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Engine knocking :(

3424 Views 132 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  B40dash8
Hello all, My bike has developed a knocking. I have adjusted the valves. All the valves open and close and the clearances were checked. I also don’t have any vacuum leaks in the carb boots. I was told it could be from non balanced carbs and I plan to sync them soon. I doubt that is the problem though. It’s really hard to judge where the knocking is coming from. It seems to be coming from lower case and transferring up to the valve cover. I really can’t figure out if it’s at the valve cover or the lower end. Does anyone have an idea on what could be causing this? I’ll post a YouTube video below. Thank you!

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While the valve cover is off. Rock the crank back and forth. Watch the cam. See how much you can rock it back and forth before the cam moves. That will give you an idea on timing chain stretch.
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timing chain has spring loaded mechanical tensioner that sticks up under rocker cover.. tap down on it to assure wedges are loose enough to self adjust..
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That large wedge is supposed to spring down? The larger one doesn’t budge but the smaller one springs down. I noticed that when I was trying to remove the cover
yes both wedges should move.. raising wedge A loosens pressure on tensioner
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had my cam chain adjuster jam one time.. had to tap Tab A downward until it broke loose
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Okay….So let’s just say I have the cover off and I go to push down on wedge A and it doesn’t move at all but wedge B springs down. Is that a problem. Or does the cam have to be in a certain position and or have to have the cylinder head off ?
Okay….So let’s just say I have the cover off and I go to push down on wedge A and it doesn’t move at all but wedge B springs down. Is that a problem. Or does the cam have to be in a certain position and or have to have the cylinder head off ?
I’m wondering if mine is jammed also. Hmm
Tab should move down.. whack down on it with screwdriver handle
I used a small ball peen hammer
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Tab should move down.. whack down on it with screwdriver handle
I used a small ball peen hammer
I will try that if I can get the cover off. That larger wedge doesn’t move so I can’t spring it down to get the cover off or on. Have no clue how it came off the first time but it took me damn near 3 hours to get it back on. I had to lower the engine. It kept getting stuck on that wedge that doesn’t spring down while trying not to destroy the gasket that no one can get anymore
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I was just reading the manual and
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it says knocking could be caused by excessive carbon build up. When I rejetteed the carbs for the exhaust I went for a ride and came home, took the plugs out and they were black and sooty. Then the knocking started right after that ride. Is there a way to remove the possible carbon with a oil additive? Seafoam / marvel mystery oil? A fuel additive? It’s a shot in the dark but I have no idea anymore. Lol. Ever since it knocked I returned everything back to stock
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BYT (Before YouTube) Old school decarbonization was to trickle water into intake while at higher rpm..
guess some still use it..
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Thanks. I tried spraying sea foam top end cleaner onto the valves and into the spark plug holes. And ran the engine alittle but it didn’t do anything. I also found this video I made when I was trying to get the valve cover back on. It shows what cam adjuster moved and what one didn’t spring down. Just a piece of video that shows it. I was having a lot of trouble getting the cover back on.

To get the valvecover off and on, it´s nessesary to remove the ignitioncoil/CDI.unit and cableconnectors. To do that it´s okay to remove the bracket wich holds the whole shebang. Hold it up with a rubberband or the likes.
Behind the valvecover is an bracket which holds the cylinderhead. Only the right triangle part can be removed (do that !)
All this, just gives enough space to maneuvre the Valvecover on and off. Still be careful in handling the cover and gasket..

To check and adjust camchain tension, loosen th two M6 Bolts (just loosen them don´t screw them out !) behind the cylinder-head and cylinder. Than turn the crankshaft counterclockwise. Holding the crankshaft under light tension, the M6 Bolts can be tightened again The hexbolts are M10 for the spanner-width.
Camchain-tension should be correct know and further manual tensioning isn´t nessesary.

good luck !
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I adjusted the balancer chain and the self adjuster adjusted itself. It moved up alittle. It was at the bottom. But knock is still there. I was Just wondering if it’s normal to see the exhaust valve when it’s opened through the spark plug hole?
So I bought a mechanic’s stethoscope and the noise seems to be coming from either the bottom end or the valve cover. Not sure if the noise is just traveling or what. But still hard to pin point where it’s coming from. I did notice when I attached the shifter back on the bike without the cover that the shift rod that goes into the trans has play in it. Please See video below. I’m not sure if that’s normal or not or if it’s just because the cover isn’t on Because the bike did fall into the dirt and then the knocking appeared. So I was checking the bottom end and what could maybe cause the knock. Just not sure if that rod flexing is normal or not.

oops, forgot you have a 450
looks like the bore through side cover provides support needed
The 250 Rebel has an inset roller bearing where the shaft passes through left side cover..
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Thanks for the response. Man I thought I was on to something here with the noise. This is one crazy hamster wheel that’s driving me insane!
Pete has good idea loosening assembly and rotating counter clockwise
is wedge doesn't retract tap it.
Wedge you couldn't move fully retracted along with housing it's attached to in this image..
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oh okay. Thanks. I didn’t want to battle with the valve cover today. I will try and get it done Tommorow and hit it with the small hammer. If not I’ll try and see what Pete is talking about while looking at it. That bigger wedge is stuck up. I’ll put some wd40 on it and hit it with the hammer Thanks for the picture!
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That´s a No Go ! Don´t use any Force like a Hammer on the camchain-tensioner !
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ah okay Pete. I was going to try karmas technique with a small watch hammer. I will try and do your adjustment with the bolts behind the cylinder today.
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