Postmortem: Lowering Turn Signals

Maddog240 suggested that I lower the front turn signals on my 2009 Rebel because they've been known to dent the fuel tank when the bike gets laid down. I lowered them this weekend, and here's what it took to do it:


Difficulty: :sign0124: :sign0124:

Tools used: 1/4" drive socket wrench, short extension, 8mm socket, 10mm open ended wrench, #1 phillips screwdriver, needle nosed pliers, cordless drill, small drill bit (3/16"? Just grabbed the one that looked right)

Total time: About an hour.


1) Removed vertical bolt from signal clamp with 8mm socket and short extension. I discovered this bolt also holds the wiring box in place, so I did all these steps to one side before starting the other side.

2) Loosened clamp by removing the remaining nut and bolt with an 8mm socket and a 10mm wrench.

3) Loosened two screws on wiring box and opened it up. I made note that the left signal wire pair was orange and green, the right was light blue and green.

4) Gently unplugged wire pair from box, pulled it loose and also pulled it out of the eyelet on the bottom of the clamp to free up more length.

5) Removed clamp from fork, being careful not to strain the chromed plastic signal arm. I assume it will break easily.

6) Removed vertical bolt bushing from clamp, slipped it back on bolt and tightened the wiring box back down.

7) Drilled small hole in lower corner of wiring box. As was, the wire pair entered the box near the top, so I thought to free up more wire length by allowing it to enter lower. I drilled from the backside out through the front, being careful not to ding the wires in the box, the cables behind the box or my fingers holding the box.

8 ) Slipped clamp back on fork approximately where I wanted it.

9) Snaked the wire pair back into the box, gently held the ends with needle nosed pliers and replugged them.

10) Repeated steps for other side.

11) Aligned lights, tightened clamps and checked signal operation.

12) Replaced wiring box cover.

13) Have a beer.*


The turn signal arms are now considerably lower. The bottom of the clamps are a mere inch (2.5 cm) above the lower crossmember on the fork, and the signal arms are more inline with the bottom of the fuel tank. I suspect that if they were to hit the tank now, they'd hit near the bottom and the resulting dent, if any, would be less conspicuous. However, the clamps will now rotate around the fork if pressure is applied to the signal arm, so it's more difficult to predict what might happen in the event of a lay down. Just the same, I am satisfied with their placement and pleased that highway speed winds do not move them.


*I did all this in the shop at work, so no step 13 for me, but I highly recommend it.