You may need a true electronic flasher but most of the rest is like I've outlined.
The 450 had front running lights as well as signals from the factory but that shouldn't interfere with the signal wiring if you don't plan on front running lights.

 

Thanks. Now I'm considering these so I can retain my running lights and add some extra brake lighting in the back.

I can't get the link to post properly, but they are bullet lights offered by Saddlemen that can be ordered in red or amber and have the wiring for running/brake lights. They are expensive, but I like the extra safety.

I'm not much of an electrician, but it seems like they could add the resistors to the flashers or even the lights themselves. Just to save a little headache on the wiring and hiding of wires. Do the resistors generate a lot of heat? Why wouldn't they offer them this way?

 

Don't use resistors they get very hot n use more power as well get an electronic flasher can for your indicators instead :thumb: u don't need any thing to use led tail- stop lights

 

Thank you. So resistors aren't necessary with an electronic flasher? That sure simplifies things. I'll definitely go that route!

 

Thank you. So resistors aren't necessary with an electronic flasher? That sure simplifies things. I'll definitely go that route!

Yes but make sure it is to suit led lights

 

Ok, so here's an interesting phenomonomonon. Installing Mutazu luggage required displacement of rear turn signals, and mounting them to the tail light bracket just didn't work for me. Instead, I bought 2 amber trailer lights and mounted them directly on the luggage. Each has 2 small bulbs in parallel. Now, at a stop, if I flip the turn signal on, the lights remain full on. As soon as I get up steam - say 25-30mph - they start blinking. Can anyone explain that?

 

Probably LED and not enough draw to power the thermo-relay. If you replace with an electronic one rated 0-30v then it should fix your problem.

 

No, they're incandescent. Just lower wattage. Before I took it on the road, I concluded there just wasn't enough current draw to trigger the flasher. But flashing while at speed? Can't figure.

 

^ current increases with RPMs

 

I had the same thing going on with mine. If I stopped at a light they would not flash unless I reved it up. Electronic flasher cured it!

 

I'm slowly doing the LED conversion, starting with the brake light and plate light. I need to pull things out to see if I have a two-prong or three-prong flasher (I suspect it's two) in my 2008 Rebel before doing the turn signals.

I'd like to do the dash indicator lights as well. I see Buickguy used a 194 bulb, but I can't tell what type of 194 from the photo. There are several 194 bulbs on the superbrightleds website, but I'm not sure which ones would fit correctly (I'd also like to be able to get blue, green and amber to match):

Miniature Wedge Base Bulbs - Super Bright LEDs

I am not sure if it matters or if I can just pick any of the bulbs on the 194 page?

Thanks! :Thanx:

(The electronics stuff made me nervous since I'd never done more than replace some home lighting fixtures, but since I just figured out the electrical problem on my BF's Shadow I think I can do this now.)

 

These ones WLED-x (194 type) Wedge Base bulbs Specifications
1 LED wide angle will fit nicely in the indicators.
Get the 120 degree pattern. I think you'll be pleased.

For the speedometer back light (You'll want white) the http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...leds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/WLED-xHP5.htm works very well.

 

:Thanx: Great! Thanks so much Buickguy! Now I have a comprehensive list of all the LED bulbs to get.

Now to figure out what I could add with all the power I'm saving using the LED bulbs...

 

You seem to really know yoru stuff when it comes to this. I'm not looking to do anything fancy. I jsut ordered a light bar for the fornt with two auxillary lights on it to give me more light at night. I also like the look of it. I was able to get the light bar for about the same cost as chanign out my fornt headlight assembly since there are no HID lights availalbe to jsut do a replacement of my sealed beam -- anyway, doyouthink I'll need to convert some of my lights to leds in order to have enough power for this one change, and if so, which lights would you recommed I do ( the simpler the better)?

 

It depends on the draw of your auxiliary lights. If they are H7 halogen, they will draw 55 watts each for a total of 110 watts. Saving that much on the rest of the lights isn't really doable. Cagie did a light bar and put LED lights in his auxiliary lights. However, the 1157 for the brake/tail, the GE 67 for the license plate light and the 194 for the speedometer backlight will all be plug and go. since those three are always on, youll get a good bag for the buck doing those thee. The next most effective and the high beam indicator, the neutral light and the turn indicator. Doing the signal is when it gets in to need and electronic flasher and rigging diodes for the dash turn indicator light.

 

FYI, Auto Zone has a 12V electronic flasher (Tridon LL552) for $7, much less than the cheapest at superbrightleds (FL2-RED, $13). Works great for me.

 

Translation problem question: is the turn signal RELAY the same as the FLASHER? Or they are two different components? If they ar 2, only have to swap the mechanical OEM flasher for an electronic flasher, and leave the relay alone?

 

They are the same part, just different colloquialisms.

 

Slightly confused.

OK so am I to understand that if I just swap the bulbs for LED bulbs than the turn signals will not flash properly unless I install an electronic flasher or a relay? Stock turn signals and stock break light with LED bulbs. I have seen the bulbs for $13 $14 on ebay from china.
2001 250 rebel.

 

OK so am I to understand that if I just swap the bulbs for LED bulbs than the turn signals will not flash properly unless I install an electronic flasher or a relay? Stock turn signals and stock break light with LED bulbs. I have seen the bulbs for $13 $14 on ebay from china.
2001 250 rebel.

This is correct. The old style bulbs draw enough current to make the mechanical flasher work. LEDs do not. They require an electronic flasher.

 

Do you think this relay will do the trick for led signals?

http://www.hella.com/MicroSite/soe/...roSite/soe/sites/default/files/downloads/Brief-Information_LED_flasher_unit.pdf

 

It will probably work but it's a 3 prong and stock is 2 prong. You can run a wire from the 3rd prong to the dash indicator though. That should correct the voltage cross feed that occurs when running LEDs on front and rear.

 

Yes, that's why I'm looking for a 3 prong. The thing is that in this thread, 1 prong is for signal switch, 1 for the indicator and another for power (?).
This relay says 1 is for switch, one for power, and the other for ground..? This is puzzling me...

EDIT: this one is a 4 prong

http://viewitem.eim.ebay.pt/BLINKGE...A-elektronisch-universal-6-V-4poliger-Flachsteckerfr-Zweirder/300849391489/item

Besides the other prongs I refered, the 4th is for the indicator light. Maybe this is more adequate...?
This is a 6V, have to look for a 12V.

 

The best person to talk to about this is Buickguy. He knows all there is to know about it. I can get by doing my own electrical work but it isn't my strong suit and I don't do a very good job of explaining things.

 

That three prong listed is grounded. Terminal 49 for positive, terminal 49a for load, terminal 31 for ground.
While it would work if you install a ground, you would still have to deal with the cross flash. I can't make out enough of the German to find out about that four prong.

The type of three prong used for a separate dash are the ones with terminals marked X, P and L. The OE flasher is mark X and L. X is positive in, L is out to the switch.
These types of flashers were very common on American cars up through the 1980s and in large trucks for a good while after that.
One three prong I know will work is FL3-RED LED Bulb Electronic Flasher | Flashers & Load Resistors | Car Bulb Installation Supplies | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

The only downside is it doesn't click when on. A relay or buzzer could be added for the sound but the dash light should warn you.

 

This is slightly off the LED topic, but I was wondering if there is just one bulb or two in the front turn signals. Mine the turn signals work properly but the running light that I believe is to be on at all times with the head light is not.

05 Rebel 250

 

The Rebel in OE trim does not have running lights. The bulb is a standard single filament 1156 for all four signals.
Running lights can be added by putting in a dual contact double filament socket and bulb, like used in the tail/brake light (1157) but it is a modification.
The Rebel 450 came with dual contact signals and 1157 bulbs up front but the Rebel 450 is an almost completely different cycle than the Rebel (250 implied).

 

Buickguy please explain more. I would like to make my rear signals into running lights but don't want to get into too much slicing and dicing.

 

Thank You

Thank you for your reply. That puts my mind at ease. I had thought that those lights were standard on all bikes.
05 Rebel 250

 

They are easily added if you wish. Even just incandescent.
Get two of the three wire signals. Replace the front signals with them.
The aftermarket come with a red wire, a black wire and a black with white trace wire.
Red is signal + , black is ground, and the black with white trace is the running light +.
The OE left signal + wire is orange. OE right + is light blue. Dark green is ground.

In the front junction box where all those connections are, there should be a lone brown wire with a female bullet connector attached to nothing. That brown wire is the tail light circuit. Make a Y adapter to plug both black with white strip wires in to that and you will have front signals/running lights that are incandescent.

I did that with mine back in '88 long before the LED changeover modification.

 

In the back, they are tail lights. Tail lights need to be red by federal regs and most state laws.
Other that that, its the same wiring process, just in the rear junction box. There isn't an open brown wire in the rear junction box, so its a matter of making an extension adapter that plugs in to the existing connectors.

 

Thanks BG. I just ordered a Haynes manual from amazon. Will that help me find the wire I need? From what I understand from you is I need to extend the brown wire from the front to the rear. Do I need to replace the bulb sockets as well or just the bulbs? I'll wait till I get my book and ready for the project,then I'll bug the living daylight out of you.:lol2: After all, you are the electric guy!