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my bars seem to be loose and wont tighten from the bolts on the triple tree..im thinkin the rubber bushings on top and bottom are finished..anyone know the name of them?
 

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According to my parts fiche]

RUB, HANDLE CUSHION
53133-385-000 004 $4.15
 

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my bars seem to be loose and wont tighten from the bolts on the triple tree..im thinkin the rubber bushings on top and bottom are finished..anyone know the name of them?
Rubber bushings are there to allow some movement which absorbs vibration to keep the nerves in your your hands from being damaged . If Honda had wanted the bars rigid they would have mounted them rigidly. Don't tighten them up.
 

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the bars wiggle about 3/4 of an inch back and forth im sure the bushings r toast
I don't think mine wiggle at all and I'm being advised to loosen mine so that it will move up and down about an inch to decrease vibrations.

Could anyone clarify, should the handle bar move vertically up and down or horizontally forward and back?
 

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The bars are supposed to move about that much whether its up and down or fore and aft.
You are pushing the handlebar risers back and forth on their rubber bushes. Do not try to tighten them so they are rigid. You will transmit brutal vibrations to your hands to the point where nerve damage can result. I like mine rigged quite loose so the rubber can soak up the worst of the vibes. Strangely enough the looseness of the bars is not a problem once underway, and the bike handles fine like that. My old BMW K100 had a very similar handlebar damping system.
 

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i tried to loosen the nut but mine were rusted on. didn't realize until the soft aluminum nut began denting by the monkey wrench. monkey wrench couldn't fit very well.

ended up riding to nc as is. will do new thread on my travels.

hands and feet feelin mildly buzzed.
 

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Awaiting Impact Driver to tackle riser bolts

Everyone who works on bikes should have a hand impact driver to avoid buggering the heads of various fasteners. Impact Screwdriver Set with Case
I looked at the Harbor Freight and Tekton and went with Tekton. Cost double but higher reviews, and since I live 30 minutes from Harbor Freight while Tekton is being shipped to Home Depot 2 min away, worked out better.

I did see that the plastic square pieces in the center of the handle bar get in the way of allowing me to use anything that goes all around the nut. I'm hoping it will not be too difficult to remove the plastic parts to clear the space around the nut, otherwise the impact driver will not be useful.

Question, why all the use of these aluminum nuts/screws and chrome instead of stainless steel for everything? Less/no rusting with stainless steel...heavier?
 

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If you are referring to the "chrome" plastic nut covers, use a sharp pocket knife or single edge razor blade to lift them off. They remove easily.

Haven't come across aluminum nuts and screws, but I assume the reason steel is used is because the Rebel is a low-budget bike and it's cheaper (and stronger) than stainless.
 

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No, it's the large black square rubber that is attached to the handle bar and behind the headlight. When I try to access the riser self lock nuts, one side of the nut is inaccessible because it's too close to this rubber cover. Looks like a cover to hold a lot of the wiring.
 

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Ah, the front junction box.
 

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Ah, the front junction box.
Yes probably. Did anyone else who has loosened their selflock nuts run into this issue or am I just using the wrong tool? I can use an open wrench (or a small monkey wrench) to try and turn the nut, but since it is rusted on and the metal of the nut is giving, I need to use the impact driver (which means I'll have to remove the junction box part).

I'll follow the Haynes directions for removing the junction box, just hope it's not going to be a big hassle.
 

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I was going to use a ratchet but the socket wouldn't fit on the nut because of the junction box partly covering the nut towards the front of the bike.
 

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Some penetrating fluid and time may help loosen things up. Liquid Wrench outperformed PB Blaster in tests.
 

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Some penetrating fluid and time may help loosen things up. Liquid Wrench outperformed PB Blaster in tests.
since the impact wrench will be another week, i tried spraying some liquid wrench penetrating oil on the nuts. if it works with a monkey wrench, it would be great. =)
 

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Please don't use a "monkey wrench" on your bike. It will just chew the nuts. You may just have to remove the junction box to do this job right using a socket or a box end wrench. that's a tough place to try to use an impact wrench.
 

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This is what I've been taught is a monkey wrench. Pipe wrenches have serrated jaws and will likely chew up the nut. Once you ruin it, it just plain looks ugly no matter how good the rest of the bike is.
 

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