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On the second generation bikes, it goes through a plastic coupler with a hex head that threads into the carb. Not sure of first generation bikes. Follow the cable to the carb; should be fairly self evident. Be careful when reinstalling so as not to cross thread the plastic (if that's what your bike has).

 

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Yes. Try penetrating fluid for 24 hours then a manual impact driver. Has worked for me every time. Then consider replacing them with stainless steel Allen head fasteners. Will make any subsequent removal pretty easy.

 

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Never saw one that gummed up! With the pin pulled, you should be able to wiggle things loose. If that doesn't work, soak things in some Sea Foam. Sea Foam won't hurt the plastic float or rubber tipped valve, and will dissolve the varnish.

 

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Depending on how bad it is, and it sounds bad, it may take a day or two to break loose. Try wiggling it every now and then untill it breaks free. When you disassemble the carb, either have it cleaned ultrasonicly or let it soak for at least 24 hours in carb cleaning solution. Longer may be better. Be sure to blow out the jets and orifices in the carb body with compressed air after soaking and rinsing.

 

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Yup, don't want crud getting to a clean carb - frustrating!

 

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So does carbworx.com + shipping. Both will do an excellent job.

 

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Pull the air duct or (my preferred method) push it back into the airbox enough to allow carb removal. Lubricating things with WD-40 makes it easier to slide the boot.

 

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Blow everything out with compressed air when you're done. Inspect the jets to be sure they're spotless inside.

 

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Been a while since I installed mine, but 1/4" sounds right. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

 

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Think you may be talking about the idle adjustment (black knob) or the air/fuel mixture screw.

 

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It all depends on how gunky the carb is and how many times you want to clean it!

 

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Carb cleaning/soaking solution. Like bB2ner says, here it comes in a gallon can. Looks like a paint can.

 

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I will go look & ask at the local places.
Once you have the float & other bits & pieces out/off (as in the disassembly thread) then there's nothing else in the carb that will melt if I submerge it, is that correct?

There may be some O-rings or other non-metallic parts, but that's pretty much the way it was on mine. Just soak the metal stuff. Unscrew the jets so the solution can get to them and you can inspect them to be sure they are clean before re-installing.

 

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The ingredients in Sea Foam are light oil (like ATF), naptha (camping stove fuel/white gas) and isopropanol. From the Sea Foam MSDS.

 

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From here: Naphtha - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Naphtha ( /ˈnæfθə/ or /ˈnæpθə/) normally refers to a number of different flammable liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons, i.e., a component of natural gas condensate or a distillation product from petroleum, coal tar or peat boiling in a certain range and containing certain hydrocarbons. It is a broad term covering among the lightest and most volatile fractions of the liquid hydrocarbons in petroleum. Naphtha is a colorless to reddish-brown volatile aromatic liquid, very similar to gasoline.

In petroleum engineering, full range naphtha is defined as the fraction of hydrocarbons in petroleum boiling between 30 °C and 200 °C.[1] It consists of a complex mixture of hydrocarbon molecules generally having between 5 and 12 carbon atoms. It typically constitutes 15–30% of crude oil, by weight. Light naphtha is the fraction boiling between 30 °C and 90 °C and consists of molecules with 5–6 carbon atoms. Heavy naphtha boils between 90 °C and 200 °C and consists of molecules with 6–12 carbons.

Naphtha is used primarily as feedstock for producing high octane gasoline (via the catalytic reforming process). It is also used in the bitumen mining industry as a diluent, the petrochemical industry for producing olefins in steam crackers, and the chemical industry for solvent (cleaning) applications. Common products made with it include lighter fluid, fuel for camp stoves, and some cleaning solvents.

From here: Chemical formula of acetone

Acetone belongs to a group of organic molecules called ketones or alkanones. The proper name acetone is propanone. It is also sometimes called 2-propanone.

Acetone is an organic liquid that is colorless, flammable and is often used as a solvent as it is completely miscible with water and nearly all other organic liquids. Acetone has a low boiling point 56.5 °C or 134 °F and readily vaporizes and has a distinctive odor.

The molecular formula for acetone is C3H6O. The condensed structural formula of acetone is OC(CH3)2

 

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Acetone is the primary ingredient in SeaFoam

No, it's not.

white gas/naptha ~ acetone

jet fuel/vegetable oil ~ diesel

:-/

Just trying to help.

Just trying to be accurate. While a diesel engine may run on peanut oil, diesel fuel, kerosene, a mixture of gasoline and motor oil, olive oil, etc., they are not the same.

The primary ingredient in most nail polish removers is acetone. So nail polish ~ acetone, correct? Does this mean you should use nail polish remover in your automotive system, even though there are other additives in nail polish? Not necessarily.

Good to learn that acetone is a good carb cleaner.

However, I would not run it in the fuel due to it's tendency to destroy rubber and plastic like the float needle tip and float.

 

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I believe it's a rubber O-ring, and should be reuseable. But it's been a while since I had mine off.

 

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If the plugs look good, I'd leave it as it was. If too rich, get rid of the washer/shim. Spark Plugs

 

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Your carbs may not be identical, but should be similar.