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stray line #30

http://cdn1.bikebandit-images.com/schematics/schematics/honda/hon012/hj1004070018.gif

I was having problems with my 2001 Rebel CMX250C. In order to run, the choke had to be almost completely open. When riding it would also stall. After reading through a lot of forums, decided to clean the carb. During removal of the carb I was having some difficulties and the line labeled #20 in the above diagram popped off of...wherever it came from.

Does anybody know where line #20 is supposed to connect to besides the carburetor?

I can't find any diagrams that show this. Thanks in advance!
In the same diagram, can anyone tell me where hose #30 goes to. at its lower end it joins to the carburetor bowl drain line and the carburetor vent line, its upper end has just fallen out of being tucked somewhere???
 

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some gas tanks have a vent pipe up inside the tunnel - if the tank has been replaced it may not have one - will need to remove the tank to find out and reattach the vent hose if there is an attachment pipe
 

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its not the tank breather, I found the tank breather line and it is still attached and runs down & out the bottom by itself, not joining to any others...
 

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progress

making headway, here it is all apart, look at how dirty that bowl is
 

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Hose #30 is the carb vent hose. It just loops up over the top of the carb, through an eyelet on top of the carb, and back down the side of the carb. It normally has a slash cut end, and does not connect to anything on that end.

The parts look like a bike that sat too long with old gas in it. Varnish and goo clogging up everything. I recommend ultrasonically cleaning. You can use just dish soap and water, and put all parts in it including rubber and plastic. Use a soft parts cleaning brush for anything that seems stuck on after the first cleaning, then do it again. I usually let it go for an hour, brush, rinse, replace soapy water with clean, and let it go another hour. Repeat until the carb and cleaning solution are both clean after an hour. It usually only takes 2-3 cycles, but YMMV. Then rinse with clear water and blow out all passages with compressed air.

Don't tell my wife, but she got a really nice, extra large, jewelry cleaner for Christmas that doubles as my parts cleaner when she is not looking.

If you use a chem dip be sure not to put any rubber or plastic in it. Soak for 24-48 hours, brush, repeat. Then rinse with clear water and blow out all passages with compressed air.

Be sure when you put it back together that you install the needle jet correctly. It is directional. One end fits the shape of the needle jet holder, and the other fits the shape of the bottom of the carb port. The carb will not work correctly with it installed backwards.

Good luck, and be sure to get it clean the first time. Attention to detail is important because you really don't want to have to take it back off to do it twice.
 

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Thank You again 76Paw.
So that's what that empty loop on the top of the carb is for, LOL!
It may be a "too late" moment, I used "Power Foam" recommended by the parts shop (on the metal parts only, no rubber was harmed in this misguided adventure). I held each piece inside a Maxwell house plastic coffee tub and sprayed through everything I could, then dropped in to soak in the accumulated cleaner and put the lid on to soak for an hour. Repeated this several times, then rinsed each part with plain ordinary spray can carb cleaner, checked every port/passage/etc that I could to see cleaner spray out (side ports in the jets, accelerator pump nozzle, pilot port and such) and blew them out with compressed air. A nylon toothbrush was doing nothing for the crud where the bowl gasket used to be, I ended up using a brass brush which seemed to do good and left no scratches. Should I go back and do the soap & water as well? my gaskets are on order, I have 3-4 days of thumb-twiddling before I attempt reassembly.


related question: has anyone else used Power Foam?
 

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lessons learned #1

1) Be wary of the PO's 'friend' who did a carb job. Though it may be due to the bike being 7 years old, I suspect lack of care with carb cleaner may have been the culprit. The rubber rim/seat for the vacuum piston and the accelerator pump were rough, stiff, and had shrunk and won't sit/seat well, I shouldn't have to try to stretch the rim to the seat-groove, and now I'm spending $180 to replace them. I suspect the previous carb job - the slow jet had been backed out 2-1/2 turns, the pilot was only set at 1-1/4 and per the manual should have been closer to 2-1/4, and the short/med/long screws were mixed all over the place. but I could be wrong.


2) Carb screws are 3 different lengths, 4 short for the vacuum piston cover, 3 medium for the accelerator pump, 4 long for the bowl.


3) pilot screw cap removal. If you want to reset & retune the pilot from ground zero you have to remove the cap if your bowl has this silly ward sticking out the side of it. The manual says the cap is glued on with Loctite green. Well a pencil soldering iron is not hot enough to free it. I was successful with a little propane torch, almost too successful. I wrapped the screw in a wet paper towel and put it in an alligator clip of my electronics soldering station to easily torch the cap. It came off but some of the fine/sharp detail lines and such are gone. Apparently it's made of zinc which melts way too easily and I almost applied too much heat.
 

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In the future use the soldering iron tip to apply pressure. Once it heats up it will flick right off.
The slide assembly with new diaphragm (22 or 24mm) can probably be replaced with a chinese slide assembly for less than $10.
I think you just need to close one extra hole off which allows it to work in a 150cc.

I have some info here
http://www.hondarebelforum.com/f76/carburetor-rebuild-kits-79426.html
 

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In the future use the soldering iron tip to apply pressure. Once it heats up it will flick right off.

I guess I need a hotter soldering iron, 2 minutes of heating and use of pliers on the cap and nothing budged, or maybe a previous carb job used something else to glue it on?

The slide assembly with new diaphragm (22 or 24mm) can probably be replaced with a chinese slide assembly for less than $10.
I already bit the bullet for OEM parts when I read this, I'll keep this in mind for the future when I have more confidence and successful rebuilds under my belt, or have a project bike on the side.


P.S. it actually came to $164 from http://www.babbittsonline.com/ and promo code free150 gets free shipping with orders over $150.
 

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I had to also replace the vacuum cylinder, accelerator pump diaphragm, and the fuel tank screen. almost a full month of order parts, wait, install, order more, wait, install, etc.
Dialing in the pilot mix and the idle stop went easy with a digital tach, the only tricky bit is there isn't much room for a screwdriver to turn the pilot screw, I ended up using a small flat tip hex shank bit in a 6 point socket, which worked well.
She's running well now.
 

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short screwdriver

I didn't have a small blade flathead screwdriver that would fit between the carburetor and the transmission, so....
My "small space to adjust the pilot mix screw" screwdriver solution, a hex shank screwdriver bit taped into an appropriate size 6 point socket, worked very well.
 

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Awesome!! Thanks!!

Now the next problem:(

I just pulled my carb out of the cleaning dip and "again" tipped it upside down into a bucket. When I picked it up out of the buck these itty bitty washers fell out of somewhere...one is rubber and the other is metal. They look like they could go into "a" or "b" or both (see pictures).
 

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they came from C - Pilot Screw
and the rubber one should probably be replaced
 

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I had to also replace the vacuum cylinder, accelerator pump diaphragm, and the fuel tank screen. almost a full month of order parts, wait, install, order more, wait, install, etc.
If you don't mind, where did you source those parts from? I've been looking for the cylinder and diaphragm, but everywhere seems to not have it.
 

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