I have adjusted mine three times in less than 5000 miles so far. The first time because the manual called for it, the second time because I wasn't sure I had done it right the first time, and the third time because it was starting to sound different after a couple thousand miles. The process goes faster every time. The major time factor is that the bike should sit overnight beforehand to make sure all the parts are cool. I'm sure I could do the surgery in less than an hour if I had to, but I like to make it a three beer job.

 

If I remember right, they should be gaped every 8,000 miles. If you don't know the history of the bikes maintenance, then I would start at the 12,000 and go from there.

Ditto to what fridg said. Bike has to be cold, the beer temperature is optional.

First time I did mine it took me an hour and a half. And that wasn't staying on the job the whole time. I had to wash my hands twice to check on supper. Hardest part of the job was aligning the back rack bracket and the pillion seat bracket while trying to keep my washers in place while starting a bolt. Just remember to stay within torque values, aluminum strips out way too easy.

Don't know if you found this thread yet, but I found it useful. Be sure to read all the way through.
http://www.hondarebelforum.com/showthread.php/faq-valve-adjustment-2403.html

 

At 12,000 miles, check them now, and adjust if necessary. The valves on every motorcycle I've ever owned, and there have been a lot of them, never actually needed to be adjusted at the factory stated intervals, though it doesn't hurt to check them and make sure. I think part of it is the manufacturer being careful, but the main part is so they can make more money, because more riders than you might think actually think take their bike to the dealer for valve adjustments.

There are no really noticeable signs the valves are out of adjustment, because it happens so slowly, thus the need to check them. Valves that are too tight will get burned, and that's an expensive repair. Fortunately, this is not a common occurrence. Jerry.

 

very appreciative

Just want to say I am very impressed with how informed and quick people are on this forum ...........very helpful and appreciated. I hope to contribute back to forums at some point. Thanks ! Fridgitator, JunkyardDog and Guba. I did read the how to: adjust valves on the forum..........good stuff. I will print it out to have handy when I take this project on. about 8K mile is not too bad. But I'm not gona assume the previous owner did the regular adjustment.

Need to invest in a good torque wrench first. for this and just about every other job on a rebel. Actually kinda shamed I don't own one yet. Kinda standard equipment.

ya I hope to post the pics of the job ......when the rain comes

for now I have at least a few more weeks of riding

 

Get a micrometer/"click" type torque wrench, not one that has a dial and indicator needle on the handle.

 

The first valve adjustment on any bike is critical because the valves are still seating and the lash will actually close up. From then on the lash gets wider with wear and you only need to worry about it when the noise gets bothersome. A clicking valve may lose a little performance but it doesn't really hurt anything mechanically, but a closed up lash can burn a valve up or when it cools down the valves won't seal good and you lose compression. That is why that first break in valve check is so important. My twinstar cm200t has an adjustable lash and I am assuming the rebel does too. Some bikes you have to change out shims to get the lash right, but on the twinstar its a 20 minute job that anyone can do. 1mm lash for intake and exhaust. My kawi 454 ltd is another story. You have to remove the gas tank and drain the water and all kinds of stuff to get the valve cover off.

 

On the Reb your gonna have to remove the seats asnd gas tank.

 

Try doing the valves on an early '80s KZ550 or GPz550. It will make you glad the Rebel's valves are so easy. On those bikes, and several more, they used shim under bucket adjustment, and the cams have to come completely out to make an adjustment. I have done Ducati desmo valves, they are not difficult, just time consuming. The one bike I wouldn't touch the valves on, is the Honda VF800 Interceptor with VTEC valves, which uses variable valve timing. Service manual quotes FIVE HOURS of shop time to do these valves. It's all totally unnecessary, they serve no purpose. The magazines tested this bike against the one the year before that had normal valves and could find virtually no difference. Just more money in Honda's pocket. Jerry.

 

Just curious,while reading the thread what numbers are the valves measerments for the his bike,i got a 02 i'm also trying to adj valves ,thanks.

 

Valve clearance would be .002"-.004" (.06mm-.10mm)

 

good to know. should we be aiming on one side or the other of the .06 to .10 ?
get them all around .06 or get them all close to .10 ? that make sense?

or If they are all different from .06 to .10 it don't matter

 

I would go for the looser end (.09-.1), but if you don't go below .06 you should be OK.