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My deceased FIL's 1983 Suzuki FA50 kick starter scooter has been sitting in my barn for about five years. Before that, it was kept in my daughter's garage for over a decade. On a recent visit, one of our grandsons saw it and asked if he could buy it. My wife told him it was his if he wanted it, and asked me to try to get it running. I hoped that the bike had been prepped for storage, but discovered that, among other things, the carb wasn't drained and the bowl was filthy. There is spark, and the petcock flows fuel to the carb. I put fresh gas and two cycle oil in it. I ran the carb through an ultrasonic cleaner and reinstalled it, but couldn't get it to start. The carb is nothing like a Rebel carb, but not sure that has anything to do with the problem.

Anyone have experience with two cycle motors and might point me in the right direction?

Thanks!
 

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It's been a very long time (over 30 years ago) .... so I don't know how applicable this is (or if my memory is that good!). Also apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs, just trying to think of everything...

Are you getting fuel at the top, is the spark plug wet and smell of petrol? If so it could just be flooded. Choke but no throttle when cranking.

I'd remove the air filter first, then check compression lastly. A 50 doesn't have much vacuum (or time) to draw fuel from the carb. During compression, fuel is sucked into the crankcase; During exhaust that fuel is brought up into the chamber. A dirty filter could cause fuel starvation, no compress ditto. Oh, check the seal between the carb and engine too (I couldn't see an o-ring or gasket in the diagram).

That bike has a CDI so, like the Rebel, there should be no timing adjustments. There are also no valves to adjust.
I always had to kick mine about 3 times before it would fire up.

I think that carb is like the Rebel, in that you only have a throttle stop and idle mix adjustment, so nothing much to do there either.

Sorry it's not much to go on, hopefully somebody with recent knowledge will step in.
 

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Thanks for responding. I failed to mention that the foam filter element had turned to dust. I haven't put a replacement on, as I wanted to get the engine to fire before investing any more in it. Not sure what fuel at the top means, but yes, the plug is damp. I set the air fuel screw to what the manual specified. Not much experience with a kick starter, but I'll give it a dozen or so tries before admitting defeat. I've been following the manual instructions on starting; petcock on Prime, key on, kill switch on Run, full choke, no throttle, left brake pulled to engage kick starter.
 

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I meant fuel in the combustion chamber, I always think of cylinders going up/down, I forget sometime they are mounted horizontally 🤦‍♂️ (facepalm).

So if you are getting spark and fuel, there's only three things it can be. Weak spark (gap too small or lots of carbon), incorrect spark timing (it should spark everytime the piston is farthest from the crankshaft, but that's not a wasted spark in this case), air/fuel mixture (no clue asides from what you've already done).

Any chance the o-ring on the carb mixture screw is not sealing and sucking in air?

On my old bike, the rpm determined the voltage, so if the kick was too weak/slow, the spark voltage was too low and it wouldn't fire even if it jumped the gap. However that was points, not CDI which should produce a more consistent result at the spark plug regardless of the RPM's.

I don't have any other ideas.
 

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Just finishing a 1954 suzuki FZ 50..Just about the same bike. neat little moped. This one came to me in 30 plus pieces. Any way try some starting spray. Take the air filter off and spray right into the intake. I always replace all the fuel lines first when I start a restoration. I took the petcock off and found it had like grape jelly in it. Make sure its put together properly . Get a manual- CD off the net. I find them helpful.
Take the plug out and put some gas in, but just a little. I use an eye dropper and give it a squirt. If it has spark it should burp. Close air adjustment on the carb and back off 1-3/4 turns. set the idle at about 2 turns out to start and adjust from there. If you get it running bleed the oi pump make sure it has no air in it. I restore vintage bikes. 54 is a little new for me.Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks so much for the helpful suggestions!
 

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Still won't start after a second carb cleaning (found an orifice with gunk in it I didn't use compressed air on the first time). New fuel lines from the petcock to the carb. Didn't want to spend $22 on new fuel lines from tank to petcock and an air filter until I got it running. Gas flows freely from the petcock, and out the carb drain when the drain screw is loosened. Sprayed starting fluid into the carb with no success. I have spark, and gas vapor comes out the back of the carb after a few kicks, but it doesn't even sound like it want's to start. Will try squirting some gas into the cylinder in the morning. In the mean time, any more suggestions? I note the owners manual indicates the back light should come on when the key is turned to "ON", but this one doesn't. May be the socket is corroded or the bulb is bad; will check both in the morning, but wondering if this might indicate a wiring problem.
 

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Just had a thought. The float valve is all metal, no rubber tip. Anyone know if there should be a rubber tip on it? I'm thinking maybe the carb is flooding the engine if the valve is faulty?
 
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