What bike do you have exactly? Put it in your signature, and we can help you better.

 

If you have OEM sprockets (14/33) replacement chain is 520 x 108. replacement chains come with master link.

 

Sorry I have a 2005 Honda Rebel 250. Now what do those dimensions stand for, the 520 by 108?

And for a 15/33 set up, what would be the ideal chain?

 

And unless you change sprockets there is no need to ever add or cut links from a chain after it is installed. If it elongates to the point that taking a link out is necessary, it is worn beyond its service life and needs to be replaced.
Roller chain does not "stretch".The pins wear down making the center to center distance of a link (chain pitch ) just a little longer than it should be because of the worn pins. Once the chain pitch is significantly longer than it should be, sprockets are quickly worn out

 

520 is the link size and 108 is the number of links. 108 is the stock length and will be fine to run a 15t with.

 

Thanks! I went into the Honda Dealer today, and he jokingly told me he wouldn't service my bike because he doesn't think anyone should have to deal with rivet chains lol. So he advised me to check my sprockets and as long as everything is swell, just to grab a new "clip-on" (I think that's what he said) 520/108 chain and be on my way.

 

Your Rebel has a continuous chain meaning no master link and to replace it with the same chain you have to remove the swing arm to install it which is quite a bit of work just to replace a chain. Replace it with a chain that has a master link and it doesn't take long but you'll have to either use a chain breaking tool or grind the rivets off to remove your old chain.

 

This is cheap obviously, but for the price I can replace it 5 times for the price of an OEM one. This will fit right?

BikeMaster 520 Standard Chain - BikeBandit.com

 

This is cheap obviously, but for the price I can replace it 5 times for the price of an OEM one. This will fit right?

BikeMaster 520 Standard Chain - BikeBandit.com

It is cheap, it's a non-o-ring chain. I had one on my bike just like it, same brand and it would stretch easily and needed adjusted weekly. I only put about 3k miles on it before I bought a better one. I wouldn't recommend buying it.

 

watching the informative video for the chain in your link. how to.

 

$20 more, and you can get over 8K lbs tensile strength: DID D.I.D 520 VX2 X-RING CHAIN: 108 LINKS | eBay

If this ad can be believed, this one is also about 8K lbs strength: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-...Links-/380287874322?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588aec7512&vxp=mtr

 

In my experience, stay with the OEM chain from Honda. I got 18K miles out of the original. When I replaced it with a non-OEM, I only got 6K and I had to adjust it about every week or two. In the long run it was cheaper to stay with OEM.

 

The chain I have now I've put almost 3k miles on it and have only had to adjust it once. I lube it about every 500 miles. I think it's a really good chain, but it is heftier than the stock chain, it's wider and thicker.

 

Oh well, went with this one"

Parts Unlimited 520 Standard Motorcycle Chain - BikeBandit.com

I'm well aware it will need to be replace in 3k miles, but since my sprockets are looking pretty damn pointy anyways, I thought it be foolish to throw an expensive chain just to wear it out. I'll do a full sprocket/chain swap later in the summer, but I'm leaving for a college program and just need something to tie me over for a month, maybe two. Thanks for all the input guys, I'll definitely get something more worthwhile when this one dies.

 

Ok I need to limp my bike to campus, so I went ahead and dremeled out two links, and went and bought a clip on master link to connect them. I am at the point where all I need to do is put the link together, but it seems to require a good deal of compression to put it together. Is this the point where I need that special chain tool? And how much do they usually cost? My buddy just said to use a vice grips, but I feel like that could put too much pressure on one point and cause damage.

 

If you can loosen the rear wheel and adjust it forward, it'll give you some much needed slack to work on the chain. I'm sure they make a tool to install the linking plate, but I just used some large channel-lock pliers to work it on from side to side. Not the best option, but it'll do in a pinch. You could also use a c-clamp with a small block of wood against the link, and press it on, then the wood would compress where the pins go through, and press the link plate home.

 

The master link is designed to be slid over the protruding ends of the pins/rivets.

 

I was under the impression that the whole assembly was considered the master link...

 

Misstatement on my part. Thanks for catching that. Should have written that the retaining clip slides on the rivets, not pressed down over them.

 

Thanks guys, I installed it today, there was a satisfying "pop" when I used the channel lock to pop the link on, and the retaining clip slid easily and snugly into the slots. As I said before, this chain only needs to tie me over until my new chain gets here, but it was a great 1st experience using this clip system.

 

need to make sure the clip is facing the chain rotation direction

 

Will a new Honda OEM chain come as a solid "loop" and require the swingarm to be unbolted, or does it too have a "master link"?

 

The stock replacement chain is a continuous loop and the swing arm will have to be removed to install it. You could break it and buy a master link if you wanted to.

 

Are you aware of any detrimental effects of using a master link? Sure seems like routine maintenance items like chain cleaning would be much easier if the chain could just be removed, cleaned, and re-installed (OK, I'm anal about routine maintenance,:lol2.

 

If you remove a master link you really "should" replace the clip each time. While I have reused the clip before I always have second thoughts about it and go back and put on a new one.

 

Mojo, streets are uneven... How do you know if your sprockets are worn, i know when tips are gone and such, but are there any signs to watch for?

 

Look here: worn sprocket pic - Google Search

 

Not to be a thread derailed, but I haven't dealt with chains in a LONG time since all my bikes have had belts for years.

Does anyone here have any experience with Regina chains? I replaced the chain and sprockets on my wife's rebel with a 520ZRT/108 Regina chain and sprocket set hoping it would be a decent chain with a long life.

It is supposed to have a 9200+ tensile strength rating... But I have no idea what a Z-ring chain is compared to an o-ring chain...

 

On this page, you can see some Z-rings. They are just modified O-rings. Should be fine if the tensile strength is an honest rating. http://www.motorhelmets.com/htm-acc...accessories/renthal/2010-03/renthal-accessories-atv-chain-r4-atv-z-ring-520.htm