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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 87 rebel i'm restoring. It has a severe hesitation (almost dies) at low rpm/low throttle (about 1500 rpm-ish). Idles good and accelerates great, once past the hesitation. I think i have a bad coil or bad CDI. The hesitation has been there since i got it. Since i got it, i have done the following and the problem still persists.

Cleaned carb.
Replaced jets in carb.
Replaced accelerator pump in carb.
Changed engine from 2005 rebel. (This is because the previous owner destroyed the exhaust manifold bolt holes and the oil drain bolt). I used the stater from the 87 and carb manifold from the 87.

After doing all of this, it still runs the exact same.

I did notice that the cylinder on the clutch side has a week spark compared the the stater side when turning the motor over with the starter with the spark plugs out of the motor against grounded against the head. I think the problem might be a weak coil or bad CDI. I have the CDI and coils from the 2005. I'm going to swap both of the coils and CDI. Looking at posts on this forum, they are wired different. The Gen1 has two separate ignition coil wires and no kick stand wire. So I need to send one of the black/yellow wires to ground and the other to both coils. Easy enough.

Here is my question...

Which yellow/black wire goes to the stator side and which one goes to the clutch side. I can trace it with an ohm meter, but I don't want to buy one just to use it once.
 

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You'll find the answer to your question in this thread here for the wiring on CDI. Both coils (Yellow black) fire at the same time.

https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f12/f12/f12/f12/f12/f80/...ml#post1174297

The new wiring you basically run both YB together. Ground for the kickstand switch portion. Thread does a good job explaining with multiple diagrams and instructions. (Thanks goes to SoakedKarma for wiring)

As far as coils are concerned you'll want to test each coil, primary and secondary coils to determine a failing coil. Attached are the specs. Primary coil will be the two posts on the back OHM test at 200 and then each post to the end of the spark plug wire at 20K test.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm going to do this a different way. Instead of making a male/female adapter at the CDI, I'm going to make two jumpers. One takes the wire that currently goes to one of the coils, unplug it and send it to ground. Then I'm going to make a jumper to connect the two coils together. I don't want to pick the wrong one to send to ground and risk frying my Gen2 CDI. I'm going to pickup a cheep ohm meter today and trace the two so i send the proper one to ground and the proper one to both coils. I'll post the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here is what i am going to try. Sorry it is a primitive diagram. All parts can be purchased at an auto parts store. This should be 100 percent reversible and taps into the existing harness using the butt connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I made my connectors. Same idea as other posts... just tapping in a different way. I'm sending one to ground and the other to both coils. I still need to trace which one of the yellow/black wires in the harness is which. I know the pin out for the CDI.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well... that won't work. The connections are either direct in the Gen 1 or they are deep inside the wire harness, which i do not want to take apart. I'm making different adapters today that do the same thing, but tap directly into the connectors at the coils.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
BTW... Anyone following. Just to make sure, I installed the 2nd gen intake and carb over the weekend and it acts the same. To completely rule out carb issues, i went ahead and bought the entire carb assembly brand new from partzilla for $355 plus TTL. I'll install it later this week when it arrives. I still think it is a CDI, but I have always been impressed with how a brand new factory carb makes an old bike run. Even when an old carb is cleaned well, It is still not the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here is what i created. Now both cylinders fire all the time, but i still have off idle hesitation. Both the carbs that I have must still be gunked up. I think the small cap (on the bowl side of the main carb body just under the off idle jet passages) holds fuel and can gunk up easily. Looks like it could be hard to remove without a really good soaking. I'm glad gas stations now exist where i live that have non ethanol fuel. That and a cap full of Stabil per tank. I can ride year round, so they should never sit for more than a week or two. The new carb shipped and will arrive tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I rode the rebel for a while yesterday. It definitely runs a lot better than it did with the original CDI. One of the the cylinders would stop firing intermittently before the CDI swap. I did notice that i purchased the most expensive year model carb. I probably could have bought one from 2012 or 2016. Does anyone know what the real difference is between the different versions of Gen 2 carbs? All of them are either in stock or will ship within 2-3 days.

2005 16100-KEN-671 $355
2012 16100-KEN-B11 $262
2016 16100-K17-681 $273
 

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I'm not aware of any performance differences. The air/fuel adjustment screw is covered by a cap beginning in 2014 IIRC.

I'd get the cheapest if I was buying a new one. But I'm not convinced that a thorough cleaning doesn't restore full performance. And on that note, if you bought a new one, do you want to sell the old one as I'm interested if you are?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I'll sell the Gen2 carb... it came off a 2005. I have not decided on the Gen 1/ 1987 carb yet. Currently the Gen 2 carb is on the bike and it is runs descent. I think the off idle circuit needs cleaning. I got sick of taking the carb on and off and then swapping the intake and carb. I don't want to keep messing with the carb, so i bought a new one.
 

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Sent you a PM.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
For anyone following... It runs fantastic now!!!! Everything from idle to wide open throttle is smooth like it is right off the showroom floor. I didn't make ANY adjustments, just mounted it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have an 87 rebel i'm restoring. It has a severe hesitation (almost dies) at low rpm/low throttle (about 1500 rpm-ish). Idles good and accelerates great, once past the hesitation. I think i have a bad coil or bad CDI. The hesitation has been there since i got it. Since i got it, i have done the following and the problem still persists.

Cleaned carb.
Replaced jets in carb.
Replaced accelerator pump in carb.
Changed engine from 2005 rebel. (This is because the previous owner destroyed the exhaust manifold bolt holes and the oil drain bolt). I used the stater from the 87 and carb manifold from the 87.

After doing all of this, it still runs the exact same.

I did notice that the cylinder on the clutch side has a week spark compared the the stater side when turning the motor over with the starter with the spark plugs out of the motor against grounded against the head. I think the problem might be a weak coil or bad CDI. I have the CDI and coils from the 2005. I'm going to swap both of the coils and CDI. Looking at posts on this forum, they are wired different. The Gen1 has two separate ignition coil wires and no kick stand wire. So I need to send one of the black/yellow wires to ground and the other to both coils. Easy enough.

Here is my question...

Which yellow/black wire goes to the stator side and which one goes to the clutch side. I can trace it with an ohm meter, but I don't want to buy one just to use it once.
The answer to my original question is... The black/yellow wire that goes to the coil on the stator side has to be routed to both coils and the wire going to the clutch side needs to be sent to ground. All of this can be done with two small adapters an tucks nicely into the coil rubber boots.
 
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