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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
i often see people asking about inexpensive ways to jack up their bikes to work on them. i use an idea i read about on line with a few minor adjustments.

i started with this which is made out of a ten foot 2x10 cut in half and wood screwed together. cut some notches to give clearance for the exhaust pipes.

$20 Bike Lift

that didn't have enough height to catch the cross bar under the bike, (not the exhaust pipe but the frame.) so i added a piece of 2x4 with a bit of galvanized metal strapping that was laying around the garage and long wood screws.

i then added a two eye hooks and got a cheap adjustable nylon strap out of the dollar bin at sears with hooks on the ends and an a ratcheting buckle. i think it may have cost less then $5 but not sure. to stabilize the bike from side to side movement.

now the cross bar underneath is a bit forward and the bike sits on it with the front wheel in the air. to get the back wheel up i use a car jack i got out of a junk yard that i think i paid about $4-5 for. to use the jack just brace it under the swing arm and jack it up like normal.





with the back wheel off and the bike as steady as a rock



not pretty but cheap and extremely steady. the whole thing cost me about $30.
 

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Great idea! I got a few questions/observations...

Did you find that the 5 feet was too long? Too short or just right? Looks like the 2x4 is lying flat, is it spanning the 2 2x10s? The pole would appear to be the leverage point. How is it attached and how long is it? And do you have some measurements on the cutouts for the exhaust? Did you try using that on the swing-arm where you have the car jack, and what happened if you did?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Great idea! I got a few questions/observations...

Did you find that the 5 feet was too long? Too short or just right? Looks like the 2x4 is lying flat, is it spanning the 2 2x10s? The pole would appear to be the leverage point. How is it attached and how long is it? And do you have some measurements on the cutouts for the exhaust? Did you try using that on the swing-arm where you have the car jack, and what happened if you did?

Thanks!

yea, the 2x4 is spanning the two 2x10s, 5 feet is the only size i have tried but i like it. it is wide enough to make for a stable platform. kind of like a cross on the floor.

i attached the pole with a flange from home depoe, from underneath. i didn't bather counter sinking it. not sure exactly how long the pipe is, it is a stock size from home depoe, probably 36". for the pipe i picked out a beefy black pipe at the big box store. if i remeber i used the one thickest one that fit the biggest flange available.

got the idea from this web site. http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/bikelift.htm



it is far to short to be useful under the swing arm.

to make the cut outs i just used a hand saw to cut out four groves and a hammer to knock out the middle parts. i eyeballed them with out measurements.
 

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I got all sorts of lumber lying around here.. thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
the first couple of times you use it, it will feel awkward wile holding the bike and flipping the (i don't know what to call it) thing over. just pay attention to make sure that is is on the frame cross bar and not the exhaust, they are close to each other.

once you get used to it, it is easy and stable.

sunday i'll post a better picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
as promised closer pictures

the bottom



top view


close up of the notches



with out the stabilizing strap, with the front wheel off the ground. it is hard to see but you get about 2 inches of clearance





a close up of the bar that you brace it on and the notches clearing the tail pipes, i forget the measurements, as you can see i tried to make it wide enough to get most of the frame and miss the pipes.



these are of the stabilizing the strap, which are attached to the eye hooks.






 

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Really nice job!
 

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i like your idea simple & sturdy n easy to make :thumb:
 

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Thanks for the pictures and explanations. It really brings into focus how well it works and how to use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
i wish it was my idea, and would love to take credit for this, but i cobbled together ideas from other sources. i linked the web site where i took the idea for the wooden thing.

it went through stages. i made to the specs on the web site but that was too short to pick up the bike. so i added the piece of 2x4. now it was high enough but it was to unstable for my tastes.

one day wile in sears looking at tools. (they where in the process of chasing me out, cause i was drooling on tools and rusting them.) on the way out by chance i looked in their equivalent of a dollar bin and saw the ratcheting strap.

at first i was using a wooden block to brace up the rear wheel. but that was a pain in the but. i needed some one to put it in place wile i lifted the back of the bike by hand. remember lift with your legs not your back. this was no long term solution. you can't always count on some one being around to help out.

i had read about the the jack on a different forum. an easy find in almost any auto junk yard. a few people said they carry them in saddle bags to fix flats on the road.

i can't see using the jack that way. unless there is some thing i'm missing. it seems far to unstable for my tastes by it self. then again it may be fine and i am just paranoid.
 

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When you gentlemen are talking about jacking up the rear swingarm, are you refering to the the big 3" by 5" area of the swingarm that has the raised "X" stamped into it? :confused:
 

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That is where I put the floor jack to lift the rear on mine. I also use tie down straps on the upper shock mounts up to eye bolts in the garage rafters. Kind of cheesy but it works.
 

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I am an amateur woodworker, so this was an easy weekend project. I built one out of two pieces of laminated 8/4 maple (1.75 in. thick each.) I used it for the 1st time today to remove my front wheel ( I am having a new Kenda K671 tire put on tomorrow.) I am getting about 3-4 in. of lift in the front. The jack is easy to operate with a 4 ft. iron pipe. The bike is quite stable on the lift with the nylon ratcheting strap across the frame (eye bolt lag screw on each end of the jack for the strap hooks.) This is indeed a cheap yet effective lift :thumb:.

Anybody interested in making one, here are some dimensions:

Mine is 35 in. wide, 3.5 in. thick, 6 in. tall (in the jacked position.) The center protrusion under the frame is 7 in. wide by 10 in. tall (i.e. it protrudes 4 " above the main board.) The 7 in. dimension is just right. It supports the frame yet fits between the exhaust pipes.

You may notice two ears on each end. That is because one board is 6 in. tall with cutouts for the pipes, while the other is 5 in. tall.

I am using a scissors truck jack to stabilize the back and also to lift the back wheel off the ground if I want to. Without it, the back wheel naturally rests on the ground.

I chalked the back wheel to keep the bike from rolling backwards. It will only do so if you push on the front pretty hard.
 

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:Thanx:

I have a full assortment of woodworking machines in my garage, so that made the job easier.

I assembled all wood pieces with only wood glue, no metal straps. That made it look a little bit cleaner.

Cheap yet effective, just like my Rebel :).
 
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