I have a 1986 honda rebel with a little over 5k miles on it. I broke the clutch cable on it, and ended up breaking the wires that go into the clutch handle. I resoldered the cables back in, and fixed the cable but now when I shift into any gear the bike stalls (it doesnt shut off). I took the clutch out, put a new one in, checked the lever that actually pushes on the clutch and everything seems fine. I still have the same problem though. What could be wrong?
If the cable has no slack in it, that that could be a major part of the problem. Especially if you are to turn. There needs to be enough slack in the cable for it to work properly.
When you pull the actuator by hand, you may not be able to have enough power to get it the same point you would with the clutch lever.
Turn the handelbars all the way ro the right. This should give a little slack. While in 1st or 2nd gear pull the clutch lever & try to push the bike in a circle. Is it still locked up?
It still remains stuck in gear :/ Its possible I'm missing a piece that someone else pointed out, but I'm not sure. Is there any way you could explain what happens in the disk when clutch is engaged vs disengaged?
When the clutch lever is pulled it twists part 5 on bottom image which pushes part 12 on top image which in turn pushes part 3 away from part 1 and allows the disks to spin without friction. As far as I know the clutch basket is the same for both type actuators.
assembly 13 9 21 top image goes with assembly 4 7 12 8 15 top image - this is what @Emil has shown
Looks like you have the other style of clutch actuator. @Emil has the pushrod type. Yours is the needle thrust bearing type from my limited experience is more rare. The parts 12 22 20 17 14 8 are shown backwards - do you have all the parts shown?
01-7700 had this pic & question "do you remember seeing part #13 - a rod with rounded ends"
I once found this in my drain pan when I had replaced my clutch. I had to take it back apart to put it back in. That pin is what the clutch actuator presses to disengage the clutch.
I just took mine apart to show you how it looks.
P.S. I needed to change the oil anyway. I have never found anything on my 'filter' screen, even after I'd replaced the clutch.
I took it apart for 2 reasons.
1) was to help you out & that I didn't want to post a picture from the manual because of possible "copyright Infringment".
2) I wanted to check the filter screen & do an oil change, because I'd replaced the clutch about 4000 miles ago. It was as always, clean.
Happy to help.
Shadow99Remember that there are 2 different designs for clutch activation.
You are asking for parts from the other design.
The pictures that you provided show that you have the 12, 17, 20, & 22 design. So 9 & 13 wouldn't fit.
However, if you want to change designs to the "more standard" version, the actuator & bearing would also need to be changed.
@01-7700@Emil Guys!!!!!! I fixed it! Emil was right about the cable.... Although it seemed like it was pulling the actuator enough, it wasnt. I only needed to adjust it slightly, but adding more tension is what ultimately fixed it....
My clutch literally doesnt require those extra parts to work at all. The round actuator pushes on the bearing in the clutch in order to compress the clutch, which gives the plates free reign. Thabk you guys soooooo much for all the help and trouble shooting..... this has been a massive headache, but I'm so glad it's over. Now to get this thing fouled up and try the new bars!
Seems to work well. Are they mounted solidly? They cannot move? Those would be my worries.
I am concerned that several of the stop signs seem to be burned out.
I got a ticket one time here in Ohio because I didn't put both feet down at a stop. (I had 1 foot down.)
Ohio law States that you are at a complete stop if you put both feet down flat. The Rebel is one of the few bikes that almost everyone can put both feet down flat.
Someone needs to educate the Ohio authorities about why putting both feet down isn't a good idea when stopped at an intersection. Riders at an intersection should have the left foot down, bike in first gear (clutch lever pulled in), with right foot on brake, right hand on throttle, and periodically checking mirrors for approaching vehicles that may not stop. If a vehicle approaching from the rear isn't going to stop, the rider can quickly execute their previously selected escape plan. Harder to do with two feet down.
I've gotten used to keeping my feet up around my neighborhood, but I try to always put em down now. Thanks for the tip, I actually didn't know this lol.
Like flitecontrol said, left foot down, right foot on the brake, motorcycle in first gear, left hand on the clutch, right hand on the throttle. This is the safest stance. Mirrors checked frequently as well, being ready to move quickly as needed.
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