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Carburetor disassembly & reassembly

214K views 256 replies 76 participants last post by  flitecontrol 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This post will show you how to disassemble and reassemble the carb on the rebel. Please note that this does not cover complete disassembly for cleaning a carb. This is covered in the numerous posts which follow. The carb shown is a '96 & up rebel carb.

Lets start with a complete carb as see in the attachments.
 

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#2 ·
Disassembly Instructions

To begin the disassembly.

Remove the 4 screws on top.






Remove the spring from the diaphram assembly






Remove the carb needle stay, then remove the diaphram assembly.












If you are going to shim the needle you will need a wash that will fit into the recess on the bottom of the diaphram


 
#3 ·
Remove the large phillips screw from the throttle body side






Remove the 4 screws holing the float bowl.








Remove the float assembly, slide the pin out one side and remove, remove the float needle also, being careful not to damage the point.






Remove the slow jet








 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Remove the main jet assembly








Inspect the float bowl




Remove the 3 screws from the bottom & remove the assembly.









To reassembly..... reverse the steps.


When installing the diaphragm, make sure it is seated in the groove before putting the metal cover on top. If needed, put a little Vaseline in the groove to help keep the diaphragm in place while installing the cover.
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
Carb Problem

Thorough cleaning of the carb is best done by soaking only the metal parts in Berrymans Chem Dip for 24 hours or longer. In addition to the carb rubber gaskets, the carb drain and air/fuel (pilot) screw have O-rings on them. The float valve has a rubber tip and the float is plastic. None of these items go in the Chem Dip; it will ruin them.

After soaking, the parts should be removed from the Chem Dip, rinsed thoroughly with water and all the openings (jets and passageways) in the carb blown out with compressed air. Skipping any of these steps may result in a carb that isn't clean.
 
#220 ·
How did you remove the carb from the bike?



Hi Joe,
I was browsing through this old thread to get info on cleaning the carb when I saw in your comment that you and I have the same bike.
I am in desperate need of cleaning my carb and so far all the info that I have got regarding removing the carb from the bike is for older models. In older models you could shimmy the carb out by loosening the phillips screw on hose clamps on the front and rear of the carb. But there is more to it for our model, isn't?
You have to remove that black rubber duct from the airbox, isn't?

Any pointers on how to do so?

Thanks,
Kevin
Rocklin, CA
 
#12 ·
On the second generation bikes, it goes through a plastic coupler with a hex head that threads into the carb. Not sure of first generation bikes. Follow the cable to the carb; should be fairly self evident. Be careful when reinstalling so as not to cross thread the plastic (if that's what your bike has).
 
#17 · (Edited)
Yes. Try penetrating fluid for 24 hours then a manual impact driver. Has worked for me every time. Then consider replacing them with stainless steel Allen head fasteners. Will make any subsequent removal pretty easy.
 
#18 ·
A high quality screwdriver the right size works good if you can maintain good downward force while you try to loosen. If the screw is starting to strip out the head, some small vice grips may work.
 
#21 ·
It has to do with the way a CV carb works. The needle is tapered and slides out of the jet increasing the fuel mixture as it rises.
Shimming the needle pulls the needle out a little bit, enriching the mixture slightly throughout the upper rev range.
You would want to do that if you have changed the way the egine breathes, i.e. changed the air filter from the stock box to a pod or similar or changes to a slightly less restrictive exhaust.

Sometimes needle shimming is done in concert with changing the main and idle jets.
 
#23 ·
I'm trying to rebuild the carb on the 06 rebel 250 I just picked up, but i can't seem to get the float loose. The pin comes out easily, but then the float needle (and as such, the float itself) seems to be stuck, likely due to all the varnish from old gas in here. Any tips on how to get it loose without damaging anything? I'm concerned i'll end up breaking the little tabs on the float itself.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Never saw one that gummed up! With the pin pulled, you should be able to wiggle things loose. If that doesn't work, soak things in some Sea Foam. Sea Foam won't hurt the plastic float or rubber tipped valve, and will dissolve the varnish.
 
#26 ·
Depending on how bad it is, and it sounds bad, it may take a day or two to break loose. Try wiggling it every now and then untill it breaks free. When you disassemble the carb, either have it cleaned ultrasonicly or let it soak for at least 24 hours in carb cleaning solution. Longer may be better. Be sure to blow out the jets and orifices in the carb body with compressed air after soaking and rinsing.
 
#28 ·
Or put the pin back in and hit it thru the fill tube with some carb cleaner followed by friendly air pressure
 
#29 ·
2000 rebel 250 wont run with choke on

got a 2000 honda rebel. jus rebuilt carb. the bike starts up perfect and then immediately dies. when i try to use the choke, it just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. i can get it started and keep it running under wide open throttle, but when i back off the throttle and try to choke it, she just dies. i know my rebel needs to be choked for a least a min or two before she'll idle properly. any suggestions?
 
#30 ·
got a 2000 honda rebel. jus rebuilt carb. the bike starts up perfect and then immediately dies. when i try to use the choke, it just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. i can get it started and keep it running under wide open throttle, but when i back off the throttle and try to choke it, she just dies. i know my rebel needs to be choked for a least a min or two before she'll idle properly. any suggestions?
Re-clean the carb.
And to sure to use compress air.
I needed to clean my twice, before it was "clean"
 
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