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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Brand new rider (900 miles & going up fast finishing my 3rd week of being licensed). I bought a 2008 Rebel 250 with 1200 miles on it, OEM build, no mods. Good deal, clean bike under $1700 - couldn't pass it up, bought it unridden by me as it was a lucky find in my area after returning from living in Germany. Nothing in my interactions with the owner & reasons for selling where on the up & up. Overall, my experience has been good with it.

Noticing an issue shifting from 2nd to 3rd and not sure if it is me, my steel toed boots or the Rebel as this is a pretty "busy" time in the ride (getting up to speed, turning off the blinkers, reorienting after a stop or turn or both, getting used to 4 points controlling (hands & feet), etc.)

This much I know, unlike every other gear shift which is crisp & obvious with a noticeable click heard & felt, 2nd to 3rd "misses" regularly. Let out the clutch, I'm still in 2nd. I get up to speed pretty quickly, not overly hesitant as a new driver to get going, but also don't have a death wish either.

My noob sense so far is I'm not pushing the recommended (as per the spedo markings for gears) "redline" on this gear shift, but as it's "busy" now, I'm not looking at the Spedo either. And my foot placement is a bit of an unknown here too... still a noob rider.

If I'm pushing it, I've noticed 3rd to 4th & 4th to 5th can tend to sync in the shift without requiring the entire clutch or only using a "light clutch". That's the same sensation as in my 5 speed Tacoma when the speed & gear shift is matching up. :)

I'd appreciate any feedback or thoughts... is this generally how the Rebel is, noob-rider issue, footwear, other ideas (or thread links to similar), clutch needs adjustment, etc.

I'm wanting to upgrade already to a new 500 :p and going to let my GF use this as her first bike too.

Thanks a lot!
 

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It could be a number of things. Cleaning and lubricating the shift linkage may help, but you may not be shifting properly due to the steel toes and the clearance between the boot and shifter. When shifting, before you pull in the clutch lever, apply slight upward pressure to the shifter, pull clutch lever, and keep the pressure on the shifter. Once the shifter has travelled fully upward, take all pressure off the shifter. This sets things up for the next shift, whether up or down.

If you aren't releasing the pressure on the shifter after going into second, it can't go to third.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Flitecontrol!

Was thinking (hoping) it was more user errors or footwear... didn't want to have to buy new footwear yet, but can see how the extra material in the steel toe & lack of "feel" could lead to me not letting the shifter return all the way to resting position. I guess new boots are next on the list.

Thanks for the response on the other post too. Wish there wasn't a completely different website/community for the new 2017+ Rebels. Guess I should move over to the intros thread now. :D
 

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Steel toes are for work, not riding motorcycles. Get yourself some proper boots if you plan to ride a motorcycle. The soles should be thin, (to make it easier to get under and over the shifter lever) the heel should be low, (to prevent snagging on the peg when putting a foot down) and the uppers should be stiff, but not hard, (so you can feel the shifter lever on the top of your foot). My idea of ideal motorcycle boots are of course the ones I am using at the moment in the middle of a 2 day 2400 km ride from New Brunswick to Tennessee. these are comfy and totally waterproof which is good when the rains start coming down. https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/alpinestars-web-gore-tex-boots?kclid=_kenshoo_clickid_

Not everyone does enough long distance riding to justify the expense of really good gear. ( I certainly did my apprenticeship of being cold and soaked over the years) but for reference, these are excellent boots.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
thanks Duckster.... agree with all your points. I went functional, quality & safety on helmet, jacket & gloves... working my way down. Wind stopping jeans will be next for cruising/general - not a fan of being cold. My old man's always worn pull-on cowboy boots for riding, so I'm still getting used to the idea of a motorcycle specific boot itself. To be fair, the steel toes are in an old pair of tree climbing/loggers boot, so closer to what you outline than a bulky work boot. Safe travels & enjoy your tour.
 

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A quick and easy to tell if it is the boots is a short ride around the neighborhood in sneakers, and don't try to do 'sync' shifting, give it a full clutch pull + rolling off the throttle then shift.


Only a little riding around the neighborhood please, at 25mph + a tad you should be in 4th gear and ride there. You need ankle protection from the hot case and exhaust pipes and the protection in case you go down. I've heard it best put by someone else here: "dress for the slide not the ride"



Something else to look at, you mentioned it had 1200 mi on the odometer when you bought it, so I wonder if the PO did the 600 mile oil change or decided to skip it once the decision to sell got lodged in the brain? I noticed a few improvements in my new-to-me rebel with 800 on the odometer when I got that first oil change done.
 

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Call out to hanshyde - what was the outcome of this situation? I’ve noticed almost the exact same thing just yesterday on my bike going between 2nd and 3rd. It has never happened before and I’m wondering if it’s my new boots (which seems weird to only happen between those gears) or another problem starting to rear it’s head. I’m interested to see your solution.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Call out to hanshyde - what was the outcome of this situation? I’ve noticed almost the exact same thing just yesterday on my bike going between 2nd and 3rd. It has never happened before and I’m wondering if it’s my new boots (which seems weird to only happen between those gears) or another problem starting to rear it’s head. I’m interested to see your solution.

Thanks!
Hey @wichitamsu... I would sum this up mostly as “operator error” & unexpected focus on something else (say a strange intersection) as well as a change in footware leading to different control/sensation in the ankle. I only have experience on my Rebel and a giant Harley with its noticable “clunk” shifting, unlike a much, much more sensitive Rebel shifter/shifting. 2nd to 3rd might just be the most “sensitive” of all the gear transitions.

I just had new rubber put on, so when I went for a short ride Thursday, I was so focused on trying to “feel” the difference, I found myself failing to shift (as above) on 2 occasions. It’s been quite a while & many miles since I last “experienced” it, but when it did happen there was something drawing my attention & focus (much greater than normal) to it instead of the shifting.
 

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Thanks! I recently bought new shoes and after paying closer attention I think my problem is the same as yours - just getting used to a different feel. I appreciate your wisdom!
 

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Hi guys

Im a new 2018 honda rebel 500 owner. This is my first bike and i love it. My only problem is that the manual says it is six speed but when i am on the highway and want to cruise at around 65, i try shifting to 6th but it feels as if it does not as if there aint no 6th. is it me or should the click be as obvious as the 1st 5.
 

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You start out in first gear. you shift up 5 times to get to sixth gear. When you are in sixth gear you cannot shift up anymore.
 

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Welcome. On a six speed bike, there should be five noticeable up shifts, with a corresponding decrease in rpms on every shift. On 1st through 5th, there will be some resistance to upward toe pressure on the shift pedal in between shifts. Once in 6th (or whatever is the top gear on any bike), you should be able to move the shift pedal up slightly with no resistance.

When riding and you aren't sure if you are in top gear or not, just try to lift the pedal with your toe without pulling the clutch lever. If it moves, you are in top gear.
 

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its normal to look for 'one more gear', I keep catching myself doing that.
 
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