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Hey forum, I’m nee here and new to riding. I’ve recently purchased a rebel 250 2013 that I’ve been converting into a bobber, I’ve removed all the stock tail and brake lights and turn signals and I purchased a pair of new rear turn signals from bobbercycle that I’ve not been able to get working. (I’ve installed also an aftermarket tail light and license place light) The new signals have 3 wires each and the bike only has 2 wires for each signal, has anyone done this? I can get the lights to turn on for each direction properly but they will not flash.sorry that’s a lot to read Thank you for any help!!!
 

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I'm no expert but from past experience, I'd say that the new signal bulbs do not provide enough resistance to trigger the flasher unit.
There are units sold to fix this and I've used them in the past, pre LED days. The name Mustang comes to mind as a brand, I remember paying about $20 for them. But why do all that wiring?
IMO, the simpler (read cheaper and easier) solution would be to try a flasher designed for LED bulbs which have much lower resistance and offer adjustable flash rates. They are available at auto parts stores or on eBay.
 

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Thanks for the reply! Interesting, the flashers are plug and play i assume? If i were to replace with new flashers, wouldn’t my wiring issue still be the same? Or are they supposed to help signals flash flash when they aren’t?
 

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I don't believe you have a wiring issue you have a low resistance issue.
 

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I'm not an electrician by any means, but know only two wires should be needed. I have no idea what the third wire on the new signals is for; maybe a secondary ground? If the new lights are LEDs, or smaller wattage than stock, as Bobarama suggested, they don't have enough resistance to trigger the OEM thermal flasher. All you have to do to get around that issue is install an electronic flasher. there are quite a few threads on the subject, so try a search. Several folks have listed the electronic flasher they used that is a plug and play replacement.
 

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3 wire signals have a dim running light always on function along with a brighter flashing signal mode..
Old 1157 bulbs accomplished this having 2 filaments one of a higher wattage thus brighter with common ground.. 1157 bulbs are/were common as brake/running light as well as in turn signal/marker lamp applications..

LED versions have an internal resistor that reduces voltage to an array of leds when running light on..
a diode prevents feedback when brake switch activated while higher voltage brighten led array...
109594
 
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