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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a 1997 Rebel 250 that ran great and is very clean. After only a handful of rides it wouldn't start and has no power when I turn on the ignition (no lights or any auxiliary power). I have tested the battery and it is good, the ground off the battery is good, and my fuses are good. I was able to push start it once and it ran poorly but I wasn't able to get it to idle on a second push start. I had an old truck with a similar problem that turned out to be a bad ground connection but I only know of the one ground on this bike, any ideas or suggestions are helpful.
 

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Knolly - Electrons and I do not see eye-to-eye. They always do the opposite of what my brain believes they are doing. So take anything I say with a grain of sand.

To me, it sounds like you are going in the right direction, with the thought about the grounding. Check the connection where the ground comes off the battery and attaches to the bike.

However, since electrons do the opposite of what I think … check the positive side of the battery, and those connections. And … I believe I've read an instance (not Rebel related) where a battery tested good, yet replacing it was the only thing that solved the problem. But like I said, electrons and I don't have a good relationship.


7milesout
 

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Welcome to the forum.

Have you pulled the plugs to check their condition and see if there is spark on both cylinders? Did you remove the ground wire at the frame and confirm both the contacts and cable are free of corrosion? How did you check the battery, with a volt meter? I had a battery that showed 12 volts, but it wouldn't turn the engine over due to low amps. If it will start being jumped from a car battery (be sure the car engine isn't running) the battery is weak.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't think its an issue with battery power I think it's in the wiring somewhere because there is literally no power when I turn the key. No dim lights, no horn, nothing. Is there a second ground wire on this bike I haven't located? Or maybe an essential wiring component that commonly fails?
 

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It may very well be something other than the battery, but it doesn't cost anything to jump it. If you have power when connected to the car battery, it tells you something. Fuses can be bad and still look good. I'd use a meter to check every fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I checked fuses with a meter, could the starter solenoid be the problem? how would I test mine?
 

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I don't believe the starter solenoid would prevent all the other lights from coming on (like headlight, taillight, blinkers, speedometer illumination, or the horn from sounding).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After slapping the starter solenoid relay around I have auxiliary power but no starter, the lights do get brighter when I hit the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
then the lights would come on normal power and dim when I hit the starter like normal. After a while I lost all power to the bike again. I'm replacing the starter solenoid relay to see if that's the issue.
 

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I would put a charger on the battery and try starting it to ensure you have the amperage. I would also check out the on/off switch and/or the start button to rule the out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I replaced the starter relay and now the bike runs great but I still have to bump start it. I'll check out the battery closer to see if it needs replaced
 

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Do you remember back when I said, "electrons and I don't see eye to eye." And, "thus, do the opposite of what I suggest." And that, "I don't think the starter relay would have anything to do with this?"

I was right … to do the opposite of what I suggest. Good job Knolly!
 
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