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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
The rubber Rim strip that arrived on Saturday is an inch and 1/8 wide. I haven't taken apart the old Tire yet, how wide is the original?
I have not removed the front wheel yet. The rear rim strip was about 28 mm wide while the tire is 130 mm (5.1"). The stock front tire is 3" wide (76 mm, nominally 80mm). I suspect r front rim strip might be an inch or 25mm or less. I shall let you know when I take the front wheel and the tire off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I am going to put the rear wheel back today or tomorrow. I plan pn putting a thin coating of oil on the axle to prevent corrosion. Should I put a very thin layer of grease between the bearings and the collars?
 

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I don't grease the collars as they are immobile when torqued to specs, and the bearing housing doesn't turn against them. A little oil to prevent corrosion isn't a bad idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
While I was putting the rear wheel back in, the swing arm slipped off the wheel stand a little and bend the adjuster stem. I have straighted it just a bit but I wouldn't rely on it. It seems like just replacing the stem would be a big job. What do you guys think?
 

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To replace it, you pull out the axle. Then it should just pull out the back I think.
 

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All it takes to fix it would be 1. remove the axle, 2. slip the damaged adjuster out, and either replace it with a new one or repair the damaged one. If you can find a long enough bolt that fits the adjuster nuts, you can cut the threads off the damaged adjuster, drill a hole just large enough for the good bolt, and you are good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Thanks Emil and FC.

Saga of my troubles enhanced not just my my shortcomings but also those of others who have worked on this bike before I got it. I have three major questions here.

Mods---Is it possible to change the title of this thread? a better title would be one that describes how things can go wrong-----"Problems encountered in changing the tire and tubes" or something else that the mods can think of.

Putting the wheel and the axle back was a challenge. Aligning everything and hold the wheel in place while inserting the axle nut was pretty hard. But I now, know what to do.
Firstly, the right side collar had been installed the wrong way (broadside pointing inward) when I removed it a month ago. Parts diagram showed it pointing outboard and Emil confirmed that. Because if this, the washer was between the collar and the swing arm, which I know is wrong ( but I did not know until now.
I installed the wheel and two collars and the axle nut (collars were installed the right way but the right side washer was in the wrong place. It was a challenge to align everything with the axle bolt. After I connected the rear brake, I realised that I had left the chain off. The sprocket and the hub should be inside the chain loop. The only way to install the chain now would be to break a link and loop the chain around the sprocket and install a master link.

So I removed the axle bolt and brake connections gain and so that it the chain would loop around the axle and the sprocket. It was very difficult to put the washer between the right collar (installed the right way) with the washer still in the wrong place, between collar and the swing arm. In order to align everything. The collar and and the washer kept slipping out of alignment with the hole through the adjuster and the swing arm. I got around that by holding the collar and the washer in place by insetting a screw driver through the swing arm and the adjuster hole and now it was much easier to slip the axle bolt through. With brakes reconnected again, it was time to align adjust the chain tension and align the wheel. The left brake adjuster was still the damaged one ( I will get to that in a bit). The flange on the axle bolt is about 32 mm while the flange on the axle nut is about 26 mm. There is no way there edges could be used to align with notches on the adjuster reliably. I figured I would do it later. Recall that I wrote early on in this thread that the position of the adjuster nits on the right side before was much closer to the end of the adjuster threaded stem. That made me think that the washer had been installed in the wrong place--between the collar and swing arm. It should be between the swing arm and the axle bolt. If the washer is in the wrong place, the centerline of the rear and front wheels would not be along the same line. Am I correct?

Now the chain adjuster---- It's the one on the left side. I must have positioned the rear wheel stand too close to the end of the edge of the swing arm so that the axle bolt would not be obstructed by seat of the wheel stand. In maneuvering the wheel, the swing arm slipped off the edge of the seat of the wheel stand and the bike was partly supported by the chain adjuster threaded stem. I used another jack to raise the bike and reposition the wheel stand much further to the front. I straightened the stem of the chain adjuster as best as I could. Repairing it is not easy as the adjuster bolt is inserted in the adjuster before the adjuster assembly is put together. I suppose what FC suggests could be done but it would have to be done with the bolt of right length, diameter and thread pitch, cut its head off and insert it through the hole drilled in the adjuster housing and threaded into two nuts inside the adjuster housing so that the bolt would stay in place. It's a cheap and reliable solution but does involve a some work. So I have ordered a new one and the nuts too in case I damage the nuts in using them with the damaged threaded stem. I also found that I have some nuts with the same diameter and the pitch.

SInce it's the left adjuster I damaged I should have interchanged the left and the right adjusters since replacing the right one is easier than the left one (as I would have to with draw the axle bolt just enough to clear the right adjuster. But I didn't think of doing that in time. Right now, the nuts on the damaged adjuster stem turn, perhaps the damage to the threads is further down the length. I was dreading having to pull the axle out again but now I know that the washer on the right side goes outside the swing arm and I have found a way to align everything efficiently, it won't be too difficult. At this point I plan on using the old adjuster and replace it when I I have to do the sprocket. I shall however reposition the right washer---does it sound reasonable?


Can the swing arm stand be used to jack the front wheel up by positioning it under the the forks?

I appreciate all the advice I have been getting here. My wife is a trooper but she does get tired and neither of us have much strength. Have trouble with knees shoulder and back but it's lot of staisfaction to get something done after a lot of frustration. My son son is still recovering from his knee injury--he still can.t bend his knee much and is still limping. I hope to get it all done by next week and get it inspected for registration.
 

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The moderators can move your post and rename it if you want them to. They've had to do that for me before too.
First time I put the wheel back on I forgot the chain too. You'd think after so many years of working on bikes I'd remember that. Chalk it up to imperfection and as a learning experience.
Hope your son gets better soon!
 
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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
So does the washer go outside the swing arm (on the right side). In my opinion, it should be between the swing arm and the axle nut and NOT between the collar and swing arm. My reasoning is that the flange of the collar and the washer, both reduce the the axial stress on the axle threads and the the compression loading on walls of the swing arm. You were right about the orientation of both collars Emil.
 

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This whole time you're talking about a washer I've been trying to figure out what this washer is. The only washer that is on my axle is on the outside of the swingarm, on the inside of the lock nut.

Update: looking at the pictures of the manual , it does not show the washer where mine is on my bike and always has been. I honestly am not sure where that washer was that supposed to go.
I'll be doing some more research on that one unless somebody comes up with answer first.
This picture shows it as being on the nut side of the axle, but it doesn't show its positioning whether inside or outside of the swing arm. Although assuming is generally a bad idea, under the lockout is the only place that makes sense to me.
 

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Renamed thread. As Emil said, washer goes between swingarm and axle nut. I learn from my errors, but usually not before repeating them a time or two.
 
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Thanks Emil and FC. I had seen the rear brake parts diagram, that clearly shows proper orientation of the right side collar/spacer (conformed by Emil also) and the order collar washer and the nut but does not show whether the the washer is outside or inside the swingarm. Hence the question. Thanks for confirming my un-expert opinion.

For the front wheel:
  1. Do I need to remove the brake caliper also?
  2. Do I need to remove the speedometer gear housing as well as the cable, or just removing detaching the cable, by unscrewing the retaining loop at the wheel?
  3. Once I get into it, it will probably be clearer but just want to avoid pitfalls. I have never taken front wheel of any bike off. Even though I had taken the rear wheel off of my CM200T, I had many surprises on the Rebel. have no recollection of how I did it on the CM200T.
 

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With the front wheel safely elevated, remove the axle and the speedo hub will slide out. Then the wheel and rotor can be carefully slid out of the caliper. No need to remove the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
With the front wheel safely elevated, remove the axle and the speedo hub will slide out. Then the wheel and rotor can be carefully slid out of the caliper. No need to remove the caliper.
Does that mean I don't need to unscrew or detach the cable from the speedo housing?
 

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You don't need to unscrew the speedo cable unless you choose to do so.
 
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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
You don't need to unscrew the speedo cable unless you choose to do so.
Very good instruction provided by you and Emil here and in another conversation. The wheel is off and the tire is off the rim without puncturing the tube. I pumped the tube with some air and tested in the kitchen sink nearly three full circles. I do have two spare tubes but I am going to try to put the old tube in unless there is good reason to not use it. The tube is at most 9 years old. The tire had dry rot, which is why I am replacing the tire.
 

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I have the factory tube in my 2009 front tire (rear is tubeless), so it is 11 years old. I don't think tubes wear out as quickly as tires because they aren't exposed to as much ultra-violet light. Check around the base of the valve stem. If there is any cracking visible when the stem is flexed, replace it. Otherwise, I think it can be reused. OEM tubes are usually much heavier than their after market replacements.
 
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Discussion Starter · #78 · (Edited)
I have the factory tube in my 2009 front tire (rear is tubeless), so it is 11 years old. I don't think tubes wear out as quickly as tires because they aren't exposed to as much ultra-violet light. Check around the base of the valve stem. If there is any cracking visible when the stem is flexed, replace it. Otherwise, I think it can be reused. OEM tubes are usually much heavier than their after market replacements.
the tire is on the rim and it seems like I did not puncture the tube. I pumped the tire up tp 29psi and will let it sit overnight before I install the wheel. I could not have done it without you guys. I had bought a $2.50 tire grease, I might have used a a bit too much as I have got much left after using it in installing one tire.

For me, HF tire irons, though two ft long were difficult to use as they were too thick and were prone to pinching the tube.
I used
NEIKO 20601A 14.5 inch Steel Tire Spoon Lever Iron Tool Kit
Did not use the rim protectors.
Tool Motorcycle Dirt Bike Off-road Tire Change Install Tool for Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuki(Black)
and
Tire Mounting Bead Lubricant Lubricant
It's a tiny tub about the size of little ketchup tubs in fast food places. When I went to pick it up, I burst into laughter as the website gave no indication of the size, The cashier laughed heartily too. It looks like vaseline or KY jelly

If I used too much of the lube, I hope it doesn't run off and make the wheel sleep when I am riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
The rubber Rim strip that arrived on Saturday is an inch and 1/8 wide. I haven't taken apart the old Tire yet, how wide is the original?
I measured the rim strip on the front rim. It's 20mm wide.
 

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I measured the rim strip on the front rim. It's 20mm wide.
The rim strip that I bought is 29 mm across. But it is designed for a dirt bike so that should be fine.
I've been told by tire shops that for safety sake they always replace both the rim strip and the tube when they replace the tire. It's just standard practice. Doesn't mean anything's wrong with the old tube though.
 
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