Carburetor disassembly & reassembly

206103 Views 256 Replies 76 Participants Last post by flitecontrol, 12 mo ago

BigJ

Discussion Starter · Feb 5, 2009 (Edited by Moderator)

4

This post will show you how to disassemble and reassemble the carb on the rebel. Please note that this does not cover complete disassembly for cleaning a carb. This is covered in the numerous posts which follow. The carb shown is a '96 & up rebel carb.

Lets start with a complete carb as see in the attachments.

See less See more

1 - 20 of 257 Posts

BigJ

Discussion Starter · #2 · Feb 5, 2009

10

Disassembly Instructions

To begin the disassembly.

Remove the 4 screws on top.

Remove the spring from the diaphram assembly

Remove the carb needle stay, then remove the diaphram assembly.

If you are going to shim the needle you will need a wash that will fit into the recess on the bottom of the diaphram

See less See more

BigJ

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 5, 2009

10

Remove the large phillips screw from the throttle body side

Remove the 4 screws holing the float bowl.

Remove the float assembly, slide the pin out one side and remove, remove the float needle also, being careful not to damage the point.

Remove the slow jet

See less See more

BigJ

Discussion Starter · #4 · Feb 5, 2009 (Edited by Moderator)

7

Remove the main jet assembly

Inspect the float bowl

Remove the 3 screws from the bottom & remove the assembly.

To reassembly..... reverse the steps.

When installing the diaphragm, make sure it is seated in the groove before putting the metal cover on top. If needed, put a little Vaseline in the groove to help keep the diaphragm in place while installing the cover.

See less See more

BerkelUSA

· #5 · Feb 16, 2009 (Edited by Moderator)

Carburetor Rebuild Video

All pictures no audio explaining and showing each part.. If you can clean it then the remainder is easy.. Just be ready to click PAUSE. The recommended method for cleaning a carb is soaking it in Berrymans Chem Dip for 24-48 hours. Cleaning the holes in a brass jet with a steel wire is not recommended. the best use of this video is to show most, but not all of the various carb parts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIa23_0Hn9I

Enjoy!

(where did I get the title "cool newbie")

See less See more

rockszone

· #6 · May 3, 2009 (Edited by Moderator)

Carb Problem

Thorough cleaning of the carb is best done by soaking only the metal parts in Berrymans Chem Dip for 24 hours or longer. In addition to the carb rubber gaskets, the carb drain and air/fuel (pilot) screw have O-rings on them. The float valve has a rubber tip and the float is plastic. None of these items go in the Chem Dip; it will ruin them.

After soaking, the parts should be removed from the Chem Dip, rinsed thoroughly with water and all the openings (jets and passageways) in the carb blown out with compressed air. Skipping any of these steps may result in a carb that isn't clean.

jomamma1

· #7 · Jun 6, 2010

Thanks Big_J. I used your pictures and info to remove and clean the carburetor on my 2004 250 Rebel. It was easier than I expected.

Joe in Modesto

kent1005

· #8 · Oct 12, 2010

Hi, Big_J! Thanks for the information. But I'd like to know how I should remove the carburetor from the bike first. I am a new rider and I've googled for how removing the carburetor from bike but failed to locate one. Do you have any advise? THX a lot!!

Buickguy

· #9 · Oct 12, 2010

85-87 carb removal.

See less See more

osteve

· #10 · Oct 12, 2010

After you remove the two nuts (that are holding the carb to the motor) then remove the two screws. The carb will come right out. That if you follow all the other directions

wernermeister

· #11 · Oct 23, 2010

Buickguy said:
85-87 carb removal.

Thanks for all this info.
My trouble/question is: How do you remove the "starter valve" (=enricher cable) from carb so I can completely remove it from bike?

Thanks!

flitecontrol

· #12 · Oct 23, 2010

On the second generation bikes, it goes through a plastic coupler with a hex head that threads into the carb. Not sure of first generation bikes. Follow the cable to the carb; should be fairly self evident. Be careful when reinstalling so as not to cross thread the plastic (if that's what your bike has).

Buickguy

· #13 · Oct 23, 2010

flitecontrol said:
On the second generation bikes, it goes through a plastic coupler with a hex head that threads into the carb. Not sure of first generation bikes. Follow the cable to the carb; should be fairly self evident. Be careful when reinstalling so as not to cross thread the plastic (if that's what your bike has).

Same thing on the first gen Reb.

wernermeister

· #14 · Oct 23, 2010

Buickguy said:
Same thing on the first gen Reb.

Thank you guys.
Will check this out tomorrow.

Happy riding.

Ferrarimx5

· #15 · Oct 24, 2010

..........

ejburroughs

· #16 · Jan 2, 2011

Anyone else have trouble getting the four screws off the top of the carb?

flitecontrol

· #17 · Jan 2, 2011 (Edited)

Yes. Try penetrating fluid for 24 hours then a manual impact driver. Has worked for me every time. Then consider replacing them with stainless steel Allen head fasteners. Will make any subsequent removal pretty easy.

bB2NER

· #18 · Jan 2, 2011

A high quality screwdriver the right size works good if you can maintain good downward force while you try to loosen. If the screw is starting to strip out the head, some small vice grips may work.

ejburroughs

· #19 · Jan 2, 2011

Thanks guys........

converted

· #20 · Jan 4, 2011

Why would someone do this?

"If you are going to shim the needle you will need a washer that will fit into the recess on the bottom of the diaphram"

1 - 20 of 257 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.