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Good afternoon everyone, I am to believe my ‘86 450 rebel is not engaging gears properly making it in able to start. Me and my father tried push tarting my bike and turning it over in 1st but it just skids the back tire. Can anyone help on this situation? Also my gear shift pedal won’t shift properly sometimes.
 

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The bike needs to be moving in order to shift gears unless you happen to stop with the transmission gear teeth perfectly aligned, which isn't often. The bike should start in either neutral or any gear with the clutch lever pulled. Push starting is best done in second or third gear. There's too much resistance in first, and as you discovered, the tire slides. If the gearshift pedal shifts when the bike is moving but not when it's stationary, refer to the first sentence above. Lubricating the entire shift linkage, including the needle bearings in the front sprocket cover, makes shifting butter smooth unless there's some other issue. I use grease to lubricate the linkage.
 
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The bike needs to be moving in order to shift gears unless you happen to stop with the transmission gear teeth perfectly aligned, which isn't often. The bike should start in either neutral or any gear with the clutch lever pulled. Push starting is best done in second or third gear. There's too much resistance in first, and as you discovered, the tire slides. If the gearshift pedal shifts when the bike is moving but not when it's stationary, refer to the first sentence above. Lubricating the entire shift linkage, including the needle bearings in the front sprocket cover, makes shifting butter smooth unless there's some other issue. I use grease to lubricate the linkage.
Okay, thank you very much. See I’m a beginner with motorcycles (I’m also 16) so it’s all kinda new. Although I learn fast with looking things up and watching videos I’m still unaware of how the shifting gears and how the starter motor and all lines up on the inside. Is there any easy way to look at the gears and inside of the bike without pulling the engine apart? Just yesterday I looked under the right side cover but I’m still unsure if anything is even lined up.
 

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Without the engine running you should be able to press your shifter down gently while rolling the bike a few inches forward and or backward to downshift one gear at a time until you're in first gear. Then with the same little roll forward and or backward you can shift up into neutral where the bike will 'free wheel' so to speak, then you can shift up to 2nd and so on. It's different with the engine running, and you'll need to have the clutch disengaged, clutch lever pulled in, to shift but the roll forward/backward will not be needed, and it may CLUNK loudly into gear. Don't let that weird you out.

Hope this helps. Take lots of photos and videos, write down notes on paper.
You'll want to remember these times later on down the road. Oh, and find a place to download a copy of the Factory Service Manual, private message me if you need to know where.

You're only new to this once so enjoy the excitement.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Without the engine running you should be able to press your shifter down gently while rolling the bike a few inches forward and or backward to downshift one gear at a time until you're in first gear. Then with the same little roll forward and or backward you can shift up into neutral where the bike will 'free wheel' so to speak, then you can shift up to 2nd and so on. It's different with the engine running, and you'll need to have the clutch disengaged, clutch lever pulled in, to shift but the roll forward/backward will not be needed, and it may CLUNK loudly into gear. Don't let that weird you out.

Hope this helps. Take lots of photos and videos, write down notes on paper.
You'll want to remember these times later on down the road. Oh, and find a place to download a copy of the Factory Service Manual, private message me if you need to know where.

You're only new to this once so enjoy the excitement.
Thank you :) I have a service manual downloaded onto my phone. I’m not sure if it is factory but it’s helped a bit. Also thank you for the tips, I shall go try those ASAP and see if I can get it all working so I can then work on getting it ready for when I want to take my test.
 

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1986 CMX450 12k miles
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The bike needs to be moving in order to shift gears unless you happen to stop with the transmission gear teeth perfectly aligned, which isn't often. The bike should start in either neutral or any gear with the clutch lever pulled. Push starting is best done in second or third gear. There's too much resistance in first, and as you discovered, the tire slides. If the gearshift pedal shifts when the bike is moving but not when it's stationary, refer to the first sentence above. Lubricating the entire shift linkage, including the needle bearings in the front sprocket cover, makes shifting butter smooth unless there's some other issue. I use grease to lubricate the linkage.
Thanks for your helpful input. I bought a used 1986 CMX450 with 11k miles. Shifting can be hard sometimes so I want to pursue your recommendation to lubricate the shift linkage. Looking at the service manual, all the linkage seems to be behind the clutch, requiring the clutch be removed. My question is, can the shift linkage be lubricated without substantially disassembling the clutch and transmission?
 

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See this diagram for reference: 1986 Honda CMX450C A PEDAL | Cheap Cycle Parts The linkage I was referring to are the joints under the dust covers (part #5) and the shaft/pin/bolt the gearshift pedal (#3) rotates around. Not familiar with the 450, but the shift shaft on the 250 passes through the front sprocket cover which has needle bearings where the shaft goes through it. If the 450 has a similar setup, clean and lubricate those needle bearings too. There's no need to lubricate internal shift/transmission parts; they are lubricated by the engine oil.
 

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It is good to check all connections and make sure they are lubricated and secured properly. Clean and clear all debris and grease build up at the base of the shift rod that part #17 connects to, where it enters the engine. I know this sounds like it would not do much, but for some reason, it does. I can attest to improved shifting after cleaning the build up in this specific area. You can also adjust the lever at part #17.

Once all is checked, you should be able to pull the clutch and run through all the gears anytime with normal effort/force, running or not. A slight rocking, to engage (or relieve) stress on the trans linkage gears helps ease things.

Is your clutch adjusted properly to fully engage?
 

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Thanks both of you for the helpful input. Will definitely look into cleaning/lubricating the shaft. I did adjust the clutch, but away from fully engaging and more toward fully disengaging. Before adjusting, it took most of the lever travel before clutch would disengage. Now it does seem to fully engage, but there is less lever travel before it disengages. This did not seem to affect shifting.
 

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There should be 3/8" to 3/4"of movement at the end of the clutch lever before resistance is felt.
 

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By that you mean "takeup" when starting to disengage clutch, where the lever moves but there is not yet any resistance. I will check. I think right now there is just about zero.
 

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None would not be good, and could damage the clutch if left that way long enough.
 

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Thank you, I will look at it before next ride. It has only been ridden this way a couple of times, so I doubt there is any harm.
 

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the transmissions on the 450s or pretty much bullet proof check the oil level if it needs to be changed change it auto zone has the filter you will need the oil has a lot to do with trans not shifting i have been there
 
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