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I just stumbled across this thread... I put 10W-30 oil in about a month ago bc that was the cheapest I found, and the manual said it's OK for my temp range. Seeing the comments on this thread, however, has me worried. What in 10W-30 oil ruins motorcycle clutches but not car clutches? Are all oils with the same rating created equal or should I really stick to a few tested-and-true brands? I haven't noticed anything bad with my clutch or shifting since putting in the new oil, what should I be on the lookout for?
 

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85 CMX 250C, 82 GW Remember that you are invisible, treat all others accordingly. Avoids Road RAGE!
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Whatever you do. Make sure that the oil that you use is not the "energy conserving" type. That will cause the clutch to slip badly!
10W40 is good for all but the most severely hot riding conditions.
 

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Unless the 10W-30 was motorcycle specific oil, it's bad for the clutch. See my response to your other post.

Most motorcycles have "wet" clutches that are bathed in oil. Most car clutches are dry.
 
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85 CMX 250C, 82 GW Remember that you are invisible, treat all others accordingly. Avoids Road RAGE!
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I was planning to mention that but got distracted! Dry clutch vs wet, is something that is a new concept to many.
 

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^ From a ~9 year old thread, here's what you're looking for on the back of oil containers. If you have trouble finding regular engine oil (not motorcycle specific) that's non-energy-conserving, I've found that most brands that carry a full synthetic for European vehicles fit the bill.
 

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^ From a ~9 year old thread, here's what you're looking for on the back of oil containers. If you have trouble finding regular engine oil (not motorcycle specific) that's non-energy-conserving, I've found that most brands that carry a full synthetic for European vehicles fit the bill.
Clutch slippage is not the only consideration when concidering auto v motorcycle oil. Back in the day, 1980's, auto oil had plenty of zinc. It has been found zinc damages catylistic converters, so the zinc content has been reduced to half the old level. Motorcycle oil has a high zinc content to help lubricate older style cam and tappets used on many motorcycles. Note the zinc content on Moble1 motorcycle oils.
 

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Member Buickguy put over 100,000 miles on his '87 model with conventional Castrol GTX 10W-40.
 

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I hadn't thought about that. That extra zinc and phosphorus content probably does something for filling the wear gaps in tappets and cylinder walls, huh? I'm still not sure whether the differences would be noticeable between oil types, especially given Buickguy is assumedly running the original motor.

Surely if you can get 100,000 miles out of a relatively old engine, the cylinder walls would be the least of your concerns? Valves, cams, chain, bearings, etc. If after ~30 years, your cylinder head is showing extreme wear, is it feasible to just get a new casting? Or cheap Chinese knock-off, over bored with a precision-made (heavy metals) sleeve to fit?
 

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So far, all XXW-40 and XXW-50 oil in the U.S. still don't contain friction modifiers, so either one should work. XXW-50 should only be used in extremely high temperature climates.
 
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