[B40dash8]

Thank you very much for the advice. I definitely will. I bought as many seals as I could A new clutch nut and gaskets. I didn’t get the head gasket yet. Still have to find one and verify if the cb450s head gasket would fit. Just to have other options incase I can’t find the rebel 450 head gasket. I try to not buy from other countries because I don’t know how long shipping would take. I’ll see if Partzilla has that seal. Thanks again!

 

[flitecontrol]

With the seal's dimensions, any store that carries O-rings should be able to tell you if they have it in stock.

 

[redeemer1972]

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www.cmsnl.com

Thank you very much for the advice. I definitely will. I bought as many seals as I could A new clutch nut and gaskets. I didn’t get the head gasket yet. Still have to find one and verify if the cb450s head gasket would fit. Just to have other options incase I can’t find the rebel 450 head gasket. I try to not buy from other countries because I don’t know how long shipping would take. I’ll see if Partzilla has that seal. Thanks again!

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www.cmsnl.com

You'll find all types which carry the same head gasket.

 

[B40dash8]

I picked it up off eBay. I just put the part number in. Hopefully it’s right

 

[B40dash8]

Thank you. I was trying to stick to parts in the US for shipping reasons but I just bought piston rings and the head gasket from cmsnl.
I hope they are the correct parts! It said they didn’t have the rings but then when I googled the piston rings Honda part number they came up and said they had them. I hope they are the correct rings. According to Partzilla they are the correct rings for the bike. But we all know how that goes.

 

[Kreuzi]

CB's are far from simular.

Are they that different?
Both got the Engine labeled as PC17
Of course some Parts have to be obviously different like the Cylinderhead for example.
But I thought that they are "basically" the same, therefore should share typical Problems, have comparable wear and tear etc.?

 

[B40dash8]

I’m looking into clutch disks now. Might as well I’m pretty much replacing what I can while it’s apart. I see the EBC ck clutch disks and the ebc redline kit. Not sure which one to get. Anyone have some light to shed on what kit to get?

 

[B40dash8]

Jeez after a parts spree of buying I didn’t realize how much this engine is to restore while it’s apart. I spent $518 bucks in parts not even including any crank bearings, chains, or carb parts. Just ware out items. This is a expensive engine to restore!

 

[Emil]

One thing that I learned after redoing an engine on my MR2 awhile back. Take it easy on it. I got on mine hard too early, just once. Once is all it took to spin the crank bearings. I didn't want to rebuild it again.
Follow the break in instructions as though it was a brand new engine. You'll be glad that you did!

 

[B40dash8]

I will definitely take it easy if the thing even starts after all this. I’m alittle worried about making sure everything lines up as far as timing. I don’t have anyone looking over my shoulder telling me if I screwed up or not which is the tough part. Those mr2’s were nice! I’ve raced one before in my neon lol. I actually won the dude missed a gear or something. Anyway yes I will definitely take it easy on it

Next thing I’m researching is honing the piston bores. I bought new piston rings that are the stock size so I guess I just have to deglaze them. I don’t want to take to much material off the bores. Not sure if I should use the 3 arm hone or the ball hone. I’m not even sure what grit to use. I saw a 3 arm hone with medium stones in autozone but not sure if thats the one to use. I went on amazon and saw the ball hone but they also come in different grits. Update. The machinist I work with Said he will hone it for me. He said the ball hone and 3 arm hone are no good

 

[B40dash8]

Update: Still waiting on parts mostly from Partzilla and other various parts. My friend at work is taking the cylinder to be honed at his machine shop. I’ve installed the gear shifter seal and starter idle shaft gear so far. Just been cleaning the gasket surfaces lately and whatever else needs polishing / cleaning. As a fyi I’m in Newyork in the US, I ordered parts from cmsnl and they were the first ones to deliver parts basically took two days to get here while I’m sitting here waiting for most of the other parts to come from the US. I would of ordered Mostly all the parts from them if I new they would get here so fast.

 

[flitecontrol]

For your future reference, the parts diagram usually gives the sizes of standard O-rings. With those dimensions, an auto parts or specialty store will usually have them in stock, and they will be much cheaper there than getting them through Honda. 1986 HONDA CMX450C A - REBEL Parts | OEM MOTORCYCLE Parts | Partzilla.com

 

[B40dash8]

Thank you. But all I have is autozone, advanced auto, and a couple of mom and pop hardware stores. They usually just have kids who barely know how to tie their shoes working there. I wouldn’t trust them. Harbor freight has a seal kit with various different sizes but I don’t think I would trust their brand either for holding up.

 

[flitecontrol]

Fastenal, Grainger and hydraulic shops also carry O-rings.

 

[B40dash8]

none of those are around me.

 

[B40dash8]

So I’ve been reading ahead in the book to see how the balancer countershafts, and crank have to be aligned when putting it back together. The book says to reference the index mark on the crankshaft. Is this index mark the same as having it at top dead center? My crankshaft does not have any index line on it. I looked at a crank on eBay and it does have a index line. Mine does not.

I see the TC and TH lines on the counterbalances have to be matched horizontal/even to the case edge but no index line on the crank. Just making sure it’s the same as having the crank at tdc with the T mark on the flywheel to the index/arrow on the case by the flywheel. Has anyone come across a lack of index line on their crank? Also do they lines have to be absolutely critically straight to the edge or can be just a hair off?

** If you’re reading this and are going to split your cases make sure after you touch anything after you split your cases that you record and take pictures of how the TH/index line on the rear counter balancer and the TC/index line on the front counter balancer are aligned to the crank when the crank is at TDC. Referring to the TC and TH lines being flus with the outside case edge. Well Atleast that’s what I get out it from the books are saying.

 

[SoakedKarma]

No idea if this excerpt from Honda oem service manual will help or not

 

[B40dash8]

Thank you. That’s what I have been going by. I did not remove the balancer shafts of either balancer so I’m going by how it was already installed. I’m hoping I can get everything lined up without removing them. I’m able to move the front balancer gear around the chain so it’s just will take time to get everything aligned. I do not want to take out the balancer shafts.

 

[B40dash8]

Currently what I’m up to with the bottom end: check out the YouTube video…

 

[Emil]

Looks like it's coming along very well. I'd suspect that the PO was the one that messed up the threads there.
My dad bought a boat years ago that was obviously sabotaged. Things were taken apart, damaged, then carefully put back together to look like everything was fine. (Float in carb, as well as the distributor rotor, had been hit with a hammer, are just 2 examples).
Your situation seems more like it's from a lack of understanding or much care about what they were doing.
Be as meticulous as you have been & you'll have a "New" engine that'll last many miles. 👍 😁