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Why would someone do this?

"If you are going to shim the needle you will need a washer that will fit into the recess on the bottom of the diaphram"
It has to do with the way a CV carb works. The needle is tapered and slides out of the jet increasing the fuel mixture as it rises.
Shimming the needle pulls the needle out a little bit, enriching the mixture slightly throughout the upper rev range.
You would want to do that if you have changed the way the egine breathes, i.e. changed the air filter from the stock box to a pod or similar or changes to a slightly less restrictive exhaust.

Sometimes needle shimming is done in concert with changing the main and idle jets.
 

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I have some complete and partial stainless allen head screw sets left. You can see the pics in the classifieds. Or if you want the info on sizes PM me and I'll give you the size for your model Rebel. Regards, Chef
 

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I'm trying to rebuild the carb on the 06 rebel 250 I just picked up, but i can't seem to get the float loose. The pin comes out easily, but then the float needle (and as such, the float itself) seems to be stuck, likely due to all the varnish from old gas in here. Any tips on how to get it loose without damaging anything? I'm concerned i'll end up breaking the little tabs on the float itself.
 

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Never saw one that gummed up! With the pin pulled, you should be able to wiggle things loose. If that doesn't work, soak things in some Sea Foam. Sea Foam won't hurt the plastic float or rubber tipped valve, and will dissolve the varnish.
 

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Depending on how bad it is, and it sounds bad, it may take a day or two to break loose. Try wiggling it every now and then untill it breaks free. When you disassemble the carb, either have it cleaned ultrasonicly or let it soak for at least 24 hours in carb cleaning solution. Longer may be better. Be sure to blow out the jets and orifices in the carb body with compressed air after soaking and rinsing.
 

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Or put the pin back in and hit it thru the fill tube with some carb cleaner followed by friendly air pressure
 

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2000 rebel 250 wont run with choke on

got a 2000 honda rebel. jus rebuilt carb. the bike starts up perfect and then immediately dies. when i try to use the choke, it just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. i can get it started and keep it running under wide open throttle, but when i back off the throttle and try to choke it, she just dies. i know my rebel needs to be choked for a least a min or two before she'll idle properly. any suggestions?
 

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got a 2000 honda rebel. jus rebuilt carb. the bike starts up perfect and then immediately dies. when i try to use the choke, it just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. i can get it started and keep it running under wide open throttle, but when i back off the throttle and try to choke it, she just dies. i know my rebel needs to be choked for a least a min or two before she'll idle properly. any suggestions?
Re-clean the carb.
And to sure to use compress air.
I needed to clean my twice, before it was "clean"
 

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Jack's Rebel Warehouse charges something like $45, if memory serves.
 

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I took apart my carb last summer and soaked it in mineral spirits for 24 hours. Ever since then fuel doesn't gravity feed as well to the carb anymore, it just slowly trickles (bike came with a transparent fuel line).

If you pull out the fuel line to the carb gas just flows out so I know I don't have a clogged petcock. Any ideas? Did I over tighten something?
 
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