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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I’ve now taken my carb apart like 8 different times to try and figure out what little orifice or port I am missing when cleaning. I’ve sprayed carb cleaner and air through every hole I can see and they are all clear. I’ve bought a rebuild kit and swapped out the jets in case they were magically plugged somewhere I can’t see.

The bike will start up very easily and idle perfectly. I can open the fuel enrichener and the RPM’s will climb a bit, and I can also rev the bike and it’ll be for the most part responsive but not perfect. Once I close the enrichener the bike will idle perfect, but I can’t give it any throttle without it wanting to die. Taken accelerator pump apart and the diaphragm looks good, both ports are clear that go to it. I’m just freakin’ defeated I honestly don’t get what else to even look for. Most of the stuff I try and look at on this forum is either too old or not available anymore or the links are expired. I’ve watched YouTube vids of complete disassemblies and did everything they said and still just nothing. I just don’t get it, what am I missing? 😫
 

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Could be the ports on the accelerator pump cap. Had to clear the one that leads to the center with a little wire and convince it to vent. It's still just a touch boggy, so I'm going to follow some advice I got here. Disassemble my carb and clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with berrymans chem dip, soak the accelerator diaphragm in a wintergreen oil solution, and use a cap that I have in better condition but run it through the ultrasonic cleaner with the carb.
 

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Could be the ports on the accelerator pump cap. Had to clear the one that leads to the center with a little wire and convince it to vent. It's still just a touch boggy, so I'm going to follow some advice I got here. Disassemble my carb and clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with berrymans chem dip, soak the accelerator diaphragm in a wintergreen oil solution, and use a cap that I have in better condition but run it through the ultrasonic cleaner with the carb.
Done both of those, one port shoots in the carb freely, other port shoots out of that brass circle thing with the 4 concave ports on it. Feel like if I get an ultrasonic cleaner and Chem Dip and such I’d just be wasting my money and would have been better off just buying a brand new carb instead of rebuilds and cleaning solutions. I just don’t get what else I could be missing.
 

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Carb spray isn't aggressive enough to clean even a moderately dirty carb. As MaconMan77 posted, soaking the metal parts for an extended period (2-7 days) in Berryman Chem Dip, or running it through an ultrasonic cleaner is the best way to get a carb completely clean. Chem Dip can be purchased at Walmart and many auto parts stores for less than $30. Dirty carb is the major issue most folks face in getting their carb to operate well. There are many internal passages that must be clean for the carb to function properly. While a clean accelerator pump is a must, if those passages are dirty, it's not going to run properly. I believe the record number of soaking the metal parts in Chem Dip here on the forum is five. Can't remember how long that carb was soaked, but once clean the engine ran very well. I know it's discouraging to put so much time into it, but that's what it takes to get a clean carb. You can check around and see what a local shop would charge to clean it ultrasonically.

New carbs are expensive ($350), used ones usually need cleaning, and are currently selling for more than $200 on Ebay. I have a carb that has been ultrasonically cleaned and reconditioned which I would sell if you are interested. If your carb is complete, and would like to trade it for a clean one, that would significantly reduce the price. Let me know if you are interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Carb spray isn't aggressive enough to clean even a moderately dirty carb. As MaconMan77 posted, soaking the metal parts for an extended period (2-7 days) in Berryman Chem Dip, or running it through an ultrasonic cleaner is the best way to get a carb completely clean. Chem Dip can be purchased at Walmart and many auto parts stores for less than $30. Dirty carb is the major issue most folks face in getting their carb to operate well. I believe the record number of soaking the metal parts in Chem Dip here on the forum is five. Can't remember how long that carb was soaked, but once clean the engine ran very well. I know it's discouraging to put so much time into it, but that's what it takes to get a clean carb. You can check around and see what a local shop would charge to clean it ultrasonically.

New carbs are expensive ($350), used ones usually need cleaning, and are currently selling for more than $200 on Ebay. I have a carb that has been ultrasonically cleaned and reconditioned which I would sell if you are interested. If your carb is complete, and would like to trade it for a clean one, that would significantly reduce the price. Let me know if you are interested.
I usually just use carb cleaner more as a visual aid to make sure things are clear when spraying it with a little pressure rather than a cleaner.
Would the ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight be sufficient enough to do the job or is there a certain specs to look for in them? Or is there a better one around the same price that has a better rep than it you would recommend? Never had to use one before and looks decently priced there, maybe I’ll bite the bullet 🤔
 

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I've bought two pre-owned, American made ultrasonic cleaners from Ebay. I prefer US made cleaners, such as Bronson, over the Chinese made cleaners because they are more reliable IMO. Used the first one to clean many carbs before it failed. Think the Harbor Freight cleaner is a little pricey for what you get, but it does come with a 90 day warranty. Here's a used Chinese cleaner for a decent price on Ebay: 6L Electric Ultrasonic Cleaner Machine 304SS with Digital Timer &Heater Preenex | eBay A 6L cleaner would allow you to clean the entire carb at one time. Not sure the Harbor Freight model is large enough to do that, but you could clean the carb in increments, and do the entire carb over several installments.

An easy test to see if an ultrasonic cleaner is working is to fil the tank to the designated level, usually within 1" of the top, turn it on, and place a small piece of aluminum foil in the tank. Within a few minutes, there should be many tiny holes in the foil. No holes means it's not working.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've bought two pre-owned, American made ultrasonic cleaners from Ebay. I prefer US made cleaners, such as Bronson, over the Chinese made cleaners because they are more reliable IMO. Used the first one to clean many carbs before it failed. Think the Harbor Freight cleaner is a little pricey for what you get, but it does come with a 90 day warranty. Here's a used Chinese cleaner for a decent price on Ebay: 6L Electric Ultrasonic Cleaner Machine 304SS with Digital Timer &Heater Preenex | eBay A 6L cleaner would allow you to clean the entire carb at one time. Not sure the Harbor Freight model is large enough to do that, but you could clean the carb in increments, and do the entire carb over several installments.

An easy test to see if an ultrasonic cleaner is working is to fil the tank to the designated level, usually within 1" of the top, turn it on, and place a small piece of aluminum foil in the tank. Within a few minutes, there should be many tiny holes in the foil. No holes means it's not working.
Guess I’ll take the plunge and buy one and report back in like a week hopefully with some positive results 😞
 

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Just a suggestion : did you check your coils ?
I encountered the problem you describe with a past Honda Goldwing (picture 4 carbs that have to be impeccably clean)... taken apart, cleaned, back together and in the bike like 5 or 6 times... new jets all arround, new seals... still not working right...
Cranking was ok, idling was ok... could rev up to around 2000rpm and that's it...
Someone suggested to me that my coils were maybe the culprit... a small crack in the housing or just going bad and you loose the good electricity to the spark plugs when you need it the most...
Took apart the coils and sure enough i found a tiny crack in one of the coils... changed all 4 and my bike was running like a rabid dog ....
Just food for thought
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just a suggestion : did you check your coils ?
I encountered the problem you describe with a past Honda Goldwing (picture 4 carbs that have to be impeccably clean)... taken apart, cleaned, back together and in the bike like 5 or 6 times... new jets all arround, new seals... still not working right...
Cranking was ok, idling was ok... could rev up to around 2000rpm and that's it...
Someone suggested to me that my coils were maybe the culprit... a small crack in the housing or just going bad and you loose the good electricity to the spark plugs when you need it the most...
Took apart the coils and sure enough i found a tiny crack in one of the coils... changed all 4 and my bike was running like a rabid dog ....
Just food for thought
As much as I’ve seen/heard/read about something like that being an issue in other scenarios with different machines over the years of me reading about problems on forums for other personal fixes or just for the heck of it, I’m still slightly more inclined to think it’s a dang carb issue rather than a spark issue. But a spark issue will be part of the pool of next steps I dabble in once I feel like the odds have changed over to another area and I’ve exhausted all suggested carb related fixes that seem to mostly be the likely culprit
 

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Hey there...
Just so you know :
I got this 250cc Rebel for my wife last week...
1987 ... 40 something K miles.. been sitting for almost a year...
Came back home with the bike..
New battery.. new spark plugs .. drained the old gas ... put some fresh mixed with Seafoam...
Choke all the way... Clic.. start..Vroom ... I'm already glad it starts at the first try...let it go up in temp.. there's flat spots everywhere... misfiring... a little rich smoke...
Go for a quick ride around the neighborhood... can't go over 35 mph... and when I try to shut off the choke it stalls ...
So off the carb goes... brake cleaner... let it soak overnight..
Today more cleaning... put it back together and in the bike ...
This thing is running like a rabbit !
Conclusion ... strongly believe that your problem is SOMEWHERE ELSE... even more so than yesterday...
Peace..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Soooo flitecontrol nailed it!! Thanks!!! I got my ultrasonic cleaner in the mail today and ended up letting the carb soak in increasing heated water/purple power mixture for a total of 2.5 hours and it solved the issue with it dying out when I gave it gas!!
Now I have to figure out the next issue, it appears I am running quite rich and I can’t keep the bike to run too nicely without it dying out. Couldn’t really rev things up and tweak much because it was midnight, but there’s def something funky happening because I’m blowing out a bit of black smoke and just smells of rich smoke and I can’t really keep it running happy.
Sucks because in my prior attempts to fix it I replaced some parts hoping it would solve my issue: idle jet I believe (the recessed one), the diaphragm with needle on it, float and float needle, and also drilled the a/f mixture screw and blank out and replaced it with an adjustable one. Only things I didn’t put back to original were the float and needle because I was having an issue with the old setup flooding, and also the a/f screw because the old one’s trashed from being drilled out. Still didn’t help the new issue so far.
 

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occasionally the needle jet is installed upside down which will cause flooding.

110155


Edit:
Needle jet and needle needs to be replaced as a set..
Keyster carb kit needles and associated jet are different than oem..
on the left is oem, right is keyster kit needle. note diameter and taper difference..

110156
 

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Discussion Starter #14
occasionally the needle jet is installed upside down which will cause flooding.

View attachment 110155

Edit:
Needle jet and needle needs to be replaced as a set..
Keyster carb kit needles and associated jet are different than oem..
on the left is oem, right is keyster kit needle. note diameter and taper difference..

View attachment 110156
Yeah I’m back to the originals on those now and didn’t have an issue before my carb got plugged up so I’m hoping they wouldn’t be my issue at this time
 

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Verify the needle jet is inserted as Soaked Karma instructed. If it's upside down, the engine will start and run, but bog down upon acceleration. I like to use all the OEM parts that are in good condition.
 

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Verify the needle jet is inserted as Soaked Karma instructed. If it's upside down, the engine will start and run, but bog down upon acceleration. I like to use all the OEM parts that are in good condition.
From my experience and knowledge, yes you are right.
The OEM carb parts prove to be perfect for 250's and 450's.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
From my experience and knowledge, yes you are right.
The OEM carb parts prove to be perfect for 250's and 450's.
I’ve never removed that piece before.
Verify the needle jet is inserted as Soaked Karma instructed. If it's upside down, the engine will start and run, but bog down upon acceleration. I like to use all the OEM parts that are in good condition.
Hmmm I’ll check that next, but it’s not a part that I ever removed/replaced. I took off the main jet and idle jet (I believe they’re called), the 2 that you can unscrew from inside the bowl area, but didn’t touch that needle jet thingy. I think that was in my rebuilt kit I got but never actually did anything with it because I didn’t even know how to remove the old one. Only new things I now have installed are a float/float needle, and new air fuel mixture screw/spring/washer/o-ring that’s 2.25 turns out, which I’m hoping isn’t causing this new issue. Gonna try tweaking it in a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
occasionally the needle jet is installed upside down which will cause flooding.

View attachment 110155

Edit:
Needle jet and needle needs to be replaced as a set..
Keyster carb kit needles and associated jet are different than oem..
on the left is oem, right is keyster kit needle. note diameter and taper difference..

View attachment 110156
Wowwww would you believe me if I told you the needle seat fell out during the one of the multiple ultrasonic cleans I did, and then proceeded to fall down the drain hole of the machine so I didn’t even see it at the bottom. I thought that was sort of a press fit item too I have no idea how it even came out 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️
 

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Sometimes they come out during cleaning, and sometimes they don't. Glad you found it. The carb will definitely run better with it in place.
 

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Wowwww would you believe me if I told you the needle seat fell out during the one of the multiple ultrasonic cleans I did, and then proceeded to fall down the drain hole of the machine so I didn’t even see it at the bottom. I thought that was sort of a press fit item too I have no idea how it even came out 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️
I had a 450 two years ago and found a needle jet in the air filter box. 🤦🏻‍♂️
 
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