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FAQ: Valve Adjustment

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141K views 237 replies 72 participants last post by  SoakedKarma  
Ok I've done about a zillion valve adjustments on over a hundred different bikes (not al of them mine), screw and locknut, shim over bucket, shim under bucket, even Ducati. The Rebel has the easiest type, screw and locknut. and it only has 4 valves total.

You dont need to line up any marks on the flywheel, to me that just causes confusion. All you have to do is make sure the valve you are adjusting is closed. With the cover off, turn the engine over with a socket, and you can watch the rocker arms go up and down. When they are up, on the screw and locknut end, the valve is closed. It will remain closed for several degrees of crankshaft revolution, then start to open again. Remember, check and adjust while it is closed. You should be able to feel a slight looseness in the rocker arm.

Do not try to get the valves as tight as possible, adjust them to the loose end of spec. And make sure you recheck the clearance after tightening the locknut. Sometimes it will change just a little. Jerry.
 
IMO, the guy in the video is doing it wrong. He is using a socket to tighten the locknuts. This will not work well, as is obvious from the video. You need to use a box end wrench on the locknuts, and another, very small wrench on the square head of the adjuster itself. That's why the head is square. You can buy wrenches that are designed to fit these, you can make one, or you can use a really small crescent wrench ( I have one about 3" long). That way, you can hold the adjuster in place while you tighten the locknut, drastically reducing the chance the adjustment will change when you tighten it. I have never used a torque wrench on valves. Just snug them up. They break easy, so don't overtighten them. Once you get a feel for tightening the locknuts, just like for the proper drag on a feeler gauge, you will not need a torque wrench. Jerry.