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Discussion Starter #1
I have verified the contacts inside the kill switch look good, tried cranking on recharged battery with and without a jumper connected, kickstand up, in neutral and with clutch pulled in. I have tested primary and secondary coil resistance (all within range, except seems a little low without boot pushed on).

So, what else could I test before the peak voltage adapter arrives next week?

Perhaps somehow one of the switches in bad and is grounding things out?

I am pretty dense when it comes to electricity testing. Where is the wiring harness even located where I would be disconnecting switches?
 

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If you have a service manual, see if it has a diagram of the wiring harness. That may help you find the connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I tested the primary coil and it doesn't seem that my meter is precise enough to measure that. My leads touched together shows .5 and the primary side reads .6-.7 so it seems ballpark right. The secondary side however reads 7.6k which seems to be 2x spec per my Clymer manual. Both coils read about the same though so it makes me wonder why both would be similarly bad. Is that range a hard and fast requirement? I hate to buy parts if they aren't needed.

I also plugged in my old spark plugs for kicks (just changed out to iridium, but pretty sure that was before the problems started) but those also gave no spark.
 
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