The float valve is stuck. Remove the bottom of the carb (bowl) so you can access the float, pin, and valve. Check the float to see if it has gas in it. If it does, you will need to replace it. If you don't see any gas in the float, pour some gas in a clean container, immerse the float completely and hold it there for a minute or two. Look for bubbles. No bubbles = float is good. If the rebuild kit came with a float valve and you didn't use it, install it now. Check the float pin and be sure it is straight. Install the valve on the float and secure the float with the mounting pin. The float and pin should move freely and the valve should automatically center itself in its seat. If everything checks out, reinstall the removed parts. If things don't move easily, check the "wings" of the float where the pin slides through. Sometimes these get bent/misaligned and will interfere with proper movement of the float. Wouldn't hurt to polish the float valve seat while you have it apart if that hasn't been done. A Q-tip dipped in metal polish works well. Mounting the Q-tip in an electric drill speeds up the process.
FYI, I never use the replacement jets or other hardware unless the old ones are damaged or suspect. Just clean the old ones and reinstall. The replacement hardware, especially the needle jet and needle jet seat, often differ from the OEM parts.
Check to be sure gas hasn't made its way to the crankcase. If the oil level is too high and smalls of gasoline, drain and replace the oil before starting the engine. The oil level is checked with the bike level (not on side stand) and the dipstick unscrewed and just resting on the threads.