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85 CMX 250C, 82 GW Remember that you are invisible, treat all others accordingly. Avoids Road RAGE!
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1st, I'd take a hair drier or carefully use a heat gun to the wires. Then, spray 'wire dry' onto them. This should temporarily stop the short, if this is indeed the cause. Although this isn't actually testing the wire, it provides a fast test that proved the fault on mine in quite short (pun intended) order.
 

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Because you stated your problem occurred right after checking your spark plugs, you had to move the spark wires in order to check the plugs. This probably cracked one of the very old wires which the rubber had hardened precipitating your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I think there's a very good chance that's the problem Emil. I took a look at the wires today but couldn't see much without removing them. Will arcing happen as a result of loose connection as well as cracked wires? I'd rather fix them than replace if I can help it but not sure how to go about the diagnosis. I'll do the water spray test tonight. Also, how do I remove these dang things without ruining the coil?
 

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The coils are reversible. You can carefully move the left for right & vice versa. If the problem follows, it is the coil or the wire.
And yes a loose connection can effect the spark. But, the cracks will cause the worst part of the problem.
 

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If the wires are cracked, the water will almost instantly kill the engine. If you dry them as explained earlier, & spray them with the wire dry, the water might not kill the engine. When I was young and perpetually broke, I did this then taped the wires with high voltage electrical tape. (The linemen for the electric companies have always been very accommodating in this if you ask respectfully.) It worked for another year or 2.
When I worked on the lines, it was within my authority to help any prospective customers in the same way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
Alright guys, so it appears the problem with misfiring is coming from a lack of air (explains the over-rich plugs). When I pull out the air filter it runs like new, no misfiring or anything. When I put it back in it once again struggles to get above 25mph. To me it seems like there are 2 solutions:

1) Adjust the pilot screw so that it increases the AFR. Air is being throttled by the filter so the AFR is too low, increasing it should solve the problem, right?

2) Clean/replace the air filter

The only reason I suggest option 1 is that I haven't touched the air filter since I've gotten it. If it was running fine before, why would it stop now without me changing anything? The same isn't true of the pilot screw, however. The first time I cleaned the carb I reset it to 2 3/4 out which is standard, but that seems to be when the issues started. What route would you guys take? How easy is it to clean an air filter? Then again, I'm almost at 20k miles which is when I'm supposed to replace it. Is there a cheaper manufacturer I can get it from or just bite the bullet and go OEM?
 

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Why not replace the filter first, then see how she runs? eBay has filters for $13, Oem a little more than twice that…i have a cheap one on mine, seems to be fine.
 

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On Gen 1, I just wash & oil the filter & I'm good to go!
It's just strange to me that you don't notice it in lower gears.
Yes! Air filter 1st. If you still have an issue, then I'd try turning the screw in a little at a time until it runs better. If that is, threading it in, lessens the fuel in the mixture. I'm presently very tired, so a little unsure.
 
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
OK, ordered a new air filter and it should be here in a few days. I've ridden my bike a few times with the air filter off, and it runs great, really excited to get the new filter on and tune the bike properly. One thing I've noticed though is that the airbox spills oil like no tomorrow, obviously coming through the breather tube from the breather chamber. I know that normally the tube is hooked up to the filter, but I thought that was mainly to recycle gasses and that little oil was supposed to be coming through. This didn't happen before I took the filter off, but I can't see how putting one on would suck only air and stop the oil. I'm guessing my puke tube is clogged and I'll clean that first thing tomorrow, but just wanted to know if there's anything to be on the lookout for. Could this be the reason that my original air filter got soiled in the first place? The oil is a milky caramel color if that means anything.

Side-note: I put 10w-30 oil in about a month ago and didn't realize that was a problem til I was reading another forum. I'll change that soon for 10w-40 but wanted to know if there's anything else I should look for in motor oil. I understand the numbers are viscosity ratings, but are all 10w-40s pretty much the same? Are there a select few brands I should just stick to? What's the difference between normal, high mileage, and daily protection oils?
 

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there are different additives and different amounts of additives in the oil, for cleaning, lubricating, cooling, and staining your concrete garage floor. the Jaso Ma rating and viscosity recommended by the manufacturer should be your best guide, oil prices aren't that much different between brands so you ain't gonna save/spend a fortune over a bike's lifetime by going with one brand or another , motors on the other hand can get a bit pricey.
 

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Be ready to replace the clutch fiber plates. All it took for me to ruin the clutch was one round of 10W-30. Hope it doesn't happen to you, but it likely will. Once those friction modifiers get into the plates, they can't be flushed out - many have tried.
 

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There should only be a little oil coming from the breather tube, very little !

If you got an oil well there, there are two possibilitys. First: you filled much too much Oil into the Motor. This often happens because of measuring the Oil level with the bike on the sidestand, instead keeping it vertikal and level.
Second : there might be an earnest problem with pistons and rings. Since it seems to run good without the clogged airfilter it´s rather the first.
 
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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
It seems like the #1 thing I want to avoid is friction modifiers. As far as I understand, oils 10w-30 and below must state if they contain them with the "energy conserving" stamped on it. However that isn't the case with 10w-40. It seems like you really have to do your research and delve i to the product sheets. That's why I ask if you guys have any go-to brands that you know don't contain them. I'm not trying to dump money on motorcycle oil when it seems like there's no appreciable effect, but I don't want to risk using an oil that could or could not contain clutch destroying components. What recommendations have ye?
 

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Look for oil with Jaso MA 1/ MA 2 Specification. (Oil for use with wet-clutches.)
Oil with milky caramel colour means you got water in it. Water & oil form an emulsion . It should be changed ASAP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Sure enough my oil was overfilled, thanks Panic Pete! I changed it today and it seems to have stopped leaking for the time being. It runs so much better already. Thanks so much for all the advice, you guys really know what you're doing!
 

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Sometimes 1 mistake can have a cascade effect. Yours is a case in point (albiet a short cascade). Too much oil>clogged air filter>problems running at top speed. Each of us need to be correct in the maintenance or unexpected circumstances crop up.
Nice job Panic Pete
 
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