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It still remains stuck in gear :/ Its possible I'm missing a piece that someone else pointed out, but I'm not sure. Is there any way you could explain what happens in the disk when clutch is engaged vs disengaged?
110819
110820

When the clutch lever is pulled it twists part 5 on bottom image which pushes part 12 on top image which in turn pushes part 3 away from part 1 and allows the disks to spin without friction. As far as I know the clutch basket is the same for both type actuators.

assembly 13 9 21 top image goes with assembly 4 7 12 8 15 top image - this is what @Emil has shown

you have the other type
 

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"Just doing what I can, Sire."
Shadow99 was up working on it until 4AM my time. We all need to sleep sometime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
View attachment 110819 View attachment 110820
When the clutch lever is pulled it twists part 5 on top image which pushes part 12 on bottom image which in turn pushes part 3 away from part 1 and allows the disks to spin without friction. As far as I know the clutch basket is the same for both type actuators.

assembly 13 9 21 top image goes with assembly 4 7 12 8 15 bottom image - this is what @Emil has shown

you have the other type
Gotcha, so I'll try and order that piece. But for now I'm gonna keep looking to see where it could have gone.
View attachment 110816 View attachment 110817 I just took mine apart to show you how it looks.
P.S. I needed to change the oil anyway. I have never found anything on my 'filter' screen, even after I'd replaced the clutch.
Thanks for taking it apart man, I was thinking mine might be different from other 1st gens. I'm curious, where does the oil drain from on the rebel. I know it eventually comes out from underneath the crankcase, but where does it start flowing from? I wanna see if my piece is maybe stuck in the piping or something.
Looks like you have the other style of
wow! going the extra mile to help a member
I dont think I have all the parts but I'll check again. What's throwing me off here is that you say parts 12, 20, 22 etc are backwards...
 

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I took it apart for 2 reasons.
1) was to help you out & that I didn't want to post a picture from the manual because of possible "copyright Infringment".
2) I wanted to check the filter screen & do an oil change, because I'd replaced the clutch about 4000 miles ago. It was as always, clean.
Happy to help.
 
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
good idea - i have a bucket of parts maybe i have what you need
I'll send pics tomorrow, I forgot to take some. I'm just missing 9 and 13 though. If you have those parts I could send you some cash if youd be willing to part, or I could make you some custom art.... Instagram.com/shinobitechnique
 

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Shadow99Remember that there are 2 different designs for clutch activation.
You are asking for parts from the other design.
The pictures that you provided show that you have the 12, 17, 20, & 22 design. So 9 & 13 wouldn't fit.
However, if you want to change designs to the "more standard" version, the actuator & bearing would also need to be changed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Shadow99Remember that there are 2 different designs for clutch activation.
You are asking for parts from the other design.
The pictures that you provided show that you have the 12, 17, 20, & 22 design. So 9 & 13 wouldn't fit.
However, if you want to change designs to the "more standard" version, the actuator & bearing would also need to be changed.
@01-7700 @Emil Guys!!!!!! I fixed it! Emil was right about the cable.... Although it seemed like it was pulling the actuator enough, it wasnt. I only needed to adjust it slightly, but adding more tension is what ultimately fixed it....
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
My clutch literally doesnt require those extra parts to work at all. The round actuator pushes on the bearing in the clutch in order to compress the clutch, which gives the plates free reign. Thabk you guys soooooo much for all the help and trouble shooting..... this has been a massive headache, but I'm so glad it's over. Now to get this thing fouled up and try the new bars!
 

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Very good to hear.
 
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Glad it was a simple fix!
 
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Seems to work well. Are they mounted solidly? They cannot move? Those would be my worries.
I am concerned that several of the stop signs seem to be burned out.
I got a ticket one time here in Ohio because I didn't put both feet down at a stop. (I had 1 foot down.)
 

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Ohio law States that you are at a complete stop if you put both feet down flat. The Rebel is one of the few bikes that almost everyone can put both feet down flat.
 

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Someone needs to educate the Ohio authorities about why putting both feet down isn't a good idea when stopped at an intersection. Riders at an intersection should have the left foot down, bike in first gear (clutch lever pulled in), with right foot on brake, right hand on throttle, and periodically checking mirrors for approaching vehicles that may not stop. If a vehicle approaching from the rear isn't going to stop, the rider can quickly execute their previously selected escape plan. Harder to do with two feet down.
 

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If the training course says.., this & so, it should match the law. (Or the law should be adjusted to match the practical wisdom of the course).
 

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The latter, IMO. I doubt a motorcycle rider wrote that law. Many bikes are too tall, or their riders too short, to put both feet down.
 
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