[Dominic_thetooljunkie]

So my mom had a used cmx 250 and it had been treated terribly, and after a while and a lot of other things she gave it to me and it had a carb issue so it didn’t run. I got it running but the carb probs came back so I got an aftermarket carb that “fit” but of course there were studs on the cylinder head that needed to be removed and swapped. long story short one snapped in the worst possible place. Bolt extractors 6mm and up don’t fit and I have yet to find a 5mm size extractor. Any comments and ideas to help solve this would be appreciated.

 

[Markrkolb]

For me plan a would be heat and a vise grip. Lots of ways to get that out for what it worth- hard to beat the stock carb!

 

[Dominic_thetooljunkie]

For me plan a would be heat and a vise grip. Lots of ways to get that out for what it worth- hard to beat the stock carb!

The cooling fins get in the way of any vice grip I can get on it perpendicular to the bolt and when I try at an angle the bolt slides through the grip of it, and I’ve tried heat with a extractor and the stud too small for a 6mm extractor and too big for a 3/16th extractor. However I’ve been searching for a 5mm extractor with no luck

 

[Markrkolb]

Lots of people here have had success with left-handed drill bits.

 

[Emil]

I've been able to remove broken exaust manifold studs with a new pair of real "Vise Grips" without much problem at all. And they were broken off pretty low. True, they might be more loose due to a much higher number of heat cycles, but you still should be able to get it done this way.

 

[flitecontrol]

I'd also recommend using penetrating fluid too.

 

[01-7700]

If it were mine I would mig/tig weld a nut onto the end of the remaining stud - let it cool until it's no longer red hot - then give it a gentle turn both ways. If you get some movement, give it the penetrating fluid and carefully turn it both ways until it seems like it will take more torque to come out. If the nut breaks off, weld on another one.

I would put the ground cable as close to the weld as possible and unplug the wiring harness from the engine.

 

[Markrkolb]

One more thought- if access is a problem it is not a huge deal to remove the engine. Even a substandard wrench like me can do it in an hour or two

 

[garicao]

So my mom had a used cmx 250 and it had been treated terribly, and after a while and a lot of other things she gave it to me and it had a carb issue so it didn’t run. I got it running but the carb probs came back so I got an aftermarket carb that “fit” but of course there were studs on the cylinder head that needed to be removed and swapped. long story short one snapped in the worst possible place. Bolt extractors 6mm and up don’t fit and I have yet to find a 5mm size extractor. Any comments and ideas to help solve this would be appreciated. View attachment 115772
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I'd also recommend using penetrating fluid too.

Might want to add hammer taps to the heat/wd-40/vice-grip cycle. Caution about flame/sparks and gasoline.

 

[Fridgitator]

Have you tried a basin wrench?
basin wrench

 

[Emil]

⅜"/~10mm diameter minimum, probably wouldn't grip.

 

[redeemer1972]

If it were mine I would mig/tig weld a nut onto the end of the remaining stud - let it cool until it's no longer red hot - then give it a gentle turn both ways. If you get some movement, give it the penetrating fluid and carefully turn it both ways until it seems like it will take more torque to come out. If the nut breaks off, weld on another one.

I would put the ground cable as close to the weld as possible and unplug the wiring harness from the engine.

Here is the solution!

 

[Larry Fredericks]

So my mom had a used cmx 250 and it had been treated terribly, and after a while and a lot of other things she gave it to me and it had a carb issue so it didn’t run. I got it running but the carb probs came back so I got an aftermarket carb that “fit” but of course there were studs on the cylinder head that needed to be removed and swapped. long story short one snapped in the worst possible place. Bolt extractors 6mm and up don’t fit and I have yet to find a 5mm size extractor. Any comments and ideas to help solve this would be appreciated. View attachment 115772
View attachment 115773
View attachment 115770
View attachment 115769
View attachment 115771
View attachment 115768

Get a small monkey wrench. Lock down on the stud and turn. The harder you turn, the more it bites in. It will come out.

 

[B40dash8]

Option 1: Borrow a mig welder from a friend or buy a cheap mig welder from harbor freight. Like the above suggested. Weld a nut onto that stud. After welding the nut onto the stud it will be nice and extremely hot. You should be able to work that stud out by tightening and loosening it allowing it to work in both directons. When your done watchYouTube videos on how to weld. You will be a successful YouTube certified welder. A welder is great to have around the house. Trust me. I suggest the titanium easy flux 125 model. It has made me a ton of money. Obviously you will need a welding helmet/goggles but harbor freight has them too for cheap then go to lowes or Home Depot and buy Lincoln electrics flux core wire for that machine. I don’t use the harbor freight flux core wire but that’s just me. I’m sure their wire would work fine.

option 2: Grind flat edges on that stud so you can use vice grips on it. Buy/use a can of propane or preferably yellow map gas and heat it up. Use pb blaster or a penetrating fluid also. Put the vice grip on the flat parts you grinded down and work it back and fourth easily but make sure you don’t snap it. I really don’t see a extractor or easy out working but that’s just my opinion. You have plenty of stud to work with to get it done. It’s when it’s broke flush is when you’ll have a bad problem