red Testors model paint.

Do keep in mind that adding the extra tail lights is putting an additional 16 watts of draw on the system. Added with front running lights that's 32 watts of extra draw.

 

[Buickguy]

Here are the links to the aftermarket signals with three wires, all set and ready to go.
Amber lenses:
https://www.denniskirk.com/k-and-s/...k-and-s/front-left-right-turn-signal-assembly-w-amber-lens.p21343.prd/21343.sku

With clear lenses and amber bulb:
https://www.denniskirk.com/k-and-s/...com/k-and-s/clear-lens-amber-bulb-turn-signal-assemblies.p210099.prd/210099.sku

Clear replacement lenses:
https://www.denniskirk.com/k-and-s/clear-turn-signal-lens.p210141.prd/210141.sku

 

[Sparkman]

:Thanx:Thanks BG!:Thanx:

 

[rpmsongs]

Hey, Buickguy. Have you worked out a diagram for 2 wire lights running and turn? I'm trying to devise a way to have it function the same way by using 2 relays, one for right and one for left, that will defeat the running light circuit when the turn switch is engaged. Driving me nuts!!! Sorry if this has been covered.

 

[Buickguy]

It depends a lot on the flasher you use.
The electromechanical flasher I used doesn't like that set up.
The FL2 red (or FL3 red) from Superbright can handle the setup.
With some resistors and diodes, it is possible to do what you wish.
Without relays, the signal side gets brighter.
To cut out the running light entirely on just the signal side would be more difficult.
My current setup cuts both sides on the running light when a signal is activated.