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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently picked up a 2004 Rebel, and it's been running pretty well. It had been requiring the choke at all times, so I added a few oz of Sea Foam to the gas, and that let me back it out to halfway once it's warmed up. Anything past that and it dies, no matter how long I've been on it.

In addition, it recently started dying at idle. The first time it did it, there was a popping noise as it started to slow, and now it slows any time I'm not giving it gas. It's done the popping noise one other time, so it's not something that happens a lot and may not be related.

The best mileage I've managed has been about 40MPG. There's nothing but hills in between me and school, so I have to be pretty heavy on the throttle, but this seems really low. Probably related?

I tried to check the fuel screen in the petcock, but I'm not understanding what I'm looking at. I took the bowl off the bottom (stripping the nub in the process :mad:) and there didn't seem to be anything inside to mess with. The diagram I saw said I was missing a gasket, but that the screen was higher in the assembly. Is there something beyond the gasket I'm missing? (in the fuel tank diagram on most parts sites, the gasket is part 1 in the list)

I'm thinking to clean the carb. I've seen the disassemble instructions on the forum, but the removal instructions at the bottom are for an older model. Is the procedure still the same? Do I need to replace any parts, or is everything reusable?

Anything else that could be causing this? Engines are a bit new to me, so it's entirely possible I'm doing something retarded here. I saw somewhere that having the choke open can foul the spark plugs, so I'll check those, and I found the puke tube, but haven't figured out how to get the clamp off yet.

Thanks for any help.
 

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The carb is gummed up from sitting at some point with gas in it. Clean the carb and your mpgs should be up around 70ish. Plus you will only need the choke for the first few miles when it's cold.
 

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If you don't have one, install a small inline fuel filter between the petcock and carb. Cut out a length of fuel line as long as the filter body (not including the connection nipples) and install. This will help keep any foreign objects in the tank from reaching the carb.
 

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If you take the carb apart for a cleaning, DON"T stick anything in the small ports! It's way too easy to enlarge them, then your asking for trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Heh, I think I hid my questions too well. I'm too wordy when tired.
1> Should I have seen anything to mess with when I pulled the bottom off the petcock?
2> Does the carb on the '04 come off the same/similar as the one shown at http://www.hondarebelforum.com/f39/carburetor-disassembly-and-reassembly-1743.html?
3> Do I need to replace any parts after cleaning the carb? My dad is worried I couldn't reuse a gasket or clamp.
4> How do I take the cap off the puke tube? I don't see how the clamp operates and it's on there real good.

I think that should get me going. Thanks for the responses.
 

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1. Not sure what you are looking to mess with, but unless you remove the petcock from the fuel tank, you won't see the screen/filter.

2. Yes.

3. Unually no. Had mine apart twice and all the gaskets and O-rings were OK.

4. Mine doesn't have a clamp, just a friction fit like a plug on a portable gas can. But then the PO could have tossed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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My drain (puke) tube plug is held on by a spring clamp. To removethe plug, I use pliers. A set to squeeze the tabs of the clamp which spreads it a bit. I sometimes use a second set of pliers to rotate and pull the plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, that's the diagram I was looking at for the petcock. It makes a lot more sense now that I have the thing apart. The carburetor bits are soaking now, though everything looked shiny and new to me. The spark plugs, on the other hand, were jet black, so I didn't even bother to try cleaning them. Gonna see if I can pry the puke tube open while stuff degunks...

Was the carb supposed to be a bear to remove? There just didn't seem to be enough space behind it to pull it back off the bolts. I got it out eventually, but not without great wailing and gnashing of teeth.
 

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Not the easiest carb to remove. I had to pull the air filter and push the rubber tube connecting the carb and air box into the box. WD-40 helps getting it to go both on and off.

The carb can appear clean but just a speck of varnish or gum will mess it up. Did you remove the jets from the carb and soak them too? Use compressed air to blow out every opening on the carb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I searched the forum for "carburetor" and read every post, so I hope I had everything covered. I followed a mashup of the Haynes guide and the Carburetor dissasembly post here, and it covered most of my problems. The one thing I wasn't prepared for was how hard it was to remove and reinstall the thing. There was a bracket blocking me that seemed like it was put in place after the carb was, and it teamed up with the air intake to make life absolutely miserable. I want to do something violent to whoever wrote the Haynes guide, though - their picture makes it look like it just slides on and off. 75% of my time was spent on that one step!

It's done though, and the bike is purring like a kitten with the choke all the way off now, so it was worth it. I hope it improves the mileage as well - that 40mpg mark is embarrassing!
 

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Mileage should jump up north of 70 now. Some get 80 or more.
Might be a good idea to change the oil too because if your plugs were that black I bet the oil got diluted and thinned out with gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did that the day I got it... obviously hadn't been done in a while. Worth doing again after 2 weeks of bad plugs etc?
 

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Is there a cheaper alternative to the $45 screen in the fuel tank? I wasnt able to get out the screen without mangling it and I brought my tank to a shop to have it done (cleaned and coated for $60) and they don't believe they will be able to save the screen.

The shop owner did seem to think that the local HD dealer would have a screen that would fit.

I really dont like going to that place cause they are elitist jerks and definitely will not be helpful in finding a screen for my tank.

IDEAS???
 

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An inline fuel filter.
 

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^X2............. Need one anyway. Get a clear one so you can see if the liner begins to dissolve. If you can find replacement brass screen material, someone should be able to solder it on.
 

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If you get a clear fuel filter, shop around and make sure you get the shortest one possible.

What ever you do, don't let the fuel line create a loop seal by going below the carb entry port.
 

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Forget the in tank screen. As long as the petcock has the o ring seal and doesn't leak you are good with an inline filter like already mentioned.
 

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Already got two EMGO filters on the way, one for each bike. Thanks.
 
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