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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
so i was having issues with a frayed pull throttle cable, so i figured id go ahead and replace both the throttle cables. i purchased new motion pro cables, measured them and compared with the original, they are within 1/2" of each other, if even so they should work ok. i installed them, and im getting a sticky throttle. i checked the tension on the exposed section of cable on the carbs and theyre both loose, i can push some slack with my finger. so i took apart the throttle handle; removed it from the bar, cleaned and lubed the bar and plastic handle, reinstalled and still stays in place when i remove my hand and very tight. ive adjusted the cables in what seems to be all of the possible adjustments and ive only been able to get it to work with the handlebars all the way to the left in one position (any tighter or looser and it doesnt snap back anymore). I also lubed where the plastic throttle handle meets the killsiwtch housing and it still sticks. any suggestions?
 

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Did you see if there was any binding with the cables not attached to the carb?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you see if there was any binding with the cables not attached to the carb?
yea its smooth when the carbs are off but when i put the cables on its really hard to get them into the bracket (i have to take a flatblade and push up very hard on the lock nuts). but once in i can push on the cable with my finger. cables routed correctly i double checked that as well. it feels like its something in the handle.
 

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i was thinking there might be a kink in the cable routing

first try loosening the screws on the throttle control - see if that helps

slowly dismantle things and check often to see if it makes a difference

take the tank off and check cable action while positioning the cables where they will be

see where the problem starts every step of the way

down to cables off if necessary - then put it all back together - testing cable action every step of the way
 

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it sounds like one or the other is in a bind via the routing/mounting.
remove the tank
1. remove the cables from the carb, let them dangle free, feel the grip twist
2. route the cables to the carb and use a twist tie to hold them against the bracket but don't put them in the bracket, feel the grip twist
3. put the cable sleeves in the bracket but don't put the ends on the throttle cam, feel the grip twist
4. put the cable ends in the throttle cam, put the sleeves in the bracket but don't tighten the adjusters, again feel the grip twist
If its a binding from the routing #2 or #3 will reveal that resistance for not returning.
If it's an issue with the cable end length that sticks beyond the sleeve, #4 will probably show the resistance...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
it sounds like one or the other is in a bind via the routing/mounting.
remove the tank
1. remove the cables from the carb, let them dangle free, feel the grip twist
2. route the cables to the carb and use a twist tie to hold them against the bracket but don't put them in the bracket, feel the grip twist
3. put the cable sleeves in the bracket but don't put the ends on the throttle cam, feel the grip twist
4. put the cable ends in the throttle cam, put the sleeves in the bracket but don't tighten the adjusters, again feel the grip twist
If its a binding from the routing #2 or #3 will reveal that resistance for not returning.
If it's an issue with the cable end length that sticks beyond the sleeve, #4 will probably show the resistance...
sorry for the late response, as i was away... so the bracket that holds cables down under tank broke off :nonono: not sure what to do about that as its welded to the frame but not necessary to test basic throttle function. With tank and carbs off, throttle cables go back and forth smoothly; put carbs on it gets tight and wont snap back. i lubed the crap out of the cables, took apart the handle cleaned and lubed it all up. theres no resistance in the cables when carbs are off. i put them on, i can feel slack in the cable on the carb end with my finger but it doesnt want to snap back. this is the most finicky cable setup ive ever seen... most finicky bike ive ever worked on. :mad0002:
 

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I can't help but think something isn't routed properly, or the new cables are larger in diameter than the ones your replaced. It shouldn't be that difficult to fit the cables into a bracket. Wondering if the 450 has a different setup than the 250. IIRC, there's only one bracket that holds the cables on the 250, and it's bolted to the carb.
 

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zip ties are your friend when routing cables past 'broken frame retainers'


you kept saying it binds with the carbs on and not when the carbs are off...
what I'm asking is are the cables binding when you put the end of the cable sleeves in the bracket next to the throttle cam without putting the cable anchors in the cam itself?

i.e. don't put the little round endy bits in this thingy....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
zip ties are your friend when routing cables past 'broken frame retainers'


you kept saying it binds with the carbs on and not when the carbs are off...
what I'm asking is are the cables binding when you put the end of the cable sleeves in the bracket next to the throttle cam without putting the cable anchors in the cam itself?

i.e. don't put the little round endy bits in this thingy....
the cables are not sticking when they are in bracket but not attached to butterfly. could it be an issue with the routing from the bracket to the carb? thats the last "link" attaching handle to carb...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I can't help but think something isn't routed properly, or the new cables are larger in diameter than the ones your replaced. It shouldn't be that difficult to fit the cables into a bracket. Wondering if the 450 has a different setup than the 250. IIRC, there's only one bracket that holds the cables on the 250, and it's bolted to the carb.
the 450 has a bracket holding the cables bolted to the carb like the 250... never had the gas tank off on my 250 so cant say if it has that retainer that holds the cables underneath. im gonna screw with the routing from bracket to carb
 

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Is the butterfly easy to open by hand? Does the spring cause it to snap closed once you release the hand tension on it?
 

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the cables are not sticking when they are in bracket but not attached to butterfly. could it be an issue with the routing from the bracket to the carb? thats the last "link" attaching handle to carb...
I'm going to hazzard a guess here, if the cables in the bracket don't stick, but putting the anchors in the cam and it sticks, AND the cam rotates freely feeling only the return spring and no jamming/gummy/bind/etc....I'd wager my lunch money they are too tight.
Do you have to fight to get the sleeve ends in the bracket after putting the anchor ends in the cam, even with the adjusters backed off to as much slack as possible? I'm thinking you don't have enough free cable extending past the sleeve to have the appropriate slack. There should be something like 1/16-1/8 in of wiggle in the throttle grip where you see the cables flex a hint on the cam before they start to turn the cam & throttle plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is the butterfly easy to open by hand? Does the spring cause it to snap closed once you release the hand tension on it?
butterflies are performing as they should when off the bike, its something with the cables
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm going to hazzard a guess here, if the cables in the bracket don't stick, but putting the anchors in the cam and it sticks, AND the cam rotates freely feeling only the return spring and no jamming/gummy/bind/etc....I'd wager my lunch money they are too tight.
Do you have to fight to get the sleeve ends in the bracket after putting the anchor ends in the cam, even with the adjusters backed off to as much slack as possible? I'm thinking you don't have enough free cable extending past the sleeve to have the appropriate slack. There should be something like 1/16-1/8 in of wiggle in the throttle grip where you see the cables flex a hint on the cam before they start to turn the cam & throttle plate.
it is rather difficult to put the second cable into the bracket, and if i had one of them tensioned it would be almost impossible (putting a flatblade under the locknut and forcing it up with all my strength). theres two nuts on the pull cable housing... should they both be on the top or one on the top one on the bottom locking the cable into the bracket... my dad was wondering that.
 

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On my 250, there's one nut below the bracket, the other on top.
 
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