crappy plastic choke nut

The "choke" is actually just a fuel enricher. So is the bike now getting too much fuel?

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IM new to hondas but not to bikes so when the threads stripped I figured I could just plug the hole with my finger to create an air tight seal and see if it ran. I got it started but still ran like it was getting too much gas in the carb. Im not sure about these keihin carbs but on my amal carbs I just had to seal the choke ports to eliminate the choke cable. Maybe not the case with these japanese carbs?

Send me a private message if you need a replacement choke nut.

Yes, the bike is now getting to much fuel. In fact I'm surprised it will run at all when warm. It's not a nut, it is a threaded fitting. My Yamaha XT225 had the same setup, and it broke 100 miles from home. It got a ride back home in a truck. Enricheners work exactly opposite to a choke. They make the a/f mixture richer when open instead of closed. That fitting is part of the "choke" cable, you have to buy a whole new cable to get one. And the stress of the cable on the cheap plastic is usually what causes them to break. If you don't need the "choke" very often, there is a better way. You can get a plunger that screws directly into the carb, with no cable. It means having to reach under the tank to use the choke, but it is far less likely to break, and is a lot cheaper. That's the way I went with my Yamaha, and I carry a spare just in case. It looks like this

1999 Honda CMX250C A CARBURETOR | Babbitts Online


parts #21 and #12 are the choke/enricher (listed as start valve), give them a call to clarify what you need before ordering.


yes the nut is fragile plastic, but it snapping is often caused by a PO cranking it too tight causing stress fractures in the plastic.
The enricher valve is just a plug that when pulled back opens an additional fuel passage, and when released closes it back up. It's a gate-type valve design and needs little force to do its job to plug the passage. the retaing cap-nut should be only just past finger-tight, seated just firmly enough to not back out from motor vibrations.

kryton said:

1999 Honda CMX250C A CARBURETOR | Babbitts Online


parts #21 and #12 are the choke/enricher (listed as start valve), give them a call to clarify what you need before ordering.


yes the nut is fragile plastic, but it snapping is often caused by a PO cranking it too tight causing stress fractures in the plastic.
The enricher valve is just a plug that when pulled back opens an additional fuel passage, and when released closes it back up. It's a gate-type valve design and needs little force to do its job to plug the passage. the retaing cap-nut should be only just past finger-tight, seated just firmly enough to not back out from motor vibrations.

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#21 is the rubber cable seal

#12 is the nut, spring, and plunger - you can't get them separately from the dealer

right on JerryH. Thats what I needed. I actually bought a part that was my best guess as a fix and its the same part as the one pictured in your post, almost. The threaded fitting is metal however, and unfortunately too small. Can you send a link to the part you use? And its for the keihin carb? Ive spent so much time searching I really appreciate your help.
Chris

desert rat said:

right on JerryH. Thats what I needed. I actually bought a part that was my best guess as a fix and its the same part as the one pictured in your post, almost. The threaded fitting is metal however, and unfortunately too small. Can you send a link to the part you use? And its for the keihin carb? Ive spent so much time searching I really appreciate your help.
Chris

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The part JerryH posted will only allow choke position full on or full off, there is no feathering ability when you use this type of choke plunger.

Thank you all! Found the piece (Moderator-- that was it) and it's on it's way. Really appreciate all of the help and links.

Welcome to the forum Chris. Glad you found it. Thanks to everyone for providing good info and help resolving the issue, and especially to Keith for finding the exact part. Now I hope you and the missus can enjoy the ride.

01-7700 said:

Check out this part if you want to replace the nut only.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Rebel...art-Nut-/142314250635?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

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Hi -- this thread is a couple years old, so the ebay link is dead. I need a choke nut too. Does anybody know what that link was to, or what to call/search for to find that replacement choke nut? Thanks!!!

I think member 01-7700 sells those. Send him a PM to see if he still has them.

Try this link..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133031377855

alma said:

Hi -- this thread is a couple years old, so the ebay link is dead. I need a choke nut too. Does anybody know what that link was to, or what to call/search for to find that replacement choke nut? Thanks!!!

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Hi - I'm the one with the nuts

send me a PM - I have a few to sell -

Awesome. This forum is magic!

So, I'm a dummy and I over tightened that crappy plastic nut and sheared it off halfway down the threads. Do you guys have any recommendations for getting the threaded bit out?

Yeah, yeah, I know... resurrecting a dead thread. But this is my wife's bike and I was "helping" when I broke it, so this is high priority for me.

I would try a perfectly sized flat screwdriver - wide enough to just fit inside what's left of the nut. You could also try using an easy out or a phillips screw driver. It should come out easy.

The issue with both of those is that the choke cable and little metal cylinder are in the way with both of those. A screwdriver might do it though... I'll give it a shot! Thanks!

if you undo the connection of the cable at the handlebar end it would give you more room to work