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I'm a fairly new owner of a 2005 Honda Rebel 250. Recently it has been bogging down when I change gears and try to accerlate. Does anyone know what is causing this?

It also idles a little rough. I called the shop and they said a tune up, oil change, and carb work might be necessary. Can anyone tell me how to do this on my own so I don't get charged the $180?? Thanks!!

My boyfriend used to do all this stuff but now that I'm single I'm finding it rather pricey. If its simple i can proabably do it myself :)

Emily
2005 Honda Rebel 250
 

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1st step: try running some seafoam in your fuel

if that doesn't work after a tank or 2, then

2nd step: drain carb. disconnect fuel line from petcock. fill carb with seafoam & let soak 2 days. drain. put fuel line back on & try again.

if that still doesn't improve it:

3rd step: take carb off, disassemble & clean out the jets (.009 guitar string) then put back together & put back on bike. (not as hard as it might sound, all instructions are here on the forum, with pics)

Plus the helpful people here will guide you thru if you need it.
They will probably have their own advice too. But definitely give the seafoam a whirl first.
 

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The thing is a "tune up" is such a general term for a variety of things.
Breaking it down in to service procedures takes the mystery out of it.
Changing your spark plugs is about as easy as it can be.
Changing your air filter is also a very basic thing that you can easily do with minimal tools.
Those right there are two components of a "tune up"
Changing the oil can be a bit messy but it is also a simple operation.
Draining the breather tube requires little muscle and is very easy.
 

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Yeah, they will quote you 180 for a "tune up" then when that doesn't work they will get you for more when they need to "rebuild" the carb.
Avoid the whole mess and do the Seafoam thing first. But it's still a good idea to change your oil, airfilter and plugs. Plus if you've had the bike for 2 years plus the brake fluid will need changing.
Having a boyfriend/ mechanic is a perk that people often take for granted. That's what I tell my wife often.:whistling::lol2:
 

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And you might try waiting a little longer to shift, when the engine rpms are higher. The engine is designed, and likes to run, at high rpms.
 

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Having a boyfriend/ mechanic is a perk that people often take for granted. That's what I tell my wife often.:whistling::lol2:
Thanks bB you've just reminded me that I need to remind my wife about that again...
 

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Hi schnookie, when you say "bogs down", do you mean the bike feels like it's slowing down a lot AS you change (ie, when you pull in the clutch), or you mean its slow to accelerate AFTER a gear change?

If it's slowing right down mid-change, jack the bike up and check the wheels are spinning freely. I had this problem recently - turns out the front brake still worked but had seized a little, so the front wheel hardly turned at all. Also worth checking the bearings if slowing down is your problem.

If it's slow to accelerate after changing, could be a bunch of things.. carb, air filter, an air leak (check all air hoses are sealed to the air box with silicone and not cracked or split), spark plugs...

Start with the cheap stuff and work your way up. +1 for seafoam, that works wonders, and what the other guys suggested
 

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Problem and possible solution

I have a 2007 Honda Rebel that was doing the same thing. As for it bogging down. Your problem is most likely the air filter. Take the air filter off, and try turning it on. Dont drive it or youll have to clean out the carb. If it sounds better it is probably the air filter and even if it isnt its probably good to change it anyways. As for the idle speed you can adjust that on the right side of the motorcycle and it should sound better. Also changing the spark plugs and changing the oil also helps. You should be able to get a tune up for $70. If you cant do it your self I would suggest getting it done there. the air filter is around $30-50 including shipping. If you do order it be prepared to wait. As it takes a few weeks for it to come from japan. :( Good luck.
James Handson
 

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welcome to forum zeromagic .:thumb:
 

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I've got a 1985 cmx 250 and honestly it's been annoying me that its bogging down in 4th and 5th gear. Wont go past 55mph and I've given the carb a good 24h soak in chem dip (no plastic or rubber was on it during this), cleaned all rubber parts and they are new or in great shape, all gaskets are there. Fuel filter was cleaned out as well and the jets in carb are new. Any ideas?
 

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Might be the ignition advance in the ignition box has failed . But I think you still have a dirty carby . Some times you need to clean carby many times before it is properly clean
 

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Does the engine rev when giving it throttle in 4th and 5th, but the speed doesn't increase or actually goes down? If yes, sounds like the clutch is slipping. If not, I'm with wjmrty on the carb still being dirty. IMO, 48 hours soaking in Chem Dip is a minimum, and longer could be even better, especially if you don't like to repeat the process!
 

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That is built in to the box and not adjustable you would need a new one
 

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You can find a used cdi box on ebay. They usually go for $50 - $90 OEM used, there are also some Chinese replacements for $30 - $40 with variable results.
 

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John120_0 - Before you buy a cdi box, make sure the slide diaphragm on your carburetor is a) installed properly, and b) has no tear or rips. When this slide diaphragm is not installed properly, or has a rip or tear, the slide will not lift all the way up in the throttle bore. This limits the amount of air the engine will receive, and also proportionately limits the amount of fuel the engine receives. So it runs very nice, it just doesn't have the power it needs to run past certain speeds. Which tends to be exacerbated at higher speeds, where all the few cute little horsies available with this engine are more needed. In lower gears, it can get by more easier with less horsepower.

And, FYI - the "certain speed" varies with how bad the diaphragm is leaking vacuum.
 
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