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Honda Rebel 250 - Carb Removal - Classic - `85 -`87

63K views 80 replies 24 participants last post by  flitecontrol  
Loosening the nuts will allow the cable to be removed from the bracket that holds them stationary. Once they are free of the bracket you can twist the cable pulley to get enough slack to slide the barrel ends out of the pulley.
 
If you get the gallon bucket of ChemDip it has a parts basket inside and you just soak the parts in the bucket.
 
You need to remove the bracket that the side covers bolt to and the carb bolts to the manifold with 2 nuts instead of it being attached by a hose clamp like the 85-87 Rebels.
 
The manifold is number 6. The 2 nuts that have to be removed to get the carb off are the 2 that go through the number 5 gasket.

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The bracket that has to be removed is behind the carb, the side covers bolt to it. Other than the different manifold and this bracket the carb is removed just like in this thread.
 
You can use some needle nose vice grips to break it loose or you can use a Dremel to cut a slot in the head and use a regular screwdriver or you can drill it and use an EZ out.
 
Shen is right, that bracket doesn't need to be removed to remove the carb, the cables just need to be taken loose at that end.
 
Use an open end or box end wrench to remove the nut holding the carb to the intake manifold then you don't have to remove the cable bracket.
 
You need to open the air box and remove the filter then push the hose that connects the carb to the air box to the inside of the air box.
 
You have to remove that bracket. It shouldn't be that hard, if something is in the way move it or use a different tool, which ever works. The hoses you're talking about are vent hoses and have to exit to the atmosphere in order for everything to flow right.
 
The glue is fairly easy to break loose by hand. Just push the rubber boot in from the sides to break the glue loose then push the whole boot inside the air box. You will need to remove the air filter from inside the air box first.