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[...] that I'm overly worried at times. Heck, sometimes I'm afraid to go pee.
...if you get really afraid, you may discover this will happen automatically for you, as well. ;)
 
I took my new to me 87 rebel 250 to Jacks Rebel Warehouse and let his people fix a broken exhaust bolt and adjust the vavles. He said it is running like a champ now. I'm in the proccess of UN-BOBBING my bike. He's got everything I need. I can't wait to pick it up and take it for a ride. Jack has been great to work with.
 
I took my new to me 87 rebel 250 to Jacks Rebel Warehouse and let his people fix a broken exhaust bolt and adjust the vavles. He said it is running like a champ now. I'm in the proccess of UN-BOBBING my bike. He's got everything I need. I can't wait to pick it up and take it for a ride. Jack has been great to work with.
He is a great man. He holds no secrets. If you need to know something he will gladly let know. Like how you did that? He will tell you.
 
Im very pleased so far. He is also a Brother in the Faith so we have that in common as well. Each Payday I will being buying the parts (as cash flow allows) to get my bike the way I want it. He has all sorts of parts in his warehouse that is not listed on the web site so if you need something just give him a call and talk to him. He appears to be a wealth of information about these bikes. Im blessed that where I work is only a 20 minute drive from him.
 
I forgot to note that ever since I did the valves I have had no need to choke when I start the bike.
 
I forgot to note that ever since I did the valves I have had no need to choke when I start the bike.
Use of the choke is not a bad thing. In fact it is normal to choke a "cold" carbureted engine for starting and warmup. Once warm, of course, choke is not needed for restart. The heat in the intake tract helps to vaporize the fuel more competely for easy combustion . Until you have that heat, you generally
need a little more fuel to make it burn easily.
The normal cold start procedure is no throttle at all and anywhere from half to full choke. This should light the fires almost instantly on a healthy engine
 
Use of the choke is not a bad thing. In fact it is normal to choke a "cold" carbureted engine for starting and warmup. Once warm, of course, choke is not needed for restart. The heat in the intake tract helps to vaporize the fuel more competely for easy combustion . Until you have that heat, you generally
need a little more fuel to make it burn easily.
The normal cold start procedure is no throttle at all and anywhere from half to full choke. This should light the fires almost instantly on a healthy engine
Does it being consistently in the 90+ degree F (~32+ C) range every day influence this?
 
When it's very warm you will need less choke and for a shorter time on the first start of the day.
 
Is this write up straight from the book? Searching multipul forums. Some say use .05mm and you say .003" just want to confirm it before i start pokin around
.05 mm is about .002 inches. the correct range is .002 to .004 inches.. I go with .003" when I do mine.
 
Thank You Cagie!

Just did my first self adjustment today at 15k miles. Purchased the '09 w 9k on it. I know it was long overdue. Finally got some ticking yesterday. Sure enough they were way off. Riding 1/4 too low on all 4, never mind thousandths of inches... Waiting for paint to dry on valve cover, blacked it out, should look slick. Hopefully no ticking when it runs...
 
Did you say 1/4 low? What is that? Rebels should make a clicking noise like a sewing machine, not a clacking noise.
 
Way out of adjustment

Did you say 1/4 low? What is that? Rebels should make a clicking noise like a sewing machine, not a clacking noise.
I had to back the adjustment screws off/raise them up at least 1/4 of an inch just to get some clearance/start of a gap. ON ALL 4. I'm guessing the bike never had a valve adjustment.
 
Ummm, no.. This is not possible. The engine would not run if the tappets were adjusted down 1/4 inch from correct settings. This would add almost 1/4 inch to normal valve lift, and more importantly would absolutely prevent any of them from ever closing. Such an engine could not run.
 
Ummm, no.. This is not possible. The engine would not run if the tappets were adjusted down 1/4 inch from correct settings. This would add almost 1/4 inch to normal valve lift, and more importantly would absolutely prevent any of them from ever closing. Such an engine could not run.
I would think it would reduce the amount of valve lift by that much....I just started the bike, it ran but ticked even worse than before.... I can't afford to take it to a shop...this sucks...
 
The tappets being set too tight would be increasing valve lift. When you back off the tappets you are reducing their ability to lift the valve(push down on the valve stem)
Take a deep breath and start over. put the transmission in 5th gear and roll the engine over using the back wheel rolling the bike forward (removing the sparkplugs will make this easier). Note when one of the exhaust (front)rocker arms goes fully down on the valve. Don't worry if you are a little before or after fully down, its not that critical.
Then adjust the other exhaust valve tappet so it has .003" clearance. Repeat this procedure for the other exhaust valve.

Repeat the procedure for the intake valves. That should do it for you.

You should hear alarm bells ringing when you think you find settings that are 247 thou out of spec. Even a badly out of spec valve clearance should only be a few thou off.
 
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