Welcome. The plug is probably over tightened. Get a 17 mm socket or box end wrench and give it a sharp rap with a rubber mallet. Make sure you are turning the plug counter clockwise. That should break the plug free. You need to remove the plug since the oil should be changed every 1,000-1,500 miles.

If the idiot PO pulled the aluminum threads in the crankcase by over tightening, you'll need an oversize, self tapping, plug to replace it with. Many auto parts stores carry such things.

 

Agree with the above advice except the part about the rubber mallet. Hitting a stuck bolt with a rubber mallet won't do much except bounce the mallet off the wrench. You need steel on steel to get effective shocking action.
Hitting a wrench to get more torque is kind of a risky strategy, though it may well work OK. Its risky because you can break the wrench, or strip the head of the bolt if you use a conventional 12 point box end.
Its possible to get a socket with extension on the drain plug by first slipping the extension between the frame and the exhaust pipe. If the head of the plug is still in good shape, you could use a 6 point socket with extension and get on it with an impact tool. Even an impact screwdriver might work OK, but an air tool would be best. Impact will work wonders on stuck fasteners. The shock momentarly releases the friction in the threads and allows a moderate instantaneous torque to loosen the fastener.

 

Thanks for the responses! I tried over the weekend using a breaker bar and star socket, but it started to strip the plug. I'm currently looking into either purchasing or borrowing an impact tool. Hopefully I can get it off with that otherwise Im not sure what Ill do.

 

Use a six point socket. It won't chew up the head of the plug.

 

Do you mean the head of the plug is rounding off? I remember a couple years ago someone had that problem. Don't know if they ever got it out or not. I recommend getting a 6 sided box end wrench (yes, they can be hard to find) putting a piece of blue cloth/paper between the wrench and the plug, and with the wrench sticking down toward the bottom of the bike, take a metal hammer, and just tap on the wrench for awhile. It should eventually loosen. Patience is important. A new plug is fairly cheap, stripped threads in the case are not. You might also try running the engine for about 10 minutes to get it nice and warm first. Whatever you do, don't just put a wrench or socket on it and put 150 ft.lbs. of torque on it. If it is badly stuck, that will likely crack the case. Take your time. It will eventually come out, even if the threads are stripped. Unlike exhaust studs/nuts, which can actually weld themselves together, that can't happen to an oil drain plug. That area does not get hot enough.

 

With a 12 point socket it's almost guaranteed to round off a bolt head, and with a 6 point if it isn't really really snug or one of the new fangeled mechanics' style that has lugs/lobes to pressure the flats instead of the points. (see attachment)
Trying both SAE and METRIC sockets and you might find that prefect fit with the wrong one :wink2: to remove an 'at-risk' bolt.

This (see other attachments) is the type of tool needed to get past that problem, pressure on the arm jams the head in tighter on the flats instead of pressuring the points.
spiral sockets are also made just for the purpose of trying to get a rounded off bolt out...