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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
The rim strip that I bought is 29 mm across. But it is designed for a dirt bike so that should be fine.
I've been told by tire shops that for safety sake they always replace both the rim strip and the tube when they replace the tire. It's just standard practice. Doesn't mean anything's wrong with the old tube though.
I understand. Standard industry practice has reasons, some to do with efficiency, standing behind their work and and of course making as much money as possible "without actually cheating".

Some shops are plane incompetent and dishonest. I had taken the car in to have a head gasket replaced. When I got the car back, it overheated before I got home. He then changed the radiator as well as the water pump. He installed the oil dip stick sleeve backward. When he put the hood down, it broke the sleeve where it joined the engine block. He then glued it with two part epoxy. The car still over heated, there was smell of fuel in the radiator and the dip stick was glued to the sleeve (with the epoxy). Now, it sounds funny. Total bill was about $3000 in 2002. I took the car to the dealer who told me the head gasket was blown, which the shop claimed to have replaced. I reversed charges with the credit card company. The shop complained, the credit card asked me for evidence. I submitted dealer's statement. I got my money back but then the shop went to small claims court. Every one told me it was open and shut case and that I would win. The owner of the shop worked in my company where I worked about 1200 miles from home. I was an out of towner, so to speak. The judge listened to the shop owner for 45 minutes and gave me less than 5 minutes to explain the case and ruled against me. I gave up at this point.
 

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85 CMX 250C, 82 GW Remember that you are invisible, treat all others accordingly. Avoids Road RAGE!
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Yaatri, I'd like to thank you for your post for a different reason. I never realized that my axle for my rear wheel was put in backwards from the time I got it. The nut has always been on the left side of the motorcycle. When I worked on it I always put it back the way it was originally. I don't think it matters that much, but I'm going to put it right from here on out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #83 · (Edited)
Yaatri, I'd like to thank you for your post for a different reason. I never realized that my axle for my rear wheel was put in backwards from the time I got it. The nut has always been on the left side of the motorcycle. When I worked on it I always put it back the way it was originally. I don't think it matters that much, but I'm going to put it right from here on out.
Emil, I might be wrong, but the torque on the wheel would tend to loosen the nut if the nut were on the left side. Of course, it doesn't matter much, as you said, but only in a static situation. When the bike is moving, and even more so when accelerating, the pull of the chain transmits torque on the wheel wheel. The direction of that torque is pointing to the left (from right to left). If the design has a nut at one end, it's better to have the nut on the right side. Some designs could possibly have the nut on the left but then there should be cotter pin and/or castellated nut to keep it from loosening.
 

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The situation is static. It doesn't have any chance of spinning on either side because the axle is held stationary. But yes I'm planning on putting it the way the design calls for anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
The situation is static. It doesn't have any chance of spinning on either side because the axle is held stationary. But yes I'm planning on putting it the way the design calls for anyway.
You are right that the axle is held stationary. My choice of words was not very good. It's not that the axle is moving when the bike is moving but the forces are changing (forces are dynamic). Every power stroke imparts a rotational impulse--a torque-- to the rear sprocket via the chain. That gives rise to torsional (rotational) vibration modes, which will transfers some rotational impulse to the axle as well as the nut. A rotational impulse does not mean that one or the other off the two will definitely turn. Since the nut is lighter than the axle, it's more likely to move before the axle would. That's my line of reasoning. That's the only justification in my opinion of why the design inserts axle bolt from the left. If the threads were left handed, the axle would inserted from the right.
 

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I've actually noticed many of the 1st Gen have the bolt installed the same way as mine is.
Actually the 85-87 service manual page 3-11 shows it installed as mine is. I guess that is the way it is supposed to be on the 1st Gen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Haynes says torque on the pinch bolt on the front axle is 25 ft pound.for 2012 CMX, while I read 15 ft pounds here. Can someone clarify this? What's the torque and brake rotor rod? Thanks in advance. Since the arm has a rubber washer between the torque arm and the drum housing, a torque number would be meaningless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
I've actually noticed many of the 1st Gen have the bolt installed the same way as mine is.
Actually the 85-87 service manual page 3-11 shows it installed as mine is. I guess that is the way it is supposed to be on the 1st Gen.
I would dare not question experienced people like yourself or the manual. I was trying to think of a reason why it should/would be inserted from the left.
 

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25 ft pounds according to 2nd gen Rebel shop manual..
46 ft pounds for front axle bolt..
image i have wouldn't post..🤪🤪🤨

Font Material property Parallel Number Screenshot
 

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I have a question for you SoakedKarma,I noticed on the torque list it says that the axle nut, the driven sprocket nut, & swingarm pivot nut are "note 4, U-nuts". I think that means self locking nut. Am I correct in this assessment?
I kinda like the term ALOC, (apply loctite or crash).😉Anaerobic Locking Compound.
 

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My thoughts too, thanks.
FUJILOK U-NUT is a brand name over there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
25 ft pounds according to 2nd gen Rebel shop manual..
46 ft pounds for front axle bolt..
image i have wouldn't post..🤪🤪🤨

View attachment 111547
Thanks for the table SK.
I put the bike together. adjusted the chain, I think alignment of the wheels is good, wheel, torqued the front and rear axle, as well as the front axle pinch bolt and took the bike over for pre- registration safety/road worthiness inspection. The inspector mechanic took it for a ride and said everything was fine the chain needed to be tightened a bit. I shall do that. Spent four hours at DMV to apply for title and registration. Now the bike is legal and safe to be driven. Once I get the plates on the bike, I will take it for a proper ride. Si far, I have ridden it in the neighbourhood. I was't able to get to any speed as there were speed bumps on the road.

Thanks all of you for all the help you gave me.
 
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