Welcome to the forum. Have the plugs ever been changed? What condition is the air filter? When were the valves adjusted last?

 

The plugs were replaced last year but the old ones looked to still be in good shape. The air filter is not new, but looks fairly clean. As far as the valves, they have never been adjusted to my knowledge.

 

You should adjust them soon, it's supposed to be done every 4k miles. If they have never been done they are probably too tight and could cause a loss of power and can eventually cause serious motor damage.

 

I had no idea that it needed to be done so often. I will crack the bike open tomorrow and see how far out of adjustment they might be. Thanks!

 

No problem. The very first adjustment should have been done at 600 miles and every 4k miles after that. They tend to get tight over time, especially the exhaust valves and if left that way they will eventually burn and then you'll have real problems.

 

Welcome to forum :thumb:

 

Welcome. There's a stickied thread on valve adjustment in the Wrenching How-To section. Even includes a video.

 

Well, the valves are adjusted, but the battery terminal cracked when loosening it with a Phillips screwdriver. I pulled the carb for the hell of it and was able to worm a strand of wire through each passage with no resudue sticking to the little barb I pinched on the end of it. However, one of the evap line nipples was completely blocked with carbon.

Any good ways to just block off the evap connections? Looks like it sucked carbon directly into the main passage at some point. It doesn't seem right to connect the lines that I know are full of even more carbon; it also doesn't seem right to replace the lines on an inactive evap system.

 

So it's a California model bike? I'd just disconnect the extra stuff and plug the lines.

See if any of these are helpful: http://www.hondarebelforum.com/f76/cappin-off-lines-for-emmision-control-10520.html

http://www.hondarebelforum.com/f28/removing-of-emissions-parts-16518.html

 

Like flite said, just disconnect the tank vent tube from the evap canister and make sure it's clear of obstruction. I think that is the only hose that could cause it to run bad if it was obstructed but if you want to remove the canister and purge valve you'll need to plug the vacuum line.

 

Well here's how I fixed my 6 months of the car bogging down when accelerating.

Symtoms:

When moving off from a complete stop, the car would bog down, but not all the time.
When going up a hill, the car would loose power and wouldn't respond to the slight pressure on the accelerator pedal, car would start to misfire.
would start to misfire when cruising as a constant speed
Couldn't accelerate pass 60 miles per hour.

History:

I previously had a P0171 error check engine light on, which was a result of bad O2 sensor and a crack in the exhaust manifold. Took a couple of months to discover the crack cos the heat shield covered it.

Solution:

After replacing timing belt, MAP sensor, checking the fuel pump, replacing the fuel filter, new spark plugs, transmission shift sensors, checked the TPS sensor, new rotor, new distributor, STILL had the problem.

Decided to put some Catalytic Convertor cleaner $8 from Wal Mart, saw an improvement on performance, but still had the problem.

I replaced the Catalytic Convertor and PROBLEM SOLVED

Even though there was no code ever generated by the catalytic convertor, it was clogged. What happen was, the 171 error a TOO LEAN errror, cause the engine to burn more fuel, (horrible gas milage) and the engine ran hotter, which damaged the CConverter. Once replaced the car feels brand new, and it's a 21 year old Isuzu Oasis, which is the same as the 1996 Honda Odyssey.